Day 1:  July 7th (The Entry)

I started today at the Super 8 Motel in Kenora, Ontario, having cleared the border crossing at Pembia, ND the previous afternoon without much ado.  The drive from the border takes you north to the southern edge of Winnipeg before you swing east on Canada HWY 1 (which changes to the familiar Canada Hwy 17 at the Ontario border).  

I'm up at 5:30 and eager to get my day started.  I shower up (last one for 10 days) and head down to the continental breakfast by 6:10 (it opened at 6:00).  Only one other patron is at breakfast, so it’s a quick meal and I'm packed up and ready to go just before 7:00.  I still have a 3 1/2 hour drive remaining to reach my Red Lake jumping off point.  I make a quick gas-up stop at Vermillion Bay, but otherwise, I make good progress up the 2-lane with very little traffic at this hour.  The only wild life showing is the occasional deer along the side of the road.

I reach Red Lake by 10:30 and it takes a few moments to locate the WCPP office (on the back side of the Ontario Government building--which faces Howey Street).  I'm in hopes of running into Doug (Park Super) or Claire (Asst Park Super), but both are away attending to other duties.  I spend a few minutes obtaining my permit and paying camping fees with a newly minted staff member.  When I start asking questions about my route, she is joined by another staff member who had just returned from a portage clearing trip along the back end of my route.  We do a little research on a couple of campsites that I might get to this evening; making sure that calving season has finished and island campsites would not be occupied by the seasonal birthing process by moose or caribou.  I also inquire about the specific location of one set of pictographs on Hansen Lake.

While I had reserved a couple of hours to converse with staff members relative to my mapping efforts, there was little point in hanging around the office with those staff members out of pocket, so I thanked the staff for their assistance and headed back toward the center of town.  As you proceed along the "main drag" you come to a turn-around spot, which has a nice little lake-front park.  I decided that, although early (11:15), I might as well hold-up here and have a leisurely lunch.  My next appointed stop is with Albert Rogalinski of Goldseekers Outfitters at 12:45.

I sat at a lake-front bench/table and nibbled on what I'd brought along for lunch.   I had assumed that I might be munching on lunch on the drive out to Leano Lake, but with the time available now, so I decided to chow down early.  Over the next 1 1/2 hours, I was witness to numerous boat launchings (public boat ramp at the end of the park) and numerous float plane take-offs and landings.  The part of Red Lake is a seaplane base and "home town" to the Norseman Seaplane gathering each year.  A portion of the park also has an elevated static display of a Norseman.

By 12: 30, I decide it is time to move on.  The drive over to Goldseekers (on Forestry Road) won't take me 15 minutes, but I thought I'd be able to start the unlashing of my canoe and unloading gear, even if I was a bit early.  When I pull up at the outfitters, I immediately notice Kelly (Albert's wife and co-owner) and another person standing just up the drive.  I hop out of my pickup and give Kelly a wave.  She immediately responds with a friendly smile and a wave.  

As I get into conversational range, she welcomes me by name.  I'm a bit surprised she remembered me from last year.  She then introduces me to Dan, my shuttle driver to Leano.  She later explained that the outfitter business was so slow that both she and Albert were working other jobs and Dan was asked to fill-in for small jobs.  After a couple of minutes of conversation in the drive, I began the process of unloading into the heavy duty truck that would be my shuttle vehicle.  It soon became apparent that this was Dan's first trip as a shuttle driver, as Kelly gave instructions on lashing down my canoe.  In addition, since I was the ONLY party, I could place all my gear in the back seat and avoid arriving at Leano with all my gear dusty.

After loading up, we proceeded to the office and I completed the paperwork and payment for my shuttle.  When Kelly asked about my return shuttle, it became apparent that Albert had not clearly communicated that I would drive my vehicle to my exit point (Onnie Lake) and then hop into the shuttle vehicle for the rest of the trip.  We were soon finished with all of the preliminaries, except one.  Kelly needed to check Dan out on driving the vehicle.  They took a short hop around the neighborhood and about 5 minutes later we were on the road to Leano ... shuttle vehicle in front and me bringing up the rear.

It was just after 1:00 as we pulled out of Red Lake for the 2 hour journey to Leano.  The trip is not so far ("Mile 51" is the turnoff point nearest the Leano EP), but despite the recent grading of the roadbed, it is still pretty rough in spots, even before the Onnie Lake EP parking lot.  (It gets rougher after that and the road narrows considerably after Mile 51.)  We pull into the parking area and as I do a few wrap-up activities to tuck my vehicle in for a 10-day stay, I look at the left-rear tire ... "Great!  Its 1/2 flat and going down!"  A quick decision is made and with Dan's significant assistance, we manage to change out the flat to a perfectly good spare, but it takes a little time.  Since the parking lot area is mostly sandy soil, the first task is to find something solid to put the jack on so it doesn't just bury in the sand.  Dan quickly locates a plank and we begin in earnest.  Not quick, but 30 minutes later the tire is changed and all the loose parts are put away.  

