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Topic Summary - Displaying 8 post(s). Click here to show all
Posted by: db
Posted on: Jul 4th, 2010 at 9:18pm
I added a ~3/16" rock guard to my paddle a few years ago. It never had one so before that I'd just add a small amount of epoxy to the tip every few years whenever it started getting fuzzy. Doing it to last a while was pretty easy and didn't take long. Worth it IMO.

It was cleaned w/ denatured alcohol and roughened it up a bit with sandpaper. Then I made a little dam out of aluminum foil and maybe some clay (maybe gum?) so that a rock guard of sorts would be created by pouring quick set 2 part epoxy in the 'mold'. (The blade was at a slight angle above flat to favor a tip.)

Once it cured I just filed and sanded away what didn't belong. If you were really anal about it, you could use progressively finer grits and it could be clear. My paddle is not very pretty though so I was more than happy w/ functional.

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It's held up well. I used the quick set hardware store stuff. It's meant to be sacrificial anyway and I think it sands better for a tip.
Posted by: ubbenholdthekraut
Posted on: Jul 3rd, 2010 at 9:14am
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Thanks Joe.

I had no idea about the spar varnish/ UV light issues.

I'd be pissed if my paddle turned milky!

Posted by: Joe_Schmeaux
Posted on: Jul 2nd, 2010 at 10:11pm
I'm not familiar with the Parks brand, but normal epoxy (like West system, not 5-minute epoxy) starts to stiffen up and become harder to work with after about 30 minutes, though that does depend on room (garage) temperature. A full cure typically takes 24-48 hours, but it should tell you that in the instructions.

After the 24-48 hours, then you can sand it down (it's not that bad) and apply the first of a few coats of spar varnish. UV light will cause epoxy to turn milky with time, and you don't want that.

Forget the mold idea. If the epoxy starts to flow a bit after you apply it, you can just turn the paddle over to get it to flow the other way. It's only half an hour til it gets too viscous to flow, if that.

You might be able to get fibreglass cloth at HomeDepot or places like that, or try auto parts stores. Even Canadian Tire if you're desparate.

A couple of other suggestions:

Make sure you are wearing clothes that you are willing to trash if you get epoxy on them.

Don't take the safety instructions lightly, especially regarding eye protection. I have been told that flushing your eyes with acetone to get epoxy out is not fun.

If you're tempted to add more hardener than the directions say to get the epoxy to cure faster, don't. The 1:1 ratio (or whatever the directions say) needs to be followed exactly.

You probably have an inventory of stuff around the house that needs fixing with epoxy. Make a list and do them all at once with whatever epoxy is left over from the paddle.

Paddlemaker, I for one would be interested in benefiting from your knowledge and experience. Any chance of making some or all of your PM public?
Posted by: Preacher
Posted on: Jul 2nd, 2010 at 5:27pm
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Read the instructions for cure time.  Anything I say is a blind guess, so anywhere from 30 seconds to 30 years.

No idea where in your area to buy the supplies.  I go to a local marine store.  Google.

Many paddles come with an epoxy/resin tip.  Manufacturers have all the skill & jigs & tools & experience for this sort of thing.  I've no idea where to start to do it like that.
Posted by: ubbenholdthekraut
Posted on: Jul 2nd, 2010 at 4:50pm
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Thanks preacher.  Good tips.

The strip of fiberglass- can you get a strip at any arts and crafts supply store?

How long can you work with the epoxy before it gets cures?

I was thinking about a using some type of mold to contain the epoxy at the bottom of the paddle, but I like the idea of using a strip of fiberglass. 

Thanks for your response.
Posted by: Preacher
Posted on: Jul 2nd, 2010 at 4:25pm
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I've done similar things to paddles using epoxy, splits in laminate & wood.  Epoxy sucks for sanding, so apply sparingly.  A little goes a long way.  Use the scraper, not a brush.

I like the West System kits that come with ketchup packets of epoxy & everything you need for a job like this.  The 101-6 from the below link.
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You might consider a strip of fibreglass along the paddle tip for extra durability.  If you do this, really soak the glass and then squish as much out as you can.  Clean up before it hardens.

Let the epoxy cure fully before putting any varnish on.  You can get amine blush.  Spar varnish, marine varnish.  If you go to a sailing shop they'll want to sell you white, not sure you want white so be specific if you want a clear finish.
Posted by: paddlemaker
Posted on: Jul 2nd, 2010 at 3:13am
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I sent you a PM.

Welcome to the forum!
Posted by: ubbenholdthekraut
Posted on: Jul 2nd, 2010 at 2:24am
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I have a Moody bent shaft paddle that I bought over 12 yrs. ago. I think it was made up near Atikokan in Quetico.   It is beginning to see some wear and tear. Especially along the bottom.

I just bought a two part clear epoxy from home depot. It's like a clear acrylic epoxy.

The brand name is Parks. A similar product is pour-on. 

Anybody have any experience with this product or with re-sealing a paddle?

Any tips or technique advice would be appreciated. It appears that I better apply it with some confidence or I might screw up my most treasured possession.

Also- can it be sanded if I over applied?

Thanks in advance.
 
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