I am planning a solo to BW this aug.  Im planning on renting the canoe.  My question is should I get the shorter two man canoe, or the short stubby one man canoe.  Im used to the two man canoe. Has anyone used the short stubby ones?  How do they track, are they as stable?
any help is appreciated
Thanks
Ryan......

I assume you're going solo Bushbum.  

You will get lots of good advice on this site, as there are many very experienced solo canoeists on the QuietJourney site.  

I've paddled a solo canoe some, and mine (a Bell Merlin), is less stable than my 17'6" tandem.  It also holds a lot less gear.  But it's lighter to portage, and very maneuverable.  

I think it depends on how much gear you pack, and to some extent on the nature of the water you're paddling on.  If you're used to paddling a tandem alone, and need the room for your gear, I think your question is answered.  But if you're willing to pack lighter, you may find the solo fun.  It took me a bit to get used to the loss of stability.  I practiced on local lakes, something you may not have the luxury to do if you're renting.  

Good luck.

prouboy

Watch out!   Who you're calling stubby!   ;D

My Wenonah Prism measures out at 16.5 feet, making it only marginally shorter than many outright tandems.  I chose it BECAUSE of the length.  The longer your boat, the better its track properties (and from my experience, the longer glide you'll get).

A canoe like this will initially feel relatively tippy when compared to a tandem ... bottom tends to be more rounded than flat.  The seat near the center achieves a better overall weight distribution resulting in somewhat less weather-vanning (like a tandem that only has a rear paddler and otherwise poor weight distribution.  

But the downside of sitting in the middle ... generally speaking it will not respond as quickly in a turn (tandem boats are superior in that regard, but then you usually have 2 paddlers.)  And, you might as well decide to wet-foot.

Whatever you decide on, I'd recommend a local "try-out" before your put-in day.  Getting the first hour behind you will give you a better appreciation of the various characteristics of the craft you ultimately select.  

Also, don't overlook using a yak paddle in a canoe.  Many swear by them and they eliminate the hit-and-switch pattern you are likely to adopt as a novice solo paddler.

dd

stuby nuttin'
get a longer solo

A solo is definitely less stable...at least as far as initial stability...but at least on my Bell Magic the final stabilty is pretty good.  That is to say that it wobbles a lot easier than a tandem but it's not as easy to capsize as you'd think.

Main thing you need to remember is to stay centered...or as Magicpaddler will tell you "keep your mind in the middle".  That means if you keep your head over the center of your canoe and your body perpendicular to the horizon that will make it difficult for you to move your center of gravity far enough off balance to cause a capsize.

A couple years back I rode a fully loaded Wenonah Advantage parallel to the waves thru 3' rollers across part of Basswood and made the crossing.  I was an idiot to begin the crossing at all, but once I was in it I was committed as executing a 180 was a sure dunking.  I kept my butt loose and my body perpendicular regardless of how the canoe rolled beneath me.  And prayed.

What I like about a solo is that it really feels like an extension of my body in a way that I've never felt when paddling a tandem solo.  Initially it's a little disquieting but in less than an hour you'll begin to feel comfortable.  In a couple of days, you'll feel free!

if you were going by yourself on a bike ride, would you choose a bicycle built for two ?

solo canoes are designed and built for a reason - they are better to solo in than a tandem - if that weren't so, no one would be buying them and with no market, no one would make them

a reasonable measure of efficiency is the length to width ratio - given a tandem and solo of the same length, the narrower solo will be a more efficient/faster boat; being lighter, it shoudl take less work to move thru the water than a heavier tandem, and being narrower, its easier to get a vertical forward stroke in the solo

as mentioned, they will seem to be less stable, due to the narrower width, but that is easily gotten used to.  best thing you can do for the first time you get into a solo boat is to just sit in it near shore and rock it side to side - keep you torso upright/perpenducular to the lake, and rock at the hips - after a few of minutes of that, you will gain confidence and kind of an instinct for keeping the torso upright - just don't lean the torso off to the sides unless you really want to heel the boat.  With a load of gear sinking the boat deeper, it will automatically become more stable than when empty, and if you trim for it (sternheavy) you can kneel to increase stability, though that's not easy to do if you get a boat wiht a tractor seat - better with a bench seat

there is also a learning curve as to paddling the solo boat - you can use a sit n' switch method -i.e. 3 or 4 stroks on the right, then switch to left and give it another 3 or 4 strokes, averaging out the yaw - essentially eliminating "steering" once your pointed in the right direction -
I prefer to use the "C" stroke which is a constant correcton/steering stroke - either will work.  A boat like the Prism or Magic is designed to go straight more than it is designed to turn, and are a better choice for sit n' switch than the Merlin, which is more the opposite and a bit harder to keep going straigt at first.  - if you just do a forward stroke and J every time, you are working against yourself, robbing yourself of the forward momentum.  Go to your library and see what books (and vidoes) they may have on canoeing - you can find lots of instructional type stuff in YouTube as well.  Learning a draw and sweep stroke will help in turning a lot.