About the time we wrap up the tire change, a local lodge owner, and wife, drive up and strike up a conversation.  After a few pleasantries, we bid them farewell and we are finally on the road again.  After passing a few washed out areas (beaver activity along the roadway keep the culverts plugged in low spots), we are forced to pull over again with a "major problem" sound emanating from somewhere along the drive train.  Luckily the problem turns out to be part of the wheel well liner dragging on one of the rear tires.  A quick tie-back solution and we are off again.  

As we merrily proceed down the road, Dan tells me about some of his other work in the area ... fishing guide, building a cabin in the woods during the winter and a variety of other interesting topics.  I briefly interrupt the conversation with an observation, "There's Mile 51."  Dan continues to talk and drive, and talk and drive for another 4-5 miles.  Then he observes, "This doesn't look right.  Did we miss the turn?"  We both pull out our GPS and, sure enough, we should have turned (as I had thought), at Mile 51.  However, we got by the sign so quickly that I was unable to pick out another sign that said "Leano Lake."  So, we reversed course and before long we were climbing up a narrow, single lane road with alders encroaching on both sides.  A couple of interesting observation broke the monotony of the trip.  One was a male Spruce Grouse in full mating array and the other a couple of amorous ground squirrels which were chasing back and forth across the narrow road.

Finally, Leano Lake EP parking lot.  A trip that should have put us here around 3:00 had taken us to nearly 4:15.  Well obviously the first day will be a short paddle, but still I wanted to get off the EP lake and at least to the next lake (Bunny Lake).  Dan and I quickly unloaded my gear and unstrapped and dismounted my canoe.   I bid Dan adieu at 4:30 and set, in earnest, to prepping my canoe and other gear for portaging.  Before leaving the parking lot, however, I did notice some improvements since my last visit here in July of 2009.  The most obvious change was a massive sign the designated the Leano EP, along with maps and other information about the park.  The other improvement was a bit of rip-rap as you leave the parking lot as you begin the portage.

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As I begin my march to the lake, I remember this familiar portage's characteristics, that is until I reach the swampy section.  Here the park as added a new plank bridge, making this portage only mildly damp.  Before long, I've hauled my first load across the portage.  As I drop the packs, I notice that the area has been cleared out a bit from last year and there is a bit of red flag tape to mark the location.  I did remember from last year that finding the location on the way out took a bit of study since it was more than a bit obscure.

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After retracing my steps and bring my "canoe" load across, I'm finally ready to put my first paddle stroke in the water.  A since of easy washes over me as I begin paddling.  Its approaching 5:30 and I know that my original plan to reach the no-name lake after Bunny Lake is very likely out of the question.  There is a slight breeze, but I've balanced my load properly and I hardly notice the change in wind direction as my course change from southwest to northwest.  I'm quickly rounding the corner into the channel headed in the direction of Bunny Lake.  I quickly encounter a beaver dam that I can't push through.  On the exit last year, there were 2 to 3 "in progress" dams in this area.  It looks like the beaver finally picked the spot for final construction since I had to step out on the dam and pull my canoe over before continuing on my journey.

I'm making good progress and I marvel at the differences that a year and time of day can make.  Last year, I paddled this stretch in the reverse direction in the morning.  There was plenty of sunshine that day.  Today started broken clouds and on the journey to the put-in, the broken clouds changed to full overcast with intermittent showers.  So now, I'm viewing the channel in muted tones.  

Before long I reach the portage from Leano to Bunny.  It is one of the longer portages I'll face for a few days, so I'll take my time.  It’s now relatively late in the day, and although I've not been paddling long, I can tell that I'm beginning to tire.  And ... sure enough ... slick root and BAM!  Twisted ankle.  I wince as I continue across the portage, but I can tell that it’s not going to stop me from traveling, but it will be sore for several days.  I finish my first load and return to fetch my second load.  The ankle is tender, but manageable.  

I finish the portage and now it’s near 7:00.  I know there is a campsite just around the corner from the portage (some members of our group occupied this spot last year), but I want to get as far as I can before stopping for the night.  I note a campsite that is within eye-sight of the portage out of Bunny.  I made this my target.  By 7:30, I'm pulling up the site.  It is small, but more than suitable for a solo tripper.  

Because of the lateness of the hour, I decide to go for a quick setup, meal and turn-in.  So the tent is erected, the Raman Noodles were in the pot and canoe and other gear were secured for the night.  Soon I was sitting on my Coleman folding stool enjoying a warm meal.  As I sat and consumed my dinner toward the front of my campsite, I could hear the faint sounds of running water in the direction of tomorrow's first portage.  Then it hit me.  Its June, darkness is beginning to grow, and there is not a single bug in sight!  Amazing!!!  And that's the way it stayed for all but the last couple of days of the trip.  Yes, I did see a few bugs but they seemed to have no interest in me!  I hope it stays that way.

After the dinner dishes were cleaned and I take my evening adult beverage, I have brief thought to tomorrow’s trip.  Last year, we made an intermediate stop on Jake Lake on our march from Mexican Hat Lake to Bunny.  I'll shoot for Mexican Hat, but settle for Jake if the going gets rough or my ankle starts giving me grief.  But, that's tomorrow.  I'm off to bed by 9:00 and soon drift off to a sound sleep.  Yes.  I must have been tired!

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Next Up:  Mexican Hat or Bust (A day of surprises)