Just bought an old boat trailer for $150 and I'm looking to convert it over to a canoe trailer.  I need to get it set up with a box for gear and a couple of canoe racks with room for 4 canoes.  The box, I can do.  Canoe racks, maybe not so much.

As far as the canoe racks, seems to me welding them would be the best way to go.  Anyone know any good welders with reasonable pricing in the Twin Cities (preferably west-side or south side) or is there anyone out there with welding skills looking to make a few bucks?

Snow_Dog wrote on May 9^th, 2010 at 11:15am:

As far as the canoe racks, seems to me welding them would be the best way to go.  Anyone know any good welders with reasonable pricing in the Twin Cities (preferably west-side or south side) or is there anyone out there with welding skills looking to make a few bucks?

I had good luck with Truck Utilities, 2370 English Street, Maplewood, MN‎.  
(651) 484-3305‎  

They fabricated and welded a 15' extension to the tongue of my trailer.  (I converted a utility trailer to a canoe trailer.)  I used wood to build the canoe racks on my trailer, but if you want metal ones, I'd check with them.  They're good to deal with.  

prouboy

You may want to consider stainless steel....no paint or up keep ever...more money up front less money/solvents/supplies down the road....Ohsborg in Belle Plain, plenty of smaller shops in the country with good pricing. Stainless can be stick welded with the right rod, know and any welding friends the materials could be picked up at Discount Steel in Mpls with that special welding friend. No.. aluminium.... cracks at stress points over the long haul. Just my 2 cents

Or treated lumber & hardware...

Old Salt wrote on May 13^th, 2010 at 1:28pm:

Or treated lumber & hardware...

In my experiance with treated lumber, when I was building houses, it doesn't do anything but warp and twist. I would stick to metal IMHO.

 Another possible option, is have your local steel supplier/fabricator, cut your steel square stock to your specs. Use this paint to rustproof the steel, then clamp. drill and bolt with Stainless bolts and nuts, the kind with the nylon lock washer built in. Then just touch up any spots you may have missed.

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Follow the prep directions too the letter. This stuff is like ceramic when hardened. Not cheap, but will last a lifetime if applied correctly.

My wood canoe racks are doing fine, and quite sturdy.  I covered them with indoor/outdoor carpeting.  See picture.  

I know, I know, some of you have seen this before... but it's relevant to the discussion!

prouboy

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Fastnall for the hardware....they have a locations on west side. It's where the local hardware stores get there's from. You buy by by the box, more money less per piece. Check pricing its been awhile.
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Solotripper- hows does the stuff hold up with UV?

If you decide to go the drill and fastener method in Stainless...buy extra drill bits and use a cutting solution to cool bit...and dont over torque the stainless hardware it will fail...think no stretch because it dont as much as standard steel hardware.

I wish I could put you on to the individual who sprayed the bed liner but they don't provide the service any longer...running it side by side with another similar product but the bed liner is a proprietary product not available any longer...bomber stuff :'(

I agree with Android in regard to the treated lumber....Oak paints up nice...and the "rock hard" coating that solo spoke of with a UV safe top coat might be long term too. Siwek in Belle Plain or Timm's in Lindale would be local sources and I believe they can cut and surface for a price...Timm's is a smaller outfit, nice guy-he might have Douglas Fir drops available-strong for lighter weight and a little better rot resistance...but that will not matter to much if all sides are pre-finished; mind the holes too.

Pick your media and acknowledge your abilities/tool limitations/and the lifetime of the creation that you are after. ;) Forever?

Puckster wrote on May 13^th, 2010 at 5:56pm:

My wood canoe racks are doing fine, and quite sturdy.  I covered them with indoor/outdoor carpeting.  See picture.   I know, I know, some of you have seen this before... but it's relevant to the discussion! prouboy

I have seen this gem before....Sawbill parking lot last year. ;)

Quote:

Solotripper- hows does the stuff hold up with UV?

The website explains it better than I can, but the quick answer is that IF the area is exposed to the sun, you need a top-coat dressing over the Por-15, which will take care of the UV problem.

You need to use the materials they sell to prep metal, then Por-15 and top coat as called for. I'd use the semi-gloss chassis top coat on the trailer.
My brother turned me on to this stuff. A friend of his uses it for restoring cars from the frame up. He ( my brother's friend) was skeptical at first. He bought the little starter kit, and painted a chink of rusty scrap metal.
After it had cured, he tried every solvent that would dissolve/ruin normal paint. Nothing worked. To clean it off, he had to sandblast it !
They caution you to wear latex gloves and avoid contact on skin. Once it dries, only time will remove it :o  They sell cheap disposable brushes, it's not worth trying to clean good ones.

They make a fire resistant paint manifold paint and other specialty products for marine/home/auto.  They have a wheel dressing that comes in a can. Unlike the stuff from the auto stores, this will last ALL summer and look like brand knew.

I highly recommend it. Buy a starter kit, and see for yourself.

Thanks for the ideas, guys.  Looks like I have some good options to check into now.