FLP

Thanks for the report, the place sounds wonderful. Very well written and photographically documented!

The only problem I for see is talking A into going there! She is not overly fond of alligators!

M and A

FLP
Great trip post and love the photos!  I agree with Jimbo, almost makes it seem warmer up here in the north looking at that blue water and golden sand.  The Wilderness waterway appears to be much like what can be found on the west coast of Florida in the Charlotte Harbor to Sanibel areas and around Big Pine Key near Ft. Myers, where I have had an opportunity to paddle and camp on the little islands among the mangroves.  Have never had trouble with alligators but they are there, generally not large ones tho.  Great report!!  IC

Flp,

This is just what the doctor ordered to warm up the coldest weekend of the year up here in the Great White North!

Thanks for sharing.  This is the paddling alternative I should be looking into for our hard-water season! 

No hammock???

Jimbo   8)

Day 4 Watson’s Place

Rising at 5:00 Bruce and I start packing while eating cold cereal and drinking tea. We need to make an early start today, listening to the forecast last night we hear that the winds will be out of the east today with gust to 30 mph, not a good thing for today’s intended route. We will be crossing some large inland bays that are shallow and have a tendency to produce large pitching waves in high winds. As the sun peeks over the mangroves we bid farewell to Lostmans 5.
The first bay we cross is Platte Creek Bay that has 1 of the only 2 chickee’s (from the Seminole word for house) that survived hurricane Wilma. The chickee backs up against a small mangrove island and can be quite buggy in warm weather. Platte Creek chickee was constructed by a land company in the 1920’s as a refueling dock, it still stands after all these years.

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We cross the bay and start up the small streams that connects Platte Creek Bay and Dads Bay. Dads Bay is the smallest of all the bays that we will cross, maybe 600 acres in size we make the crossing in less than 15 minutes.

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Our next crossing will be that of Alligator Bay which is about a 2 mile crossing, as we exit Platte creek the wind begins to intensify out of the east and the water starts to churn, with my camera stowed in a small yellow Otter Box, it is then placed in a deck bag for safe keeping. I slide the bungee of the spray skirt around the coming of the cot pit and zip up my pfd for the trip across. Bruce starts out first and I watch him seeing that he is paddling harder on the down wind side of his kayak, I deploy the rudder and start off quartering the wind 45 minutes later we are across and now heading up a narrow canal that twist and turns through the mangroves some almost touching overhead. Last trip this way we saw a great number of alligators and today would be no different.

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Bruce and I had planed for an early lunch stop at Darwin’s Place. Darwin’s is located on a large shell mound on Possum Key, it was first settled by the Colusa Indians and followed by a number of white settlers. The first of the recorded settlers being Loren Brown who was a banana planter and later Arthur Darwin who was the last of the residents to live in the national park he died at the ripe old age of 112. The foundation of Darwin’s home is still visible on the cleared camp site.

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The Settlers of this area used readily available materials for the construction of their homes.

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After Lunch we push off for our last two bay crossing, Cannon Bay and Chevalier Bay which a connected by a short channel the two bays combined are over 3 miles wide and are now whipped to a fury by winds gusting to 30 mph. Bruce and I cross as quickly as we can.
We turn east into the Chatham River, here I am able to take advantage of the wind and deploy a hand held sail that makes my kayak skim across the water being pushed along by the wind being channeled down the river.
We are at Watson’s Place moments later.

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Once the home of the notorious Ed “Bloody” Watson, who operated a thriving sugar cane and vegetable farm on the Chatham River. Ed Watson as legend goes, was suspected to be the murder of Belle Starr and others. It was said that he had hired farmhands to help with the harvest, when payday came, he murder them and dumped their bodies in the river. After the hurricane of 1910, Watson traveled to the Smallwood Store on Chokoloskee Island for supplies he was greeted by vigilantes and a hail of bullets, shot 33 times his body buried on Rabbit Key.
The corner piece of this large open camping area is the remains of a cistern, syrup kettle and other farm machinery.

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With the camp set I started dinner tonight’s fair would be Sloppy Joes and cottage potatoes. We finished dinner and walked out onto the dock to enjoying a cup of Earl Grey with honey, while watching the sunset on the Chatham River.

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Ditto. Great report and what a wonderful place to paddle. Can't wait for my Keys trip...leave 1 month from today...

The Beaver

I am really enjoying your trip, flpaddler!

