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Boundary Waters / Quetico Discussion Forums >> Strictly Gear - Gear specific reviews and ideas. >> Wenonah Kevlar Repair
https://quietjourney.com/community/YABB.cgi?num=1241387035 Message started by GeoFisher on May 3rd, 2009 at 9:43pm |
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Title: Re: Wenonah Kevlar Repair Post by marlin55388 on May 4th, 2009 at 2:52am
Hi Geof... :) Nothing that I saw in your photos looked that bad.....#7 looks a little suspect of a stress but not a bad one. Little sand with 600-400 grit should give you the mechanical bond that you are looking for.....topical only. You can cover only up to the waterline if that is where the sustainal damage or scratches are or go above....its really up to you-the smaller amount of west that you apply to the boat the less weigh you will PU-minor at best. If there is fuzz that you can feel on those deeper scratches use a disposible razor and give them a shave....wetting b4 maybe be necessary but try dry first.....Back to the stress issue-----look inside the hull and look for those white halos around the deeper stratches....those are stresses....the next level of damage beyond a stress is basically a hole/tear/or crack that runs through all the layers of the lamination of the hull. They're straight forward to fix----if you can sand and make mac-n-cheese you can fix a hole or stress, but you will need a repair kit-wenonah dealers should have these-I know that Bell does but i am not sure about the compatiblity of the resins between the two manufacturers....ANYONE? Wear rubber gloves and carbon mask-the resins are not good for you...and a sharp SHARP sissors for cutting the textiles whether it is glass or kev....glass is more appropriate.....Do all your preping and check all your fit before you mix your resin pot. Prep: sand, cleaning, cleaning-EtOH work pretty good-masking if appropriate-cutting the lamination material, and check it all again.....Mix pot----resin area-appli fabric-resin carefully-----roller or brush...your choice...Me Brushes that's it......dont use to much resin and use enough----very similar to painting-to much=runs/excess weight.....not enough its to dry-the idea is to saturate the fibers (all) in the lamination textile-because once the resin kicks all the way there is really no way to saturate them-dry lam is not as strong and a wet lam is heavy.....but a good lam oh my ;)..., This patch gig is done on the inside of the hull and on the the outside....just follow the instructions. The resins for the laminations are different than West-they are kicked with peroxide and strong oxidizer that is to be done in a well ventilated area.....dont do it in your house or attached garage :)Remeber to that on a really hot day the pot life of the resin is shorter and I have seen pots start to smoke from the heat generate on a hot day-burning resin is not KOOL :-/ The West thing is a walk in the park-pretty tame.....those mini rollers short knap would be what i would use.....the thing about West is that it has somewhat of a tendacy to run.....think on that a little and play with it you will come to see what i mean....dont alter recipe ...just teach yourself how the West behaves. The other thing that I have experienced is that the West system has a ton of UV inhibitors in it-----simply a fading /cosmetic issue.....If you dont fix you will have water migrate into the kelvar and repair will be more diffecult....A stitch in time saves NINE ;D
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