Rocky Mountain Canoe Club had 13 boats in the water over the weekend going on the Niobrara River east of Valentine, Nebraska. Very scenic; very different from the typical "desert canyon" we encounter west of the Rockies. First two days, 22 miles or so of beginner river with a single class I rapids. Ended the second day immediately above the only class III, then put in the third day just below the class III--the club had a second trip going the same memorial day weekend that was a lot more challenging, and so this Niobrara trip was advertised not to include class IIIs. Anyhow, a few class IIs the third day; the trip leader "encouraged" me not to do the third day, because of my limited river-paddling experience. Several others excused themselves from the third day--either because they had to get back to work or because they did not want to tackle class IIs.
This place was green and beautiful--certainly did not mesh with my prejudices about Nebraska, based only on a couple visits to Offutt Air Force Base near Omaha and driving on I-80. Numerous small waterfalls entering right onto the river, and some bigger ones only a five or ten minute walk from the river. Only problem was we were against a pretty strong wind the entire second day, and I paddled against it solo the whole 11 miles. Not bad for a 70-year-old!
We camped each night at Smith Falls State Park; nice campsite along the river. Lush green grass. No hookups, so avoided much of the nonsense you can encounter in a camper/RV campground. Almost everyone in the campsite was in tents.
Am told that in only a couple weeks, extending for the entire summer, this place becomes much less desirable with all sorts of folks descending on it for tubing and short, open plastic kayaks. And lots of college age kids turning it into some sort of variant of Spring break. So when you do it, they said, if you want a peaceful river experience, then go early (Memorial Day and before), or after school starts again.
This river, by the way, is fed by the Ogallala aquifer and so maintains a fairly steady level all year round. Is not dependent on melting snow in the rockies. No mosquitos to speak of--lots of bats keep them under control. Highly recommended. Lots of commercial places will rent you a canoe, if you are in the area without your canoe. Definitely worth a two-day delay in your trip across Nebraska; add a third day if your river skills can deal with class II rapids. If you are there also without camping equipment, there are plenty of motels and cabins in the area.
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