Day 3 Lostman’s Five

Last nights festivities take a toll on both Bruce and I, not crawling out of our tents till the sun was over the horizon. We had spent the night sitting around a beach fire doing shots of Jose and drinking hot apple cider laced with Black Seal Rum, there had been no one else camping on the beach so we can get a wee bit crazy without fear of disturbing anyone’s solitude.
This morning we are in no hurry, the tide had turned at 6:00 and there was 50 yards of mud flats, worm coral and oyster beds still exposed. Our plans called for us not to break camp until 10:00 so that we could take advantage of the incoming tide which would aide in negotiating Lostmans River. Today’s route will take us 4 miles back north along the coast and then 8 miles east up the river. The Lostmans River twists and turns through a maze of black mangroves with numerous shoals that offer many chances to spot wading birds and alligators that can be seen sunning themselves on the banks and shoals. (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
I break down my tent and stow my gear after putting water on to boil for our meager instant oatmeal breakfast and strong black coffee. By the time we are packed and have eaten our breakfast the tide had risen enough to float our kayaks and we line to deeper water. The morning breeze is out of the east and with today’s weather prediction calling for gust to 22 mph, partly cloudy skies, and temperatures in the mid to upper 70’s.
The 4 miles to the mouth of Lostmans River goes by quickly with the aide of the incoming tide, preparing to turn east into the river, I notice the remains of a cistern, which for the early inhabitants of the area was the sole source of fresh water, we consider the possibility of stopping to investigate, this would certainly put us off our schedule, so we decide to paddle on.
We enter the river now paddling east into the wind as it starts to pick up negating the effect of the incoming tide that had been pushing us along. It’s now noon so our attention turns to the subject of lunch and where we should stop. Bruce remembers a shoal that at high tide is only a few inches deep, we had stopped here 3 years ago to rest the shoal being only another mile and around a bend it is really the only place we could take lunch even if we had to sit in kayaks to eat.
Rounding the bend the shoal appears on river left and to our surprise is already occupied by some locals.
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Well after seeing these two we did the only thing that two insane paddlers could do, we got out for stretching and some noshing, the 5 footer entered the water with a splash and the 6 footer took his time checking us out to see if we would make an easy meal.
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I would never try this in the month of May which is the alligators mating season and they become very territorial.
After an interesting lunch and with only 4 miles to Lostmans Five our site for the night we push off. We arrive at Lostmans Five at 3:00 and start unloading the boats. Lostman Five was the sight of a boat landing that was operated by Poinciana Land Development Company, where in 1925, they would bring prospective buyers to see the area. In September of 1926, before they named hurricanes the area was struck by what would be known as the "Big Blow", packing winds of 150 mph, thus ending the grand idea for the Miami of the Gulf. 
Lostmans Five is protected from the wind on three sides by the thick mangroves forest and has a northwest view. The site is listed as an improved site having two raised platforms with an adjoining walkway each platform having enough room for a party of four. The site also offers a privy, 2 tables and a dock making this a favorite camping spot for the fishing guides who bring their customers in on flats boats to ply the inland waters.
Bruce grabs his fishing rod and heads up the Lostmans Five River for some more fishing and a little exploring. I decide to stay and have a look around the camp when poking around I spot an epiphyte or air plant in bloom it’s growing on a tree at the very edge of the camp near the bay.      
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An hour and a half passes before Bruce returns to camp with no fish in the creel. I set about preparing chicken quesadillas and fiesta rice for dinner. We finish dinner and Bruce cleans the dishes, while I go about preparing hot toddies for the two of us. We walk out onto the dock in a light breeze to watch the sunset over Lostmans Bay while enjoying the warm drinks. (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
Lingering on the dock as the stars start to appear in the clear cool moonless sky we talked of our next trip to Minnesota and Quetico.

