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Posted by: mastertangler Posted on: Oct 8th, 2010 at 6:32pm
Hey Amigos I suppose there is an infinite number of ways to hold a fish rod and I have probably used most of them......forked stick, pvc, clamp ons etc.
I have found true love at long last. (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) Tough as nails and lightweight. Totally adjustable. The rod is easy in and easy out. Quick safety latch if so desired. It's quiet. What makes it better than the rest however (if what I've stated isn't enough) is how it pops your rod off your gunnels a good 8 inches or so. This allows for extra clearance for paddling....very nice. (I can have it a smidge closer for easier access than I would with a different model.) Plus an extra added adjustment option......not only can I have the rod angled back I can also have it angled slightly down if I wish.
I use the sidemount and have a mounting bracket on each side of my boat. The only negative is you must drill 2 holes into the gunnel to mount the bases. No bigey.....
Kenny, There is no need to "feel" a bite when you are trolling. In fact if you have the "trap" set right there is no need to react quickly at all. I often watch a hooked fish for several seconds to size him up. We can talk about "setting the trap" next week.
Posted by: jaximus Posted on: Oct 8th, 2010 at 4:48pm
i use a rod holder very similar to that one that you have pictured in the first picture. basically just an adjustable tube from scotty. i got around the mounting issue with those mounts by bolting the mount to a small board 9"x2.5"x3/4". (i used a piece of the green pressure treated lumber that resists water damage as well) this way the mount has stability. i then got industrial velcro (2" wide) and made 2 straps for the board. i mounted them toward the ends of the board so they would hold the board solidly. then i velcro the board to the crossbars in the canoe. my group rents canoes because we are younger and cant afford our own canoes yet.
this velcro setup really is nice because it holds super strong. i can lift the whole canoe by only grabbing my rod holder, not that i would suggest doing that though. my father has a small woodworking shop so i used a router to round off the corners of the board and countersunk all the bolts. i then used contact cement to mount non-slip rubber to the bottom of the board to create a noise reducing and solid grip for the rod holder. then i spray painted the whole thing so it looks professional. the velcro makes it super easy to move around and even change canoes if a buddy wanted to troll and i didnt want to.
by using a adjustable plastic rod holder like the ones from scotty you have a lot of options as to the angle of your rod. to avoid the loss of line tension when you take the rod out of the holder, i always angle the rod forward and make sure it is out the side of the canoe that i am paddling on. this way i can lean forward and pull the rod out and keep the tension and (i use a baitcaster) spin the star-hub drag tighter. then i pump the rod a couple times to ensure the hooks are set solid and go from there.
also the adjustable plastic rod holders just twist and lift to come out of the mounts. i leave the board strapped to the canoe on portages and just toss the rod holder in my pack so it doesnt hang in the way.
Posted by: Kenny B Posted on: Oct 4th, 2010 at 5:20pm
I actually bought two of the clamp on types, very portable. I think made my a different manufacturer but I will check. I did not see them on the Cabela web site so I just went with one that was close to mine. We used them on a fishing boat in Eagle Lake Ontario. Almost lost one when it dropped into the lake (was accidentally kicked overboard)... but we managed to fish it out. I would suggest using a little tie on string in case of mishaps. Nice thing about the clamp on, you can take it off when you portage or not mount when you are just traveling between lakes.
My main concern was not being able to "feel" a hit like you might do if the rod was in you lap. And it takes a bit more of a reach sometimes to grab the rod while in a boat, maybe not in a canoe.
Posted by: Ranger Posted on: Oct 4th, 2010 at 4:57pm
The problem with that model is the mounting issue. Try this one:
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The Scotty's work fine - I use two mounted on a board with my fishfinder for fishing close to home. For carry in the BW/Q, where portages are involved, I would use the Rod Sentry.
Posted by: PhantomJug Posted on: Oct 4th, 2010 at 4:26pm
I use one but with the clamp on feature. I like to run the shoreline right at the drop off line. I mount the the holder on the outboard side, so I can keep the lure in the drop-off.
I set my drag so the line won't spill out with the drag of the lure, but a bite or snag won't jerk it our of the holder. I mount it so I can see the reel with my peripheral vision. When I see it turn or rod get a little bend, I'll grab the rod and see what's going on.
Nice thing is that with the quick draw feature, you keep tension on the line when you remove rod from holder. Important with barbless lures.
I rent a canoe, so the clamp-on was the obvious choice. When I buy my own canoe, I'll mount a deck mount on each side of seat. Quicker and easier than clamping and un-clamping.
Posted by: Kenny B Posted on: Oct 4th, 2010 at 1:29pm
Has anyone ever brought something like this into BWCA for fishing from a canoe? I think it might be nice that you can paddle with your rod trolling a lure. But not sure if you can really feel a hit.
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