Of Wind, Water, & Wilderness
Bill Kuntze
We spot our first moose of the trip near the east end of Your Lake. The mature bull was dining amongst thick vegetation in the end of a small cove. Our approach to within forty yards was halted by a submerged log. After taking note of us, it decided to take a more comfortable stance behind a clump of alders. Your Lake has an attractive shoreline. There are numerous points and pockets, thick timber and tall grasses, a stark contrast of the granite grays of the lakes we have passed.
The portage into Fair Lake was overlooked as we paddle into the connecting creek, only to come up against the washed out remains of a five foot high beaver dam. A tree line had long since formed along its top, giving it the appearance of natural terrain. The dam has been replaced by two more, upstream and in view of the original. The entire south shoreline of Fair Lake has been redefined, the banks of the creek having now transformed into floating bog. The beaver house located above the second dam is among the largest I've ever seen.
Darkness settles from an overcast sky as we make the final portage into Badwater Lake. Out on the water, it is a joy paddling down a smooth flat corridor for the first time of the trip. Our goal becomes the marked campsite about midway down the four mile long lake. From a distance, we can see the campfire atop the 20 foot cliff and begin to contemplate an alternative. It is three quarters of a mile to the next site. Would it be occupied as well? Could we locate it in the dark, pitch dark? John was not in the least concerned. I think he was thoroughly enjoying the moment and enthusiastic about continuing on. I imagined him driving the canoe right up onto the portage landing at the far end of the lake. My doubts overcame me and I put a damper on John's plan, opting to pitch the tent on a narrow shelf of uneven ground at the waters edge. It was ten-thirty pm, drizzling, and the end of an eight hour paddle from Bentpine Lake.
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