Day 4 North to Watson’s Place

We are up at 5am this morning getting the camp broken down and gear stowed into the hatches of our kayaks. Tradition has it that our 1st breakfast in the backcountry consists of, what I call a heart attack on a roll (fried eggs, bacon, and cheese on a hard roll) washed down with strong black coffee prepared in a Nalgene Bottle using a French Press insert. This was suppose to be the last of our fresh food for the next 5 days, relying on prepared meals that I dehydrated. As we eat the sun is rising over the mangroves and a glassy gulf. By 7:00 we are ready to make a short 25’ drag across the mud flats and are in the kayaks 15 minutes later paddling against a slight sea breeze. With day time temperatures predicted to be in the low 70’s and winds out of the east gusting to 25 mph we are trying to make as much distance this morning as possible, there is nothing like paddling a small craft in pitching seas.
Today’s paddle will take us south along the coast 15 miles to Highland Beach which is known for its several miles of white sand beaches. Highland Beach was settled in the 1880’s where the inhabitants would harvest the wild growing royal palms that now decorate the byways of Ft. Myers. The harvested royal palms were moved on roads that were cut through the thick jungle. (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
Passing between Turkey Key and New Turkey Key I spot a pod of dolphin working the shoals between the two Keys, they appear to be paying no attention to our progress until one of the dolphins pops up along side of my kayak and we make eye contact, what incredible animals they are.
I turn to watch Bruce as he stops, pulls out his fishing rod and starts working the calm water over the shoal where the dolphins had been. I have moved out of the protection of Turkey Key into the  shifting wind which is now out the east and gaining strength, I continue on the next 5 miles on my own to Hog Key where we are to meet for lunch. Two years ago we spent the night here and were awaken by the grunts of feral hogs that this key is named for. (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
After an hour has past I begin to get a little concerned until I spot this yellow speck on the water rounding the peninsula, as Bruce grows closer I see that he is wearing a smile from ear to ear. I yell out to him asking him where he’s been and he produces a stringer with three sea trout from 15 to 20 inches.
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I guess there will be fish for dinner tonight!
After lunch we continue a 7 miles paddle south to Highland where we make land fall around 3:00, and set camp. Bruce and I set off to explore the beach where Bruce discovers an antique bottle intact, one of those bottles that use a cork top to seal it. I find the beach covered with deer tracks and tracks of those ever present raccoons. The raccoons of the gulf are well known to travelers there for pilfering of food and especially fresh water which is in short supply. Visitors to this area should take special care of their water supply raccoons have been known to puncture soft sided water containers to get to the contents.
Upon returning to camp I go about the chore of preparing Bruce’s catch for dinner, while he gathers wood for our evening fire. The filets of sea trout is seasoned with lemon pepper and blackened in olive oil and margarine, the fish is served up with reconstituted hominy and string beans. We eat and watch a magnificent gulf sunset.
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Tomorrow we are off to Lost Mans 5.

Keep it comin' FLP

On Saturday the 21st of January I picked my long time paddling and backpacking partner Bruce up at Palm Beach International Airport. We reminisced about past adventures, and talked of trips to come on our way back to my home in Port St. Lucie, Florida.
For the next two days we would check our gear for duplication, do our shopping, dry our meals and plan our 1st, 2nd, and 3rd choice of routes through the 10,000 Islands area / Wilderness Waterway.
Tuesday morning we were up at 4:00 am and on the road heading south at 4:30 for the three hour drive to Everglades City. The most interesting part of the drive is turning west to cross the Everglades on the 4 lane highway known as Alligator Alley. The River of Grass is absolutely breath taking, when bathed in the early morning golden light. Traveling across this highway brought back fond memories of my youth as a Boy Scout and traveling then the two lane highway flanked by canals on our way to Big Cypress for a weekend camping trip.
Everglades City is the northern most jumping off point for the 100 mile long Wilderness Waterway and the location of the Gulf Coast Visitors Center where you file your trip plans and pay your fees. Unlike traveling the BW of Quetico they allow no reservations and everything must be done in person. Arriving at the Visitors Center at 7:30 a half hour prior to their opening and only one party ahead of us gave us a good chance for getting our primary route choice. To my surprise our choice for the 1st nights stop was booked as was the 2nd, so we resorted to our 3rd choice which would take us to Mormon Key an eighteen mile paddle. After paying our party usage fee of $10.00, and a camping fee of $2.00 a night each, we headed to the Ivey House to pick up Bruce’s rental and do some gift shopping for the families. There was no real rush because we planed on catching the high slack tide at 11:00 from the Ivey Houses private launch area and use the out going tide to push us out into the Gulf of Mexico about a 10 mile paddle.
Unlike most of our trips we stuck right to our schedule and took our first strokes at 11:00 in the slack tide down the canal under the bridge and out into Chokoloskee Bay.  We cross the bay and take the last cut out. As you entered the cuts that will take you out into the Gulf of Mexico you need to be very careful keeping your eye on the mangrove keys and your map it is very easy to get disoriented if you are not familiar with the area.
Our 1st stop will be Turtle Key at the very edge of the gulf, Turtle is a non designated camping area but is perfect spot for lunch with its sandy beach.
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After lunch we still have another 8.5 miles of paddling to reach Mormon Key which will take us over two four mile sections open gulf water into a 14 mph head wind.
We finally make land fall at Mormon Key just before 5:00, and have the beach to ourselves. Mormon Key got its name from the first known white settler Richard Hamilton and one of his two wives who settled there in the late 1800’s. We get busy setting camp, and I start dinner of caramelized onions, brazed pork chops, Cuban black beans and jasmine rice, while Bruce finds firewood.
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After dinner we enjoy a platy around a beach fire and talk of tomorrows paddle to Highland Beach.
flp