most experienced paddlers shouldn't have much trouble adjusting to a solo boat if you take a bit of time to learn it

one critical element of tripping with a solo is to properly trim the boat - you sit just back of center, and its best to have two packs - a heavier one behind, and a lighter (or at least no heavier) pack toward the bow - I tie a short length of rope to the bag in the bow, so I can pull it back towards me, and I can push it forward with my paddle - trim a little bit bow heavy for headwind, and a little sterrn heavy for taiwind - you will be adjusting a lot as you go along - no big deal

on the other hand, you can use a tandem and reverse it and paddle from the bow seat facing the stern, and load all your gear up near the bow - it won't turn as easily as a solo, nor be as easy to control in the wind, nor be as efficient, but it will be more stable, and track a bit better unless its windy - its never windy there, is it?.

if you own a lightweight tandem, it might well be better to use it than to rent a solo, but renting a solo will give you an opportunity to try something different

I've paddled tandems a few time solo, never tripping with one - I just wouldn't want to, but maybe that's just me

I'd go with a solo.  Lots of solos are longer than lots of tandems.

The big item is that you want to be as close to center as possible.  This allows you to maintain trim easier in all situations.

If you're used to tandem seat positions there will be a little adjustment to your paddle stroke in a solo.  A little more corrective strokes.  The C stroke is common in a solo.  Start with a little draw, then power phase, then a little J at the end.
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Since you didn't care to offer the makes and models, I'm thinking whatever you paddle will work for you - cause it will.

Length matters. Weight matters. Lot's of things matter. The big thing I worry about with a canoe I've not used before is how my packs will fit. Beyond that? It's pretty much all good.

If you could offer specifics, people might be able to offer knowledgeable comparisons. Personally, for the shear joy of paddling I like my tandem backwards the best. Unfortunately, paddling just for the shear joy of it doesn't happen often enough on my trips so I'm still looking for the perfect canoe.

Why don't you try the Wenonah Solo Plus.  From what I understand, it has the stability of a two person model with the manueverability of a solo model.  Plus I am interested in hearing a review on how it paddles!  

Someone comment on the SR Tranquility?  I'm not having much luck finding one to try out.  I like stability over tracking and speed. :)

"Someone comment on the SR Tranquility?  I'm not having much luck finding one to try out.  I like stability over tracking and speed."

never paddled one, though I ran into a guy along a portage trail (below the Piceral R dam) who had one - stopped to chat a minute and I asked him about his boat - it was a SR Tranquility (an older boat, maybe there have been changes, I don't know) - he hated it and was ending his trip early - it tracked too hard, i.e., was too hard to turn as far as he was concerned.  I've not seen any glowing reviews of the boat, more on the negative or ho-hum kind of comments, but I've never made a big effort to find review either.

you might look on Paddling.net or CCR.com to see if there are any reviews there.

I've never paddled a Prism either, but it has the reputation of being stable - it is a mainstay rental boat for BWCA outfitters - logically, they will choose a solo boat that is easiest to get used to for people who have never paddled a solo before - might be worth looking at for you

I googled Sr tranquility reviews and found then all glowing except one post on bwca.com.  Mix what you have heard with what I have found and trying out one is definitely only way to know if it fits me.

Thanks.

My first and only solo in a true solo was in a older model SRT that Quetico Dave had.
Like db mentioned, my pack set-up didn't really fit well in a narrow solo, but in the older SRT, it was particularly difficult, becasue the seat frame was a tubing affair that limited how I could place my packs.

I like my packs to be level or below the gunnel's for stability issues as well a less wind resistance. I ended up turning my packs on edge and that didn't help with over all handling one bit.

The seat was a little too high for my liking, so it's initial stably was very unsettling. Once in it and under way, it handled well in rough water. My first and only dumping in the Q was in this model was in this canoe, but that was as much my fault as its ;D

The next trip I went to the SR 16 paddled with a double paddle and never went back. Suits my packs and my tripping style. Dave tried to get me to take the SRT again by lowering the seat a few inches which made a big difference in handling, but the pack issue was still there, so I passed.

I took a tour next year at the SR plan in Atikokan. I looked at the new model SRT and the issues I mentioned had been corrected. They now hang the seat from brackets of the gunnel's and the model I saw could be adjusted fore and aft, as well as the seat height with clips.
If would bring your packs/loaded and give it a try if you can. SR makes a tough canoe, if it handles to your liking then it might make a fine choice. Reviews are nice, but like buying any "vehicle", what counts the most is how it works for you ;)

Solo - thanks.  I had been reading and asking questions for months and had just begun to think that my packs and the transition from paddle to portage might be a more important issue than some of the finer points - well - after stability.