As I’ve read threads about fishing lakers, the predominant tactic seems to be trolling. This is a great tactic for finding them. Once you find them, the better strategy may be to stop trolling and go to the upwind side of the hole and do some deep jigging with heavy flashy spoons or jigs. Using a fish finder is a big help in locating and defining the holes where lakers hang out.

If you’re traveling, another tactic is what I call ‘jig-trolling’. I use a couple of bungee bobs and attach the butt of the rod to my paddle near the blade where I can hold both with the same hand and attach the rod near the middle to the top end of the paddle, again where I can hold both with the same hand. Use jigging tackle and start trolling. The action of paddling does the jigging.

When you get a hit, the two can be separated by releasing the bungees.

Lakers are often triggered to hit by erratic lure action. Even when trolling, the hits often come when there is a change of direction or speed. Give it a try this year. 8-)

Old Salt makes an excellent point re: "erratic action" prompting lake trout to strike. 

Years ago, I had been trolling a flashy silver spoon in a Woodland Caribou lake that was well-known for its lakers.  We had gone what seemed hours-on-end without any action whatsoever.  My bored paddling partner had given up and was alternating between snoozing in the bow and (occasionally) motoring me around the lake.  Suddenly, he woke up, saw me "still at it", and just shook his head.  In what must have been an inspiration from "dreamland", he suggested, "Hey! Try raising & dropping your rod tip in repeated elongated motions - about 5-6 feet or so - and slow down your retrieve.  If that doesn't work, vary the speed of your retrieval."  The suggestion seemed funny coming from him since, to the best of my knowledge, he was strictly a "pitch-buzzbaits-to-bass" fisherman.

Since I certainly couldn't do any worse than I was already doing, I immediately gave it a shot & adopted the tactic, even as he spoke.  No lie, a really nice lake trout slammed my Sutton Spoon on about my third dip!  I went on to catch a few more nice ones in relatively short order using that same technique.   

My buddy told me he uses that "erratic action" technique with certain saltwater species "to trigger fish that are otherwise tentative about striking."  Nowadays, when it feels like the LT fishing is dead, it's a "go-to" tactic that I use with some success.  Generally, I'll put on the flashiest spoon in my box and have at it.  If, after 20 minutes or so, that technique fails, well... you know it's time to paddle back to camp and enjoy whatever libation might be on hand.

Later,

Jimbo   8-)

You can call it erratic action or some other terms, but if you are not catching any fish you should change what you are doing.  My personal opinion is that fish have periods when they don't bite and they have periods when they do bite.  It is really difficult to determine which phrase they are in.  So if you are not catching fish change something (e.g. lure, color, depth, location, speed of retrieve, method (trolling, casting or jigging)).  The main thing is that you keep the faith and keep trying.  One thing is for certain if you don't have a lure in the water you are not going to catch any fish.  Obviously, certain areas on the lake will be better than others.  To find the better areas require a certain amount of time.  Even if you find a good area it may not be a good area later on in the day or the next day.  If you fish an area often enough general patterns will develop.

Yup....change it up.  2015, Argo....2 hours of laker trolling and nothing.  Came to a dead stop, dropped a spoon to the bottom in about 75 ft. of water, took one turn on the handle up, started jigging and inside of 5 minutes, it was grilled laker for dinner.

pd

I'm going to give the Bungee Bob technique a try.  Would have never thunk it!   :-X

Thanks........Mike

Using a double blade, I'll rig it up with the tip of the rod near the blade and the handle of the rod along the axis of the paddle handle.  Thinking this through, I've always had problems hooking fish while taking the rod out the holder then trying to set the hook.  This technique should take care of that issue as well.  Bungee Bob is always looking for pictures of innovative ways his products are being used.  Might want to share with him.  I use them for all kinds of things.

Later......Mike

mpeebles wrote on May 8^th, 2019 at 11:51pm:

Using a double blade, I'll rig it up with the tip of the rod near the blade and the handle of the rod along the axis of the paddle handle.  Thinking this through, I've always had problems hooking fish while taking the rod out the holder then trying to set the hook.  This technique should take care of that issue as well.  Bungee Bob is always looking for pictures of innovative ways his products are being used.  Might want to share with him.  I use them for all kinds of things. Later......Mike

You might want to add a Paddle Leash to that set-up.  ;)

You get a big LT slamming that set-up you could lose a rod as well having your Double Paddle floating away. That would be 2X up SHITE Creek without a paddle.  :o ;D ;D

I was looking at rod holders at the local Basspro and realized that I'm a fan of the under the leg technique.  Why, you ask? Well, I'm usually looking around at the scenery and this way I can feel the "hit".  With a rod holder I might not realize it until it's too late. Plus I just kinda dig that jolt under the leg of getting a hit.  It's exciting.

Unless it's a rock...   :-/ :-/

TomT wrote on May 9^th, 2019 at 2:02am:

I was looking at rod holders at the local Basspro and realized that I'm a fan of the under the leg technique.  Why, you ask? Well, I'm usually looking around at the scenery and this way I can feel the "hit".  With a rod holder I might not realize it until it's too late. Plus I just kinda dig that jolt under the leg of getting a hit.  It's exciting.

I have a nice clamp on rod holder Cabelas Quick Draw Brand. Thought it would be great. First portage I realized it was just something to get hung up/plus add weight.

Went to the old school under the leg technique and never looked back.

When you attach your paddle and rod with bungees, go for snug but not tight. If it’s too tight you may have trouble with release. If it’s new for you, try it out at home first. ;)

To each his own.  Years ago I tried the pole under the leg and did not like it at all.  It requires too much concentration, was uncomfortable and was too soft when a strike happened to properly set the hook.  I tried some inexpensive rod holders and they were an improvement, but fair from perfect.  Finally, I spent about $30 per rod holder and got some good rod holders and have never looked back.  Since I am generally in back I have a very good view of the rod holder in front.  Also most of the time if it is a decent fish you can hear the drag or the movement of the rod will make a sound so you know that there is a fish on.

Tom T says he like the feel of the jolt of the rod when he hooks a fish.  Sounds like a perfectly good reason to use the pole under the leg method.  At our age any thrill we can get should be taken.

It's also just one less thing to carry.  When I first started tripping I did it this way (rod under the leg).  Old habits die hard. I also just like the simplicity and the old school nature of it. It's how Sig and Dorothy did it I'm sure.

TomT wrote on May 10^th, 2019 at 11:54am:

It's also just one less thing to carry.  When I first started tripping I did it this way (rod under the leg).  Old habits die hard. I also just like the simplicity and the old school nature of it. It's how Sig and Dorothy did