"Do those who have tugeye type holes use them as everyday painter locations or just for special situations like lining? Do you revert to the grab handles so you don't have to untie and retie for every portage?"

"As Preacher already mentioned, a bowline is great when stressed but that ease of untying makes it better suited for temporary situations like actually using the tugeye. It's not a tie it and forget it knot. What I think works better for painter to handle is a fixed loop used as a larks head. Easy on easy off and I find folding causes far less tangles than coiling."

I keep the painters on the boat until I'm done with the trip - if the boat has a tugey or if I've tied to the carry handle.  I've never bothered to do the bungee cord thru the deckplate thing - all I do is make a skein coil of the painter for portaging - a short coil, maybe 10" or so long, and it dangles from the bow maybe a foot or so (I don't use a painter on the stern for lake tripping).  So far, haven't had any issues with it catching on anything.

I have never had any of my bowline knots untie.  I agree that just a bowline can come undone easily, which is one of its better features, but I always have a tail long enough to tie a double fisherman's knot around the loop made by the bowline, as a safety/backup knot.  No way that will ever come undone til I want it to ( and I've tied it that way hundreds of times in climbing anchors, and the occasional use of a "bowline on  a coil" for a tie-in)

When most of your solo trips are with a tandem canoe, you line more than most I guess.

I agree that for lining something closer to the waterline is preferable. I (basically) just wrap the painter around the boat on the down stream end. That leaves a rope on the bottom of the hull but it's tight to it and I'm more comfortable with that than the tippy aspect. For the upstream rope I just use the grab handle. That's the finesse line anyway.

Do those who have tugeye type holes use them as everyday painter locations or just for special situations like lining? Do you revert to the grab handles so you don't have to untie and retie for every portage?

As Preacher already mentioned, a bowline is great when stressed but that ease of untying makes it better suited for temporary situations like actually using the tugeye. It's not a tie it and forget it knot. What I think works better for painter to handle is a fixed loop used as a larks head. Easy on easy off and I find folding causes far less tangles than coiling.

I use my painters a lot. I'd be uncomfortable w/o them. At put-ins I'll at least toss one up on shore so if my boat somehow gets away from me as I'm loading, the rope gives me 20 feet of second chances.

Quote:


McMaster Carr, now that is a hardware store.

This is what I used.

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

Perko through hull bilge fitting. I used a flat rubber washer to seal it. Fitting-rubber washer-hull-rubber washer-locking nut. I used surgical tubing to connect the two fittings inside the hull. It is flexible and self sealing on the fitting barbs.

3.50 per fitting 20 cents per washer. Not a whole lot less than what the kit costs.

I also use the clear plastic tube around the the whole rope loop. Much easier on the hands and my fishing hooks / lure hooks don't get caught in bare rope. (nothing worse than having 3 of your beat lures hanging from the front of your boat when it comes tome to set up camp)

Quote:


Mmmm ... that's troubling to hear.  Why do you think what happened to the tugeye set up won't happen to your new system? - it seems like except for the flanges it's pretty much the same thing.

The Tug-eye was pulling out of my Robroy.  It was installed between the hull and the deck and over the years it had created a slot which was approaching the front of the boat.  I drilled a hole that a G-10 tubing like the one listed below would fit in.
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)  and search for 8527K152
I let it stick out each side about 1/8 inch.  I then cut two 1.5 square inch of 1/16 G-10 sheets (Actually a old PC board) and then drilled holes in the center of then for the pipe.  I then epoxied then to the hull over the pipes.  When the epoxy had set I filed the tubes down until they were almost flush with the G-10 plates.  A little paint and it is water tight and stronger than original.

marlin55388 wrote on Jan 11^th, 2011 at 6:35pm:


No doubt, Marlin, this could be done more cheaply.  A piece of 1/2" PVC pipe would do the trick glued with something like 3M Urethane Adhesive. But the Tugeye system will likely give a much cleaner, more professional looking finish.  From my perspective, if I'm going to make this kind of modification to a $3000 canoe I don't mind spending 25 bucks to ensure a clean job.

I think if I was just paddling in Quetico I might not bother installing these Tugeyes and just tie off on the lifting thwarts but as I'm getting more adventurous and heading into Wabakimi, Woodland Caribou and other such venues  I feel like I need to be as well prepared as possible for unforseen situations.

The notion that running a painter at the bow above the water line would somehow obstruct the canoe's ability to cut cleanly through the water seems a bit far fetched.  I mean it might make a difference but I doubt that it could be detected except by the most subtle instrumentation.  Naturally if the painter is hanging out in the water it would be problematic but I'm assuming that anyone that goes to the trouble to install a Tugeye type set up would have created some kind of bungee holder in the deck that would keep the painter clear and collected.

marlin55388 wrote on Jan 11^th, 2011 at 6:35pm:


I think most people go to Home Depot if they don't have the pipe. And depending on the canoe getting vinylester or epoxy would be the big thing (Imean finding it) for how little you'd need. I don't think it would be good placed down to low like in the water, but just above the waterline should be good enough. To high does contribute to less manuverability and possible capsize. I never worried about it. The whole lining thing is a skill needed if your doing rivers and the BW and Q have portages in most places anyway. Solo canoes might be another story. I think it would be to tippy no matter where the line was. I do the wet foot thing where I might line a tandem if I couldn't portage. Especially after hearing DD's experiances this past year.

I have run both no painter boats and boats with painters that are high in the shear; never dumped a boat on a "tug"...I also have played around with a adhesives in boats only to learn that sooner than later they fail because of the dissimilar qualities invovled and the oxidation processes...

If an apparatus for getting the painters is below the waterline in the shear; which they say is the best place for a painters because of center of gravity concerns...they it will leak....I dont think a boat manufacturer will install them during the lay up process because of the hassle and weigh factors, even though that would be IMHO the most durable and would actually strengthen the stem and shear at the waterline-a more appropriate whitewater concern.

Seem like a bit of money, X 2, for the "tougheyes"....I wonder what  Macgyver would do; especially if he wanted to "lock" that composite boat. Chop matt and resin is pretty cheep and I know most good hardware stores have a decent selection of trim grommets. Just sayin

grizzlylarso wrote on Jan 11^th, 2011 at 6:03pm:

Until you need it.  Then perhaps you need it in the same way you may need a spare paddle.  Instantly.

If all one ever does is fairweather flatwater paddling then they only really need it when not paddling.

I know of two people who didn't tie their canoe up and it was blown away stranding the paddlers.