This is 1 pound almost exactly (at least when they are dry ):
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These are the pulleys I think I used and I thought they were expensive but I knew what a pain cast pulleys were. Back story: We used 69 cent cast pulleys where I worked specifically because they did NOT spin very well so our counterbalance was not critical. The guy that tried these quickly switched back to cast - so I got freebies!:
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The top rope is poly and the pulling rope is nylon - 50' of each I think. The big rope is nice on the hands, never tangles and most importantly, it fits the pulleys I have. If I were to switch to smaller dia. rope, I'd also need new pulleys since it could easily foul and lock up between the wheel thingy and the frame when using rope the pulley wasn't designed for. Separating the top two keeps the ropes apart so there's no drag although I invariably need to raise my pack a foot and spin it to separate them at the start.

I made my setup in my basement one winter and as luck would have it, haven't changed a thing since. Even used it today to hoist my snow blower to it's summer home atop the garage rafters. (Winter is now officially over eh? Whoo hoo!) Anyway that sucker is a lot heavier than a foodpack for six.

The other thing to keep in mind is you don't want the top rope tight. At least I don't. I want some play so that when the trees start swaying in a storm my pack doesn't come crashing down. There's got to be serious force involved with that so I choose to avoid it with slack.

fyi

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the link above is for the outfit that I bought the kite line from - $22 for 500' right now - that is cheaper than the other sites I looked at -

  I use the two rope method for the tree hanging rope, seems easier too me as well, and allows for Azalea's modification.
  I remember Mad Mat's recommendation about using a lighter heave line in case you snag, and had that in mind when I contemplated the switch to the Dacron line.  I still think I'll keep the 1/4" for the haul rope, easier on the hands.  If you don't have the 3 pulley set-up, and your hoisting a heavy food pack, you owe yourself too make the switch. Even a small person, with minimal effort can easily lift 90# with ease.
Thanks for info on Dacron kite line

"I'm thinking of trying to use some of that 1/8 braided Dacron rope they sell at Cooke or Piragis outdoor. Holds 450 lbs and weighs .05 oz for 80 ft."

That's more or less what I use - it is  1/8" Dacron Kite line - 500# test
does not seem to stretch.    Color is white, so easy to see.    

just google for kite supplies and lots of online dealers should pop up


edit - my notes say my rope kit and pulley weighs 11.2 oz.  I use two ropes to go from pulley in center to each of two trees - easier to throw and coil two seperate ropes as compared to one longer rope (note: I use a lighter heaving line to get up over the branches - I'd never break that 500# line if it got stuck); a third rope runs through the pulley to hoist with - gloves do help with the small diameter line.  I get away with a single pulley when solo - my food for this year weighs 16# 5oz for 12 days - add in the pack and I'm still only hoisting 17# 3.6 oz max at the start of the trip. If I go with my brother, and double the weight, I'll often use the same setup, or may add two more pulleys.

the dacron line knots ok, but it won't knot as tightly as stretchier nylon line.

I use the same type pulleys as dd. I bought mine at a sailing shop, about $12 each. I use the 1/4 rope for both the tree and pack lifting rope. My set-up is a little different, as I use the Modification Azalea recommended. It just allows you to keep pack closer to one of the two tree's to eliminate almost all of the line sag.
I'm thinking of trying to use some of that 1/8 braided Dacron rope they sell at Cooke or Piragis outdoor. Holds 450 lbs and weighs .05 oz for 80 ft. Has reflective cord in it, so should make for some cool night time effects.  Supposedly is stiff enough for easy knot tying. I figure that for tree rope and keep the 1/4 for pack haul rope. Anyone have any experience with  the Dacron guy line rope?  Overkill weight wise, but would lighten the kit significantly IF practical?

DD, those pulleys look alot more efficient than the ones I'm using and are probably worth the extra cost. The weak link in my system is the efficiency of the pulleys.

