Oh Boy.......it is almost "go" time! Lets talk about that old line on your reel. Yup........time to get new. Seems fine doesn't it? Kinda pull on it.....seems OK.......

Well it isn't  :P. You can skimp on some things but fresh line isn't one of them. Avoid getting line at some cheesy bait store on the way up. It has probably been sitting there for a few years waiting for some unsuspecting schmuck to reach out and blow that dust off so you can read the lb test.

So get line where there is good turnover to insure it is fresh. If possible, have them put it on via machine. It will go on with the correct pressure and without a bunch of "spin". Don't forget to bring your spool!

If you put it on yourself there are quite a number of ways. When I was a wee lad I had to grip the pencil with the spool floating on it while my Dad yelled at me to hold it tighter while he was smoking my fingers because he was reeling so fast.

I prefer to do it myself ("get out of the way" ;) ). I run my lighter spinning line through a phone book to help put pressure on the line. A bit heavier line gets placed on a rod (dowel) and clamped in a vise with a little weight on top. That works nicely.

In any event make sure the line is not being put on with twists. The way to tell is to move your reel towards the fill spool thus creating slack. If the line twists up into a big mess turn the spool to the other side (logo down vs logo up or visa-versa). Check often as you are spooling up. This will avoid complications for you down the road.

I like a full spool. Fill so that about 1/8" of the lip of the spool is still showing. If you get out to the water and find your line twisty let it out behind the boat without anything attached and paddle about. The twists should work themselves out.

I also suggest that you get premium name brand line. Avoid "sale" line as it is on sale for a reason. Everyone has there favorites. I am partial to green trilene xt in the 4lb if it is bright and sunny and I want to get a bite. In the more typical lb tests 6,8,10 I have become a big fan of Gamma co-polymer. Good stuff, ties well. For pike I like the trilene xt once again in the 17 or 20.......

Although after last years loss of Mr. Whopper whopper I have beefed up to 50lb power pro to throw the musky lures I am fond of using.....(I will haul in the whole weedbed..."Now where is that fish , he is in here somewhere" ;D )...........no more Mr. Nice Guy

Anyway.........not much of a tip but it might help someone who is thinking of letting that old line slide by. That is a no-no!   

mastertangler wrote on Apr 2^nd, 2012 at 4:42pm:

In any event make sure the line is not being put on with twists. The way to tell is to move your reel towards the fill spool thus creating slack. If the line twists up into a big mess turn the spool to the other side (logo down vs logo up or visa-versa). Check often as you are spooling up. This will avoid complications for you down the road.

Good line tips. Concerning line twist and spinning reels.
If the the bail rotates clockwise around the spool, then make sure the spool of new line is positioned so that it comes off the new spool in the same direction (clockwise). Some lines are more forgiving than others. here's a quick example:   (You need to Login or Register

zski wrote on Apr 2^nd, 2012 at 6:04pm:

mastertangler wrote on Apr 2nd, 2012 at 4:42pm: In any event make sure the line is not being put on with twists. The way to tell is to move your reel towards the fill spool thus creating slack. If the line twists up into a big mess turn the spool to the other side (logo down vs logo up or visa-versa). Check often as you are spooling up. This will avoid complications for you down the road. Good line tips. Concerning line twist and spinning reels. If the the bail rotates clockwise around the spool, then make sure the spool of new line is positioned so that it comes off the new spool in the same direction (clockwise). Some lines are more forgiving than others. here's a quick example:   (You need to Login or Register

GREAT JOB Zski! I learned a little something on that video. Thanks!

ZSKI...like MT I learned a little something from your video about how to correctly put line on a reel. Thanks for posting.

Good reminder Al.  It's a spring ritual for myself and I let the pro's do it for me.  I will bring all of my spools to my local bait shop with each one labeled for it's particular line and lb. test and I pick them up later in the week.  Pascanell always does his own line and spools and I always get a good chuckle during his inevitable meltdown/curse session by day 2 of our trip because he's fighting loops, tangles and knots.  Funny stuff actually.  I like a good bit of line on mine as well.

