OK........I was told to use 105 / 205........whatever the HELL that is....   :-/  :-/


I guess this stuff sets up pretty quickly.......so I need some other ideas.

1).  Is that the stuff I should be using.......if not WHAT.

2).  Are their other options.  I've read a little on west's website, but I'd like opinions from those who have done it.

I'm headed out later today to get the stuff.......any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Geo

If you're in the TC's - I'd suggest you go over to Northwest Canoe and discuss with them. They sell cedar-strip building supplies and epoxy - and they do boat repair.  They'll point you in the right direction.

For West System - 105 is the resin , the 2.. is the hardner that turns the stuff into glue/solid.  There are different hardners for diff needs.

Recoating the bottom of a canoe isn't rocket science - but a really-quick curing epoxy might be hard to work with.

Thanks........

I was thinking the 205 is too fast...........I ended up getting both.....I figure I can use 205 to start with.....the "crack" repairing, and get a "feel" for how fast it will be.

After that, I figure if 205 is GOOD, I will finish up with 205, otherwise, I will move onto 206.

Thanks,

Geo

I use 105 which is the resin, and 206 which is the slower hardner.

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The push down plunger pumps you see in the link also meter the resin and hardner. One stroke resin, one stroke hardner, easy. Just leave the pumps on, nothing dries out. It's ready the next time.

GeoF, One nice thing about the slower hardner, it gives you time to have your panic attack and still recover enough to still do the right thing.  ;D

Work on a small cut or area. Build some confidence in what you're working with and the time it takes. Keep your batches of mix small. Give it time to cure. No rush.

If you think your job is making you nervous. One of may first experiences was I cut a hole in the bottom of a brand new never been wet racing canoe to install a Andersen Bailer. Talk about measure twice.

Don't even think that one of those bailers will work in tripping canoes. Hydrostatic pressure is exponential. Even a heavy slower race team can keep it from working right, let alone a tripping canoe full of gear.

thanks guys...........

I started the process.............and I'm quickly finding out even the not so deep scratches are causing the kevlar to stand up........

I'm thinking after I do the first coat, I will need to go over the canoe and check for "standers" and shave them off.

I understand now about "pot smoke"..........WOW...........10 minutes and I had a freakin smokin, burnin my damn hand mess...........   :)   :)

BUT.......it is started.

Later,

Geo

The 207 is the non yellowing form, it will stay gin clear.Geo try using the razor b4 you epoxy for the standing fibers. Please wear gloves so you dont become the hands on chemist ;) Good luck with your project.

Shave? Like with a cabinet scraper, safety blade or a Gillette Quatro?

Here's the West Marine options:
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Yikes that stuff is pricey! Honestly, a syringe of the half or one hour (whatever) epoxy will easily coat the entire bottom of a canoe. Use a margarine tub for a mixing pot ... comes right off when cured should you wish to reuse it.  ;)

If you have trouble with the cutting/shaving kevlar fibers? Remember you can just wet the fuzz with a small amount of epoxy and tape it down with clear box tape. After it hardens, remove the tape and do your larger area coats.

So........how long should the epoxy still be tacky.............

I did the coat about 24 hrs ago, but it is not completely setup..........

Fingerprints still set in the epoxy..........just wondering.

Outside temps have been 50 overnight and 65 high.........got to 80 today........


Thanks,

Geo

Oh no! You didn't use a slow hardener I hope!  ;)

If you mixed it up good and the leftover resin cured correctly don't worry. You put on a thin layer and so are at the mercy of cool nights. Give it a day or three ... set it out it out in the sun when you can.... Everything gets hard eventually.  ;D

I did the grip on my paddle in the basement one winter - took at least a week to cure.  :o


Doh! I meant to link to the other thread when I linked it to this one:
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It is the gillete type, b4 you coat the the boat with epoxy....b4 the "standers" stand up.....shave that boat it has whiskers ;)...you might have to sand again to free them up ;). The set time on the epoxy is being stretched out by the temps.....warm it up and it will go. Yes the west is expensive....but it is tough as H, has the UV, etc. Done the tape thing...IMHO it is easier to shave b4 the epoxy application. I have worked with this system a bunch with the paddles and boats. Did your pot set geof? If It did increase the temps and the epoxy on the hull will set.....If it did not you have a problem and a mess to clean up as you did not mix it correctly.....the slow can be slow when spread thin.....temperature decrease ;) Warm it up and walk away....she'll set. ;) The fast can be super fast depending on the day....have it to slow for your taste is a heck of a lot easier to deal with than having go to fast....gives to time to kick back and enjoy yourself and the work that you are doing ;)

marlin55388 wrote on May 8^th, 2009 at 12:20pm:

Did your pot set geof? If It did increase the temps and the epoxy on the hull will set.....If it did not you have a problem and a mess to clean up as you did not mix it correctly.....the slow can be slow when spread thin.....temperature decrease ;) Warm it up and walk away....she'll set. ;) The fast can be super fast depending on the day....have it to slow for your taste is a heck of a lot easier to deal with than having go to fast....gives to time to kick back and enjoy yourself and the work that you are doing ;)

I mixed 4 pots........and all 4 pots setup HARD................so I guess, I'm good, I just have never done this before, and it is driving me nuts.

It is a lot harder today, but still not quit as setup as I though it would be........

We're supposed to get some serious HEAT the next few days, so that should do it.

Thanks,

Geo

Geo....to coin an old phrase...."this thread is useless without pics"....post 'em please.

Here they are:

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I should have done this in ONE thread...........I SUCK  >:(

Later,

Geo

GeoFisher wrote on May 9^th, 2009 at 4:31am:

I should have done this in ONE thread.....

Personally, I like the two due to the descriptive titles.


db wrote on May 8^th, 2009 at 5:40am:

You put on a thin layer and so are at the mercy of cool nights.

Wow that looks thick! I'm surprised it took so long to cure.

Is that blushing or a reflection?

Now I understand about how much is too much...........

I stripped off the tape, and a LOT of epoxy along the edge came off also............

SO, Ive done some sanding on the edge, to remove the EXTRA, and reapplied a REALLY LIGHT coat............now the edge is barely noticable......

I only did this on a small patch near the back of the canoe.........Now that I know that will work, I've got some more work.......

Oh well..........LIVE and LEARN.

Later,

Geo

Yep there is a learning curve with the west, but you you got the playing with it in.....LOOKS GOOD! ;) The epoxy pulled due to the lack of sanding to the edge...try fineline/edging tape next time and the edge will not be so thick as it is when using masking/painters tape. :)