Kingfisher wrote on May 11^th, 2009 at 12:26am:

I also use a 3-pulley system what weighs in at 1 lb 6 oz.  My system utilizes 3 (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links).  They are quite a bit more expensive (I found the one's I use for about 1/2 the price listed in the link), but they have numerous advantages:  (a) light weight, (b) efficiency rating of about 86%, (c) split ring design--just split and insert the rope--no need to string, and (d) carrying capacity ~ 22.2 kn (5000 lbs).  To this I add a light weight caribiner to hold the split rings in place and form connecting to the rope and/or pack(s).  The 'biners are the weak link in the system at a carrying capacity of 150 lbs.  Finally, I use two 50 foot lengths of 1/4 inch braided nylon rope (in orange, so I don't accidentally run into them or leave them behind).  The pulleys will handling up to 1/2 inch rope, but I find this to be overkill.

Rope #1 (tree rope) has two overhand loop/knots about 3 feet apart in the middle of rope.  One pulley is caribinered to each loop.  Rope #2 (hoist rope) is tied to food pack, then run through one of the tree rope pulleys, back down to a 'bindered pulley attached to the pack, then back to pulley #2 on the tree rope.  

At this point the tree rope is hoisted ... most often between two trees with an open span between.  Once lashed down at each end, they you are free to hoist away.  You need to make allowances for the amount of sag in the tree rope due to degree of tautness in the line and tree diameter.

I've hoisted 80-90 pounds by myself with this system.  If you want to hand hoist, gloves are recommended, but just as often, I just make belay-like loop around my body and walk back to the tie-off tree.  Lowering is a one-hand job, with excellent control.  Oh, BTW.  When you untie your pack from the hoist line, you'll need to add weight to the line ... the pulleys are so efficient that the hoist line will quick run through the pulleys and wind up on the ground.  I carry the pulleys/biners in a small mesh bag.  I just add a rock to the bag and tie that to the end of the hoist line to avoid the "quick getaway."  However, the "slippery" nature of the lines also makes for a remarkably quick take down when you are breaking camp.   However, I'd make sure that at least one line is running through a tree pulley to pull the tree line down from the middle, after untying both ends.  (No point getting a pulley hung up in the tree.)

No pinch, no bind, no twist with this system.

I'll typically use two trees because of the infrequency of finding a substantial single limb at the right height that is free from obstruction.  All you have to find on two trees is a 1-2 inch diameter limb or stob that proves sufficient purchase against the tree for the rope.  In other words, they don't have to be pointed away from the weight on the line.  Even stobs with a sufficient upward angle between the trees can be used because the force on the line will be downward.

dd

I tried the everlast pulleys that Magic references but had too much trouble with rolling and twisting. As a result, I reverted to a cheap cast pulley set that will not overrun. I did have to do some lube and run in to make them run smoothly but after I did they work pretty good. Out of the package they are fairly rough and may need some attention but at the price (about $4 each ) they are worth the effort. If you have a grinder with a wire wheel you can run in a set of cheap cast pulleys with a little lube and a run on the wire wheel. In an extreme case try a little abrasive rubbing compound to get them smoothed out.

The cast pulleys are heavier and gravity helps them find the proper orientation when lifting a load that is their biggest advantage. The plastic everlast pulleys run smoother but they tend to twist and turn too much. They take an extreme amount of attention to keep them running true.

I am  using parachute cord for all of my rope.  I used the everlast #70 pulley. You can see a picture here.
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links); I use about 7 inch of ½ inch PVC pipe between the two top pulleys.  Today was the first day I put it up and lifted any thing.  I only had about 35 lb hanging from it but it worked well.  Care must be taken when putting it up  and taking it down to keep from tangling the ropes. If one of the ropes was a different color it would make it easer to set up. If you let the rope roll over the side of the pulley it will get pinched between the side and the wheel.  These pulleys roll very easy and will more than hold the weight and once every thing is straight and you have weight on then they stay straight but having the rope pinched over the edge of the pulley should be avoided.

BrownTrout01 wrote on May 10^th, 2009 at 5:50pm:


Magic and I discussed this at some length with Magic's engineering and physics experience teaching me quite a bit. As a result of our campfire classroom I reworked my bear hanging kit to come in at 1.4 lbs and a tested weight limit of 90 lbs. It uses a double pulley and a single pulley, 100 feet of 1/4" and 100 feet of 3/16" poly braid. Needless to say you need gloves to hoist 90 lbs with this type of cord. But it works and has more than halved the weight of my food hanging kit.
Thanks Magic.