For those of you that solo trip, how many packs do you bring, and what is in each pack? Just high level detail, not a packing list.

I like to bring some fishing gear and some photo gear. I find that I generally have a larger "camp" pack: tent, tarp, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, clothes, etc. Then I have a food and cooking equipment pack, which I keep separate due to food odors. And then I have a largish day pack with rain gear, first aid, fishing and camera stuff. Between these three packs, plus two paddles and two fishing poles, double portaging always seems out of reach.

At the end of the day, double portaging is really not a big deal to me. I just feel like I have a ton of stuff, and I keep wondering if there's not a better way to do this.

I always go with 2 packs - actually one is a duffel bag, and the other is 2950 cu. in. "G" Pack (duffel is about 3000 cu in I'd guess). For portaging, I put on the pack and then just toss the duffel atop the pack and balance it there using one hand.   In a solo canoe, trim is more of an issue than when paddling a tandem, in that you need a pack in front and back to get the trim right, and to be able to adjust for headwind or tailwind if needed.  The G pack is my food pack, with rain gear, a water bottle and some odds and ends to start out with, and all the camping stuff is in the duffel.  As the food gets eaten, I shift gear to more or less keep the weight equal.

I always take the gear over in 2 loads - the 2 packs first, so I can scout the portage trail for blowdowns that may need to be sawn, or to see where the go-around is, and to spot any false trails to avoid, and when I get to the far end, to pick the spot I want to drop the boat at.  That is a lot better than carrying the boat first, and that way I take the heaviest load over first.  Fishing pole and small fanny pack with lunch and water is attached to the boat - I have water in the food pack as well, so that way I can have a drink at either end of the trail.  I hand carry a paddle on each trip, to use as a hiking stick for balance, and the pfd is just hooked around a rear thwart.

I pack as light as or lighter than anyone, but to single trip a portage I'd have to carry at least 95# on the first day - I tried that once and my knees were crying and telling me never again.  That is with a normal food load for 12 or 14 days.  I weigh in a fat 150 now, so 95# would be something like 65% of my body weight - old backpacking rule of thumb was that you could carry 1/3 of body weight comfortably, not twice that.

by making two trips across a portage, I enjoy the trail more, especially when hiking back empty for the second load

I suppose that you could get away with one giant pack if you use a tandem and shove it to the far end, or one giant and one medium if you cram all your camera and fishing gear in somewhere.  Maybe just a light duffel bag for your food that you could either hand carry or toss atop the big bag for the portage.

to me, its a question of how much weight you want to carry on any given trip across (not volume), not how many trips you make - if you have too much weight to carry everything in 2 trips, then no option other than to do it in 3 carries.  If the weight isn't the issue, then get bigger packs and load everything into 2 of them.  That is one thing I like about a backpack (vs a traditional canoe pack) - mine has netting pouches on the outside that I make use of to keep my rain gear in, and it has a top pouch that holds a lot of little incidentals like bug dope, saw and sun screen where I can get at them easily - I don't have to open a pack to get the rain gear, just grab it.

with 3 packs, I don't see a practical way to carry everything in 2 carries - sure, I've seen people struggling across portages with huge packs on front and back, but to me, that's just asking for trouble when you can't see where to put your feet, and have really awkward balance.  not something I'd try.  I guess if you could put all of the lightest stuff in one big pack and carry that and the boat on one carry, you could maybe get the rest across in a second load.

a lot of odds and ends can be carried on the boat if you have some sort of thwart bag or rig something like that

one thing I forgot to mention, is that I have my food so well wrapped up in layers of plastic bags that I don't worry about food smell getting on the gear I transfer from the duffel to the food pack - it is usually stuff like the tarp, water filter, spare shoes, 1st aid kit, and repair kit that I move form the duffel as the food gets eaten.

I double portage with the food pack (heaviest pack) and my small day-pack attached to it as a chest pack. Take double paddle as walking stick.

I take GEAR pack which is a set weight with canoe.
Rods and spare paddle attached to canoe.
I go way heavier than Mad_Mat becasue I bring more 'luxury' items/cookware and food items than he does.
I'm also about 200# so that makes a difference too.

I had my share of ultralight ( for the times) backpacking) so for me right now I'm willing to haul more to have more if that makes any sense.

