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Topic Summary - Displaying 10 post(s). Click here to show all
Posted by: Jimbo
Posted on: Mar 30th, 2016 at 1:48pm
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Jim J -

Thanks for the info.  Several months ago someone at Yakima told me about a year ago that something like that "might be coming along in a couple years."  I guess it's already here.

I'm not sure if I'll be jumping on this right away.  My plans & equipment needs for 2016 paddling are still a bit sketchy.

Many thanks!

Jimbo   Cool
Posted by: Jim J Solo
Posted on: Mar 30th, 2016 at 1:33pm
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Jimbo, We have a new Outback too. I met the Yakima rep at our local shop and he said they now have a "landing pad" that fits the factory racks mounting points. Seems you remove the factory crossbars and the landing pads drop into the same mounting holes as the factory bars. Then you can use a tower to hold crossbars that can extend wide enough for more than one boat.

I tried to find a link, but their website isn't helping. Probably best if you call customer contact.. Good luck and let me know as we'll be doing the same soon. For now my Forester is working well.
Posted by: pine_knot
Posted on: Jan 24th, 2016 at 3:20am
We recently purchased a 2016 Outback with the factory racks (Got a great price near dealer invoice).  This past week, I visited our local Great Miami Outfitters which is similar to Rutabaga but a bit smaller.  I called to see if they had any Yakima Mighty Mounts or something similar that could work with the Outback factory racks. They said they've some and possible other options as well.  So I stopped by.

Anyway, the guy who was their expert on canoe racks/transporting suggested the Thule 819 Canoe Portage Carrier system: 

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

They are sort of like the Yakima gunwale brackets but a little wider and able to adapt to most oblong shaped racks.  So we spent about 10 minutes in front of the store putting one of them on and the fit was almost perfect for the Outback racks.  Almost froze my hands and butt due to a near zero wind chill.  The best Amazon price was $109 which the outfitter matched.  Picked the up today and also bought one spare bracket as well.

For my plans, these should work very nicely.  If I need to carry two canoes, my Rapdifire can actually nest inside by Northwind for travel.  Can't wait for my trips this spring/summer/fall.

Also just received approval from my boss at school (and at home) to attend Canoecopia....looking forward to seeing many of you again.

May want to start a new thread, but I was wondering of any of you has canoed in Temagami area north of Sudbury or Lake Superior Provincial Park a couple hours west of Sault Ste Marie.  Hope to hit each of these this year in addition to a trip to Quetico.

Cheers!
Posted by: Sturgeon_7
Posted on: Jan 24th, 2016 at 12:53am
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I had an outback and I ended up getting galvanized pipes and taping the clamping points so I could use my Yakima supports. It worked fine except for the inevitable head bumps.
Posted by: portage dog
Posted on: Dec 31st, 2014 at 3:25pm
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Here's another thought for someone with a newer vehicle that just doesn't have the desired between the bars spread you'd like for optimal loading.  If you have a hitch on the vehicle, consider a hitch mounted load bar vs. two on the roof.  Yakima has the Dry Dock, Thule -the Goal Post, Rhino Rack T-Loader.  Not the cheapest route, but could be your answer.  If you are or know a competent welded, make your own.  I have no experience with these, but the Yak looks most stable with the 'y' design.  Adding tie downs would help stablize potential side to side swaying.  I also found the MTN Gearsmith Heavy Duty Pickup Truck Bed Hitch Mounted Extension Extender Rack Ladder Canoe Boat for $89 on line, could work, but looks heavier, less adjustable.  Worth thinking about - FWIW.

pd
Posted by: HighnDry
Posted on: Dec 30th, 2014 at 10:46pm
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Jimbo,

I've used a Yakima rack with 66 in bars with my Subaru. Sold the Subaru and now use it on my Matrix. Have also used it on my wife's Prius. I put a Champlain and a cargo box which worked well. I can extend by picking up a pair of aluminum conduit bars at Menard's and cutting to 72in which is my second system when the other one is in use.

This gives me two systems that I can leave on each car for the summer.

You just have to watch your head when you duck into/get out of each care  Shocked
Posted by: Jimbo
Posted on: Dec 25th, 2014 at 5:02pm
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Those are outstanding words-to-the-wise, Jim J!  Will do & thanks.

Merry Christmas, all!

Jimbo   Cool
Posted by: Jim J Solo
Posted on: Dec 25th, 2014 at 4:24pm
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Jimbo, You're right about the cars' inside space. Two tandems, means 4 people and their gear too. Not many cars can do that either, without using a trailer too. I've always tried to be able to do that, so I've used minivans or crossover vehicles, but think my hosting newbees days are over.

Be nice to Nancy. IMO your decorum is your super power.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Years.
Posted by: Jimbo
Posted on: Dec 24th, 2014 at 7:31pm
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The problem is the nature of the roof rack on the Outbacks.  As MagicPaddler pointed out, there is only about 18 inches of "open" space on either side for the purpose of lashing down 2X4's or a pre-fab store-bought product (at what I agree are exorbitant prices).  Jim J is right; I'd likely have to have a Subaru rack guy (or some other specialist) do some "customizing" in order to obtain the necessary spread between the front and back bars (or 2X4's).  I can't think of a good way to clamp down 2X4's to the closed ends of the parallel roof racks.

I'm not exactly sure what the point is of "closing off" side racks on the Outback and leaving but 18 inches width of open space.  It would seem to limit functionality of the rack system.  Nevertheless, I'm sure there must be some rhyme or reason to it.

Jimbo   Cool
Posted by: azalea
Posted on: Dec 24th, 2014 at 7:07pm
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Quote:
Anyway, I may be down to building a home system using 2 X 4's - which is fine, I guess


To me, this is like saying there is a functionally ideal solution which would cost less than $25 but is there a commercial product I can buy for $150 that will do the same thing but not quite as well.

Buy  one 2x4x8 and cut into 2 pieces of about 4' (make the exact length you need, get a 10' 2x4 if needed).  Buy 6 eyebolts. Drill holes at ends and center of the 2x4s and insert eyebolts.  Buy 4 lashing straps.  Whenever you want to transport canoes, attach 2x4s to rack with lashing straps. (Options: Make an angle cut across front of 2x4s to lessen wind resistance. Paint the 2x4s, or decorate in some fashion. Wrap bicycle padding tape, or something similar,  around base of eyebolt to create a bumper between canoe and eyebolt.).

What can a store bought system give you that makes for a better solution?
 
   ^Top