I'm starting to pay attention to bottom bouncers and thinking about giving them a try this summer.  Has anyone used this system by Wing-it.  It looks incredibly versatile and you can even switch off the bouncer weights with slip sinkers without ever having to untie.  The only concern would be whether the silicon sleeve would be secure enough.  Otherwise this is a system that looks like it solves a lot of problems at once.  Thoughts?
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Kerry,

I have used Northland Rock Runner bottom bouncers for years but I want to try a bouncer that will slip when a walleye is putting pressure on hook when it hits.

This Wingit Bottom Bouncer looks like it fits the bill. I googled it and it has gotten favorable reviews. I will have to give these a try.

Have also looked at Northland Slick-Stick bottom bouncer. It slips but is not quick change.

Wally13

Quote:

It slips but is not quick change.

Do you mean slip on the line?
I just bought these. Once the Clevis goes on line, the weight's snap in and out. You can use any weight pencil type bouncer with a eyelet.

I told Kerry in a PM that I could see some potential issues with that Wingit system.
The first is that sooner or later that silicone sleeve is going tear in that rock rip/rap you see a lot of in the Q. That means your going to lose that lead weight. Not what you want environmentaly if you can help it.
I guess if you check it frequently you'd decrease that risk, but I have another concern as well.
I think that Bulbous shape of the bouncer makes it a good candidate to get wedged in the rocks compared to a pencil type of bouncer. Another thing is if you go to that set-up you need to buy all your weights and the rest of the system exclusive from them. The sliding bouncers I linked too, once you put the Clevis on your line, you can use ANY bottom bouncer that will snap into that Clevis. The clevis on the Northland is shaped like a torpedo and I can't see it being a problem for the action of crank baits/spinners/spoons staying permanently on your line?

I guess one of you serous fishing guys needs too do a field test and see if my concerns are relevant or just worst case scenario thinking?




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ST,

Yes,  I would like a bottom bouncer that slips on the line. You are right in your criticism of the Wing It.

The Northland Roach Rig and Rock Runner Slip Sinkers are different critters  than a bottom bouncer. The Roach Rig goes from 1/2 oz to 1 oz  and the Reef Runner goes from 1/2 oz to 1 1/2 oz.  I need a heavier system...1 oz for every 10 ft deep is rule of thumb ...with 45 dgree angle for your line  from rod tip to weight. 

I usually fish 20 ft in July and August can be as deep as 30 ft so I would need 2 to 3 oz bottom bouncer.  I have used a 1/2 and 3/4 oz Roach Type slip sinker if I am using a floating worm harness 10 to 20 ft deep ... but float is needed on worm harness to get it off the bottom a bit as slip sinker is made to skate the bottom of lake.  The Reef Runner is closer to fitting my need  but i want more weight than 1 1/2 oz max that it comes in and I want a longer wire than it offers.

Mike

I tried the bottom bouncer from Northland, pencil shape.  They are made out of steel so you don't have the lead issue.  They are fairly expensive.  I was disappointed because I got snagged in rocks a lot more than I expected.  They worked fine for trolling for trout in deeper water, but that's not they were designed to do.  They are also a little awkward to use and tends to twist around the line when not in the water. 

I fished with my brother-in-law in North Dakota on one of the reservoirs with bottom bouncers.  We didn't have much trouble with snagging, but the bottom was more clay than rocks.  Plus, he knew what he was doing.

Quote:

The Reef Runner is closer to fitting my need  but i want more weight than 1 1/2 oz max that it comes in and I want a longer wire than it offers.

You and Kerry have the same want, and I aim to please my fellow QJers whenever possible ;) ;D

These should clip in that Reef Runner clevis or be modified too. They run up to 3 oz.

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Yeah, Wally and I have the same concern.  I want to be able to get down to at least 25 - 35 feet for Walleye and more if I wanted to use the same system for trout in late summer.  The Rock-Runner is only going to be good for 15, maybe 20 feet.  The advantage of the Wing-it system is that they include a full range of weights from ½ oz. right up to 4 oz.  So I'm going to give them a try.  The Rock-Runners look like they'd be worth a look, though, along with those heavier pencil bouncers that ST pointed out - just to compare.

Bottom bouncers........yup they can be key at times. When we used to stay at a fish camp near Sioux Lookout we would drift a reef and use large chubs and suckers. Popped some very nice walleye that way.

We also use bottom bouncers on Lake Erie while trolling crawler harnesses.

A few thoughts. If the bottom isn't fairly constant.......Lake Erie basin for example may be flat for a mile or more, your bottom bouncer will require almost constant attention to keep it in the "zone". Drifting the reefs on Lake Minnitaki (sioux lookout) was done in the comfort of a tin boat and keeping an eye on your rig was fairly simple.

Not trying to pop anyones bubble........with a good depth finder and someone else paddling you about a bottom bouncer can have some success. But in canoe country the bottom changes so often and dramatically that trolling under power might be tough.

Drifting, on the other hand would be the way to go with them out of a canoe IMO........drift sock might be helpful to get the boat pointed into the waves.

I like the product........quite innovative.

Would it be correct to assume that using in-line weights would raise the same problem you're describing with bottom bouncers?

the in-line weights are a bit more streamlined and the physics involved make them able to troll at higher speeds with less tendency to tangle.

The bottom bouncers are just that........they are intended to be fished directly on the bottom, maintaining contact always. Difficult to do under power in a canoe unless you have a partner willing to do the paddling while you adjust for the depth. Very effective with live bait and I like the slip abilities of the sinker you are showing. They would of been great while drifting chubs. As it were we used bait running reels and regular egg sinkers. It was a blast!

The in lines are not suited for direct contact with the bottom for any length of time for they end up snagged and your bait ends up dragging bottom.

Bottom line IMO, if your going to drift the bottom bouncers would be fine (but so would an egg sinker and a split shot ;) ) but I foresee some hassles trying to troll bottom bouncers out of a canoe.

Using a bottom bouncer in a canoe is easier with a tandem team, than solo and can be done but it does take some practice and the concerns voiced are all valid.
Solo, there really difficult but not impossible. A few things I've learned the hard way.
You need to have the canoe moving at as fast a speed as you can before you deploy your bouncer. I get up to "ramming" speed, then carefully let the bait/lure end run out and them let the bouncer drop in to the water.
If your not moving, the bouncer will drop down and pull snell almost straight down and more than likely snarl into your main-line. Bad thing there, is you might not even realize it until your reel in.

I found the way I described works pretty well. I also like a "controlled" line release. If you had a bow paddler you can open bail and meter line between your fingers to keep from getting snarls in line as you pay it out.
Solo, you can't do that becasue you only have a few seconds before your forward progress stops.
I found that if is just let the spool freewheel the weight/drag of rig will pull the line out without snarls/loops.
This allows me to resume paddling. When I see the rod tip flicking back and forth, I know I'm "ticking" the bottom. I check frequently as I travel and adjust line out or in so I see that ticking.

It's not easy, but you adapt. In-Line weights are easier all the way around, but were talking about bottom bouncers. Plenty of choices, ALL will do the job, some better than others and many are dependent on what the guy using them is willing to do or not do.

Here's a link with some good illustrations of the almost endless possibilities you can put together.

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