Good line is so important IMO.  If you bring your spools to someone to do it for you ask when the line was purchased.  If it has been sitting under the counter for a few years, request that you get some new line.  FWIW, brands that I have had very bad experiences with are Rapala, Suffix and Cortland.  Could be anomalies but I stick with Berkeley and Stren and Fireline.

I've not really had very many line problems overall but every once in a while a spool just wasn't right and i'd have to reel it up onto another reel and then back again. since doing what the guy said in the vid there have been no such mis-spools. I've been stuck on Trilene XL low vis green forever and my favorite is Fireline. Last year tried Tuf-Line Duracast and for me was almost as good. The absolute worst by far was spiderwire. It was maybe 10 or 12 years ago the first day of the year I was taking the kids and a few of their friends. spooled all of the reels the night before with fresh spiderwire to start the season off right with no problems and somehow must have introduced 10x extra twist in them. every single reel exploded in tangles when the kids and i started casting. it was like the work of a masterful line saboteur. so frustrating. hate spiderwire.
My brother, like PJ, beginning of season brings his spools in and has them done at the sport store and he never has any line problems.

I have related this experience before but it bears repeating..........

One year I had spooled all my reels up with straight florocarbon. I hate Vanish so I chose P-line. I have a lot of confidence in the brand using their 30lb mono to good effect (one of the fish I'm most proud of was a 30+ lb grouper caught on 30 P-line) so I'm not knocking the brand.

I picked the line up at a Cabelas retail store so I think it was fairly fresh. We paddled and portaged in the rain to my little smallmouth honey hole. Time to fish........I rigged my rods and couldn't get a single knot to stick. Pop, Pop, Pop..........I had 3 spools of the stuff and none of it would work despite trying various knots. Crap!

Fortunately my pal had an extra spool of 8lb green trilene xt and I was set for the trip.

Several of my friends have a name in Bass fishing circles, tournament and guiding, and floro usage is common amongst them. I am still gun shy with the stuff after that experience however. I couldn't help but wonder if an all day exposure to the rain had anything to do with it.

Cabelas, to their credit, refunded my money after the manager of the store couldn't get any knots to stick either. HA! "See, I told you"................ (I only look like a dork who can't tie a knot)  :D

I hate that I threw off on P-line which I like so much. Here is that grouper caught on 30 P-line. Good stuff.

  (You need to Login or Register   (You need to Login or Register

THAT is a beautiful fish.

I like the phone book idea.

Monofilament fishing line is cheap and should be replaced every year. Sunlight (UV) is the biggest enemy of mono and that includes fluorescent lighting so be careful where it is stored on or off the reel.

Fireline, braids and fusion lines are expensive by comparison and will last much longer before they need replacement. Water, heat and sunlight does not degrade the stuff like it does with mono. After two or three seasons I will remove and reverse fireline on the spool and get another couple of seasons out of it before I will replace it. What will degrade fireline is abrasion so watch for fraying either from rough use in rocky locations or bad line guides on the rod or reel. If the line starts looking fuzzy soon after you start using it suspect the rod or the reel and fix the problem or it will get expensive replacing line or losing fish.

My early experience with fluorocarbon line was similar to MT's. I started with Berkeley Vanish and could not for the life of me tie consistently good knots. I gave up and haven't gone back to the stuff. I would expect there have been improvements so it is probably time to give the stuff a try again but there are just so many other options out there.

Anybody get their hands on Nanofil yet?

zski wrote on Apr 3^rd, 2012 at 3:42pm:

THAT is a beautiful fish.

Eat your Wheaties and come on down Tim.......
Sometimes a spot opens up.....I have already booked for 2013.......Here at MT enterprises we promise to exceed your expectations  ::)

4 weeks and counting for this year, yea baby, time to bring it!

mastertangler wrote on Apr 3^rd, 2012 at 5:29pm:

zski wrote on Apr 3rd, 2012 at 3:42pm: THAT is a beautiful fish. Eat your Wheaties and come on down Tim......

Thanks MT!!!...i've got your number.  :)


Kingfisher wrote on Apr 3^rd, 2012 at 5:26pm:

Fireline, braids and fusion lines are expensive by comparison and will last much longer before they need replacement...... After two or three seasons I will remove and reverse fireline on the spool and get another couple of seasons out of it before I will replace it.

This is a good idea.  In an attempt to be thrify I once tried to backfill a spool of Fireline with a cheaper line but couldn't get a blood knot to work so gave up...

zski wrote on Apr 3^rd, 2012 at 7:40pm:

In an attempt to be thrify I once tried to backfill a spool of Fireline with a cheaper line but couldn't get a blood knot to work so gave up...

I consider backfilling about two layers of mono onto the spool a necessity to prevent fireline and similar lines from spinning on a smooth metal spool. More than once I have had to perform "field repairs" on other peoples reels to correct this problem. Use back to back uni knots or blood knots to connect dissimilar fishing line. They are tricky to tie correctly the first time but help yourself by doing it in a well lit spot at a desk or work bench not in the field.

Kingfisher wrote on Apr 4^th, 2012 at 4:42am:

I consider backfilling about two layers of mono onto the spool a necessity to prevent fireline and similar lines from spinning on a smooth metal spool. More than once I have had to perform "field repairs" on other peoples reels to correct this problem. Use back to back uni knots or blood knots to connect dissimilar fishing line. They are tricky to tie correctly the first time but help yourself by doing it in a well lit spot at a desk or work bench not in the field.

Apply a piece of tape over the first couple of winds of line on the spool.  The small white piece tape that comes with the line purchase is handy enough.

-YB

You can also run the first 10 feet of your super line through cobblers wax or bees wax before putting it on the spool to prevent spin.

I wrap a layer of electricians tape before putting braid on a spool that isn't set-up for braid. Seems to work well.

Excellent advice guys, personally im partial to powerpro and almost always stick with 20lb to 40lb no matter what i am fishing for.. I know most people think that going "lite" is the way to catch  more fish, but i have to dissagree with that. I like to stick to a heavy braid that will hold up to abrasion and has no stretch, but then add a leader to the end which i make myself. I really like p-line 100% flouro in the 15-20 pound range and make my leaders around 2ft long with a swivel and snap swivel. its invisible underwater and hasnt lost me a fish yet including a beautiful 46in northern two years ago. the trick is to always change the leader as soon as you get a nick in the line. its cheaper the buying made leaders and more effective i think.

as for nanofil! i had to try it out when i first saw it this winter. I spolled it up on my ice rod. i used the 8lb and the knot strength is great and it pulled pike and walleye up all winter with out a problem. its very thin and i like that.

Always change your line yearly though!

Why would you run 20-40lb main line and then tip with a 15-20lb leader?

I have a few reasons.. one i never have to worry about abrasion on my main line, if it is dragged across logs or rock it doesnt get beat up, when running light line and you happen to damage that line say 30 ft or more from the end you pretty much have to replace all that line or take your chances of it breaking at that point with a fish on. it is much easier to just change out my leader which never gives out on me and is virtualy invisible.

second i fish mostly bait casting reels and the heavier line is much easier to cast and work with in the case of a tangle or rats nest.

The leader it thicker then the braid im using and provides exactly what i need it to.. invisibility, im not worried about losing fish with it at all.

How many people say using light line is the best thing ever, but then tie on a steel leader? Thats the opposite of what i do, much better strength but you might as well use heavy line then cuz your leader is clear as day down there..

I would like to add what I feel is an item of importance concerning braid..........

It has been my experience when working with braid and tying floro leaders that one has a much easier time when working with braid that has a bit of substance........and even then I often double the braid to help its diameter match the floro.

Very tough to work with wispy braid in actual fishing conditions especially when tying floro leaders to it.