I can't say what brand of fish finder is a good deal for the money as this fall trip was my first time with one.

The Humminbird 165 which I go for around $80 seemed to be a good deal for a bare bones/low power consuming unit. I read a lot of reviews on-line and the best reviews for a economy unit seemed to be between the Lowrance and Humminbird.

Fans/critics of both brands. Reminded me of the Chevy/Ford truck people. I guess whatever works great for you, you stick with.

I did read about multiple ways to mount the transducer and most mentioned what MP said about the operating in air. Since I was borrowing a canoe, I needed a way that was easy/ secure, but easily removable?

I did a little McGyvering before I left and came up with my own take on the problem.
I bought a 16 oz screw type plastic food container, I made sure to get one with a FLAT bottom not an oval one.
My transducer fit perfectly, but I wanted it to lay flat ( mine is Triangle shape). I drilled a hole in the side of container about 1/2 below the threads and then cut a slit from rim to hole. Hole was just a little smaller than transducer cable. I put transducer in container and pushed the cable down thru slit until it was in hole.
I wanted to make sure puck laid flat so I cut a piece of close cell foam to fit the inside the container and cut a slit in that to fit the transducer cable.

When I screw lid on the foam compresses and lock the puck tight to the bottom of container.
I read about people using water bags to transmit so I filled the container with water before I screwed lid on.

To secure to bow of canoe right next to front bulkhead, I brought a small tube of waterproof bathroom silicone caulk. the kind that says sealer/adhesive. As soon as I landed in camp on Cirrus, I unlade packs and mounted plastic container.

I put a generous bead around the base of container and a X across the bottom. I positioned it and put a big flat rock on top and went to set camp. About 45 minutes later it was secure enough to put transducer in ad foam plug/water and put top on.

I worked perfectly, and stayed secure over the portages.
I used Velcro straps I had for bundling computer cables/ Bungee Bobs and a few cable ties to secure the excess cable.
To mount the unit, I used a 12" Arno cam type strap and just secured between portage yokes pads.
On portages, I loosened strap and let is swivel down and re-secured. No problem at all.

When I left park, I took my little personal knife and just cut around silicone, removed puck container and the silicone just pulled off like old caulk would.

Here's some pics. Not bad for first attempt.

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About a month ago, I had to replace the transducer on my CLC 200 Vexilar.  I spoke with a person at Vexilar.  He said to hold the transducer next to your ear.  If you can't hear anything it is probably a bad transducer.  I held my old transducer to my ear and heard nothing.  When I got the new transducer, the clicks were easily heard.  With the new transducer, the unit works as good as new.
Westwood

I use the older style 1101 bottomline fishing buddy.I use it mostly for fall fishing. My unit uses 3-c batteries and will last all week. Thats fishing 10 to 12 hours a day. The only problem i have ever had with this unit is when you are moving they will shake or wobble. The cure for that is cut the tube off and use a suction cup mount like most people have gone to. I just made a plastic collar that goes around the tube holding it tight to the mount and cured the problem. If this unit shows fish they are there.

Old Salt wrote on Sep 21^st, 2014 at 1:00am:


Not yet; I've only been home a week or so. The transducer mounts to a bracket - via a little nut & bolt - that holds the suction cup. My plan would be to replace that bracket with the float. I'm thinking a square of wood with a bit of foam glued to the back. I don't think it'd have to be very big, maybe 3" square. It'll take some testing in the pond to make sure that it floats ok. And now that I'm thinking about it, maybe a canoe shape would be best to track better (so it's not rolling around) while trolling… haven't gotten that far ahead yet.

I'll post pics when I make a prototype. 

Ranger, I would be interested in seeing your plan for a floating transducer. Got pics? Thanks.

FWIW, I have a Hummingbird Piranha too and I'd recommend them. Runs on 8AA batteries and reasonably compact. My only issue this year was that the suction cup would fall off the hull of the boat. I suspect that this was due to an old suction cup and a kevlar rental boat with plenty of hull scratches. One of my winter projects is going to be making a floating transducer mount, so that it can float alongside the boat instead of sticking to the hull.

Ranger

I was told that if you let the transducer operate in air there is no place for the energy to go so it damages the transducer. I do not think shooting through the hull hurts as long as the space between the transducer and the hull is filled with a material that will transmit the energy well and the hull is made out of a material that will transmit the energy (not foam core).
I think it was KF that recommended the X-4 although I like it also.

Wally13 wrote on Sep 20^th, 2014 at 3:39pm:


I had no idea about short shelf life either. Makes me think it might make sense to pack a spare transducer. Maybe I'll buy two.

Old Salt,

Picked up a Lowrance X-4 per Magicpaddlers recommendation. It is cheap $80, has all the bells and whistles and most importantly does not use a lot of power to function. It performed flawlessly shooting thru the hull of my Magic on my Saganagons solo this summer.

I had no idea that transducers can have such a short shelf life. I have 2 older Eagle portable units that must be over 15 years old and the older style "puck" transducers still work well. Maybe its is the newer style "skimmer" transducers that poop out after a few years.

That sounds like what mine was doing so maybe it is transducer.

Any chance shooting through a kevlar hull shortens life expectancy of transducer???