I try to double portage BUT safety is my first concern, so IF the portage is more strenuous or conditions slippery etc, I'll drop part of the load going across, maybe day-pack, then drop canoe with day-pack and go back for a partial 3x.

It all really boils down to how little you WANT to do without. I could get by with ONE big pack and canoe and someday that's what I'll do but right now I like to trip in "style".

I know the fewer portage trips the more time you can paddle and the farther you can go, but for me in the big scheme of things 2x or 3x isn't that big of deal in a place like the Q. It's not like your at work.  ;) ;D

I used to be able to portage in two trips (20 years ago) but now it has become three trips.  I'd rather walk a little further and cut down on the overall weight for each trip.  Also agree with ST that safety is first and speed second so taking one's time is a smart thing to do.
I have several packs, in order to get them stashed in the kayak:  in the back: two tube shaped packs with the food, a small duffel with hatchet, saw, other cooking stuff, etc.  Then a small pack with stove and coffee fixings, a small insulated pack for cheese and fresh meats, and a 2 1/2 gallon bucket with lid with dishes, pots, pans and etc. inside it.  Where I sit is next.  In front of me is a medium sized Sealine rubber pack with all my clothes and personal items.  Under the front deck I have a wedge shaped pack with tent, fly, ground tarp, large rain tarp and the rope, poles and stakes.  In my lap or beside me a medium dry bag with roll top with all the stuff I need while I paddle, sun screen, camera, map, compass and a zillion other little things.  Strapped on the back deck a Sealine shoulder type rubber bag/pack with all the sleeping stuff: bag, air mat, book, pj's and more.  If it sounds stuffed to the brim, I assure you it is.  At portages the Sealines and the tent wedge pack are carried as is.  I have another Duluth style pack to put all the small packs I listed into and carry them like that, but then that pack is about all the weight I want to carry for one trip. (On one trip Kawishiway offered to carry that pack for me, half way across the portage he asked WHAT is in here!  I said, just about everything.  ;D)  At the end of the portage I have to repack the small stuff into the kayak again.  >:(  This is a particular pain when one is paddling across several little lakes with short portages in between them.  8-)

i try and single portage. Pack everything in a CCS Guide or a Granite Gear solo pack. If I use the Guide it tends to have a fair amount of space left over. Both packs are able to lie flat behind the seat in my Advantage (a fairly narrow boat). I have a sliding seat and am able to trim for every condition I've encountered using the slider. I carry some camera gear (a DSLR and a compact that I attach to the thwart for pictures when traveling)including a nearly full-size tripod. At the beginning of trips if I feel too heavy I will drop the canoe and just carry the pack. Paddles and PFD are attached to the canoe.

Gear and boat for a week.

---

Solus wrote on Jul 20^th, 2016 at 2:21am:

i try and single portage. Pack everything in a CCS Guide or a Granite Gear solo pack.

One pack - that's madness! What do you take as far as food and a camp set-up? I can't envision ever getting down to one pack, but I am curious.

Solus,

I wish I could single portage. I currently triple portage. My CCS supply pack, CCS food pack and my fishing and CPAP pack that I carry with Bell Magic.

I am a fisherman at heart and take too much fishing crap. I have tried to whittle it down but it is just hard for me to say no to fishing tackle.

I am 62 years old and i have begun to like certain amenities like a Helionix Camp Chair, GPS, In Reach, to name few.

---

Mr Wally,  Would you mind posting some additional photos or how your solo canoe is trimmed out?  What bells and whistles you have added?  I am traveling solo this Fall in a Mad River Independence and I believe it need some creature comforts added.  ST had kindly posted some of what he had done with his tandem he paddles solo, along with some single traveler campsites amenities.  It all helps and I am not bashful about stealing ideas.

Thanks,

Regards,

MossBack

Quote:

a backpack (vs a traditional canoe pack) - mine has netting pouches on the outside

Like M_Mat, I'm a fan of those side pockets.
IF you don’t have external pockets on your canoe pack, I highly recommend you add some. My gear pack has side compression straps you mount the daisy chain pockets too. My Granite Gear food pack DIDN’T have them so I had KONDOS outdoors sew some on.

Having 4 extra easy to reach pockets make it nice to keep your fuel (liquid) in those pockets and in event of a leak, you won’t get your food contaminated of main pack soaked in fuel. It’s also a great place for ANY item you want handy without having to get into a big pack or paw thru your daypack.

I use plastic fuel bottles so I added another layer of impact protection by taking a plastic milk jug and some duct tape and made a DIY sleeve to fit fuel bottle, would work for those thin Aluminum too. That way if I inadvertently set the pack down wrong on a sharp rock/stick, it gives an extra almost weightless level on impact protection.

This is an example of what I have but a different brand. I’m on my 2nd set on one pack because I left a granola bar in side pocket and a mouse chewed a hole in it. I kept the pocket, stitched up the hole and use it to put my camp shoes in. Keeps dirt from getting into gear in pack.

  (You need to Login or Register

Mossback,

Sorry I don't have any good pics of my setup for my 2006 Black Magic other than what I posted. Here are the modifications I made.

I dropped my seat an inch as I use a GSI Sitback and the pad is about an inch thick.

I added a Wenonah sliding footbrace this year. Here is a pic of my installation using perforated studs that are epoxied onto the sidewalls of the canoe. I then put stained oak 3/4 inch blocks over the epoxy ( will send in another post as I cant seem to post more than 2 pics at a time).

For my 2014 solo I added a piece of 3/4 inch by 4 inch strip of walnut and put 2 ram mounts to mount my Garmin GPS and my Lowrance Fish Finder and strapped on a fishing pack .

I put away my canoe in garage and have my equipment all put away in basement.

---

I put away all of my equipment and my canoe is stored in garage but here is a pic that I took of finished footbrace with Ram Mounted Folbe rod holder and Ram Mount ball that holds my Garmin GPS Montana.

I shoot thru the hull of my canoe instead of using a suction cup. I don't have a pic but I just glued in a piece of closed cell foam just big enough to hold my transducer and I glued it to the hull in front of my Magic. You then put a handful of water into the foam holder and then insert your transducer and then turn on and shoot thru the hull. You can also make a mound of Duct Seal and stick it to your canoe hull and make a less permanent mount.

---

My version of Wally13's fish-finder mount and transducer bow mount. I'm not a dedicate fisherman so my set-up reflect's that.

  (You need to Login or Register

  (You need to Login or Register

Solotripper,

Nice setup. I like your rod  holders made out of gutter downspouts .

Wally13 wrote on Jul 24^th, 2016 at 5:09pm:

Solotripper, Nice setup. I like your rod  holders made out of gutter downspouts .

I couldn't find ROUND ones so I went with those. The idea works BUT they don't lay under gunnels as I wanted them to. I had them in front of canoe, THAT turned out to be mistake
Still caused issues with snagging rods loading/unloading packs in less than ideal conditions.

Next trip I'm going with ROUND 2" PVC pipe I honeycombed out to save weight.
Will zip tie under gunnels in stern and secure butt end of rods under portage yoke. We'll see how THAT works out?
.

Solotripper,

I found a couple of pics on my Iphone from 2014 that I took for solo Saganagons trip. There weren't but a couple of portages so I added the 4 inch tabletop thwart and strapped a fishing tackle box to it. The Lowrance fish finder went on the ball Ram Mount. My other fishing tackle bag went on the back thwart behind my GSI seat.

In 2016 my 10 day Quetico trip had a lot more portages so I didn't take the 4 inch thwart and fishing tackle bag. The  fishing bag and  wide thwart combo is too heavy for portaging so I put on the thin thwart that came with my Magic and installed a couple of smaller ball Ram Mounts. I packed my fishing tackle in my equipment bag.

Also, here is  my simple "shoot thru the hull" transducer set up.

Modifications are about done.

---

Solotripper,

I have gone to using Rod Glove sleeves with Penn reel covers and attach these to the thwarts on each side of the canoe with Bungee Dealie Bobs.  I use long zip ties to tie the rod tip that is covered to the deck plate on front of my Magic to secure. Wish I had a pic to show you. I think you have the idea.

I feel that this is the lightest way to go and the Rod Gloves protect the rods and eyelets and stay with the canoe when portaging. I have 2 rods in each rod sleeve but only 1 reel that is attached to a rod.  There are other Reel Covers besides Penn but I like the neoprene soft protection and their larger size.  I picked up this idea from a fellow paddler and fisherman I know.

---

Nice set-up for the people who make fishing their priority. That is a simple transducer set up.

I read various discussions about the merits of just shooting thru hull and any possible  signal "loss" doing it that way. Since I had no real experience/knowledge either way, I decided I would blend some ideas together and see how they worked.

That 1st pic is a little confusing becasue it's BEFORE I attached the transducer to the hull. The round plastic tub I attached to bow with silicone adhesive using an X inside a circle pattern. I cut slit in side of screw lid container and then drilled hole the size of transducer cable.

You put transducer in container and to hold tight to bottom I used that white closed cell foam piece you see at top of pic. Then I filled tub with water and screwed on the lid. Even on portages the water stayed in.

I don't know if that helped or not, but it was easy enough to do. I didn't leave it attached, I just used a knife and peeled it off the end of trip.

I don't take fish finder on traveling trips I wanted something quick and easy for base-camp ones like that Fall trip.

ps,
I have rod covers BUT I like that neoprene idea. Never knew about those, will check out. Thanks for that.

My main secret for reducing gear to one pack; I don't fish when solo tripping.

Otherwise for shelter: A CCS 10x10 Tundra tarp, Big Agnes Copper Spur 1 tent.
Sleeping: Nemo Cosmo 25 insulated pad, Enlightened Equipment down quilt, Nemo pillow, Egyptian cotton liner.
Food: steel cut oatmeal and polenta with dried cherries and clarified butter for breakfast. Nuts, dried fruit, sausage/jerky some candy for lunch, Dinners of dehydrated beans (cook in 12-15min), rice with varying veggies and spices portioned and packed (about 1.5-2 cups dry/meal), a pasta meal or two, chocolate for dessert. Top quality Coffee (36oz/week). Food is packed into Sealline dry bags for transport and hanging.
Cook kit: One or two pot, bowl, double walled stainless mug, titanium spork, aeropress for coffee, Dragonfly stove 44oz fuel
Clothing:white merino wool t-shirt and shorts for travel, another pair of shorts and a short sleeve shirt for camp. Mid weight merino long sleeve shirt, thin nylon pants (in case the bugs get bad), a bug shirt, a couple of pairs of extra merino socks. A  couple of camp towels. Clothing and sleep system are each placed in small E-vent compression sacks (water proof and pack small)
Luxuries: A 7X9" Chemistry notebook journal, Kindle. Helinox chair (bringing it rules out using the smaller Granite gear pack). 8-16 oz bourbon.
Various: small first aid kit, gallon size "repair" kit, two ropes and pulley for hanging, dry shoes (my bane, running shoes take up more room than clothes or sleeping bag (size 13), a dslr, 3/4 tripod, camera kit, perhaps another lens (long and heavy but with great reach), a compact camera for traveling shots. BlackDiamond headlamp. Fixed blade knife, 175gm Disccraft Frisbee.

simple thwart bag contains 6litre collapsable water carrier, bungee dealees, Chrismar map (try to not use the map), sunscreen and bug dope, spot gen2

That's about it.

Lean and mean. Used to do the same backpacking but as I got older I like the little luxuries.

On my recent solo trip I used two bags— one Duluth #3 Camp Kitchen (45 pounds) that held my tent, sleeping bag and pad, clothes, rain gear, tarp, cook kit, and back up fishing tackle. The side pockets held loose stuff like extra batteries, notebook, trowel, etc. My second bag is a Duluth portage pack, which held all my food (15 pounds).

My tackle box attaches to a thwart and never leaves the canoe. Rods are likewise secured.

I usually portage the canoe first, then go back for the two bags. The portage pack clips on the front of my #3.

Works for me.

  (You need to Login or Register   (You need to Login or Register[/URL]

MossBack wrote on Jul 23^rd, 2016 at 3:47am:

Mr Wally,  Would you mind posting some additional photos or how your solo canoe is trimmed out?  What bells and whistles you have added?  I am traveling solo this Fall in a Mad River Independence and I believe it need some creature comforts added.  ST had kindly posted some of what he had done with his tandem he paddles solo, along with some single traveler campsites amenities.  It all helps and I am not bashful about stealing ideas. Thanks, Regards, MossBack

Ah, the wonderful Indy!  I took mine on a few BW trips and loved the way it handled the small water and rivers.  I had trouble with it in windy conditions, though.  Even with my 50# pack behind me, I couldn't stick the stern enough to compensate for an oblique tailwind.  So beware the effects of all that rocker and be sure you can put weight all the way into the ends.

I've done 7 or 8 solo BW trips.  I triple portaged on one of the first ones, when I was carrying 90+ lbs.  Since then I've trimmed the load to about 85 lbs, and that includes a chair.

Double portaging, on the first trip I carry the boat and the small pack, 20-25 lbs.  With a heavier boat, say, 55 lbs, I'd take the day pack instead.  With a lighter boat, say, 40 lbs, it's much easier.

On the second trip I carry one large pack of about 50 lbs and my 10-12 lb daypack.  The daypack goes in front where it helps counterbalance the weight behind.

The boat comes across first so that when I arrive on the second trip I can put the boat in the water and drop the pack in without having to pick it up a second time.  It saves wear and tear on this 66-year-old body.

More info and pictures of loaded and unloaded boats on my website,   (You need to Login or Register.

Gavia,  Besides plagiarizing ideas I am also happy to admit my ignorance and ask for help or clarification.   Make me understand your comments about the Indy related to "sticking the stern", is that to say you are trimming for an abnormally heavy stern to keep the wind from blowing it flat?    Why do  you suggest moving the weight to the far ends?  So it does not pivot so easily and tracks better?

I have always been puzzled by the information I have found on the Indy that seems to  contradict itself.  Factory specs list it in the Moving Water category, yet for tracking give it an 8 out of 10.  Other factory literature claims it as "Our performance solo touring canoe" and one more boasts "Our best flatwater solo boat"

My reality is I have little enough time in it to have good confidence in bigger water.  So I am planning a trip from Prairie to the end of the Man Chain and back.  I am taking a double ended paddle at ST suggestion, although have not yet tried it,  and some time ago purchased a set of  Cooke covers to minimize wind effect and keep some of the waves out.  My guess would be all of the gear purchases will not make up for lack of skill on my part.

Final note, your website is quite impressive and you have devoted much time to give details.  Thank You for the effort, and additional information on the Independence.

Regards,
MossBack

Wally,  Thanks for the photos of some of your solo gear, but I am afraid that prompted more questions.  I was glad to see your footbrace pics.  I had already bought a Wenonah brace and was wringing my hands about drilling rivet holes.  I ordered stainless perforated studs from Mcmaster-Carr and planned to use clear 100% silicone caulk.

Do you think the silicone will be strong enough?  I was also surprised to see the brace mounted so high?  I searched for a standard dimension off the floor but came up empty?

Can I assume the blue squares are just painters tape to limit the epoxy?

What is the purpose of the 2 short pieces of black pipe insulation?  Knee pads for Gunwales maybe?

Standard apologies for all the questions.

Regards,

MossBack

Quote:

o use clear 100% silicone caulk.

I'd look to see IF you can find silicone caulk AND adhesive which is made for HOLDING as well as sealing. Even with that extra hold over 100% caulk I doubt it would stand up to the torque you'll be putting that foot brace through. I think that epoxy Wally used is the way to go. You'd hate to have that foot-brace come loose/off when you needed it the most.  :o :'(

Mossback, sorry for the long delay in getting back to you.

Thanks for the nice comments on my website.  I enjoy taking the time with those details.

The Independence has 2.5" of rocker in both ends so it's pretty maneuverable.  I found that paddling it level involved a lot of strong correction strokes.  Leaning it 10-20 degrees made it more sensitive to correction strokes, thus easier to maneuver.  This is all well and good in moving water and flatwater with minimal wind.

When the wind picks up it's hard to control unless the wind is either directly ahead or astern.  I can't attach a picture of me paddling my Indy in a quartering tailwind but you can see it in the bottom half of this page:   (You need to Login or Register.

I'm doing a strong sweep stroke on the left side, but the wake indicates the boat is slewing to the right.  And that's with my main pack behind me.  I just could not get the stern to stick deep enough to resist the yawing force of the wind.

Earlier in this trip, I was in a quartering headwind and crosswind, having the devil of a time controlling the boat.  So I lashed my two paddles together with a couple of velcro straps and made a short double paddle.  It's the only time I've done that and it worked great.  So your idea of doing it makes a lot of sense.

I sold the Indy two years ago.  It took two boats to replace it, a Blackhawk Ariel for rivers and a Hemlock Peregrine for tripping and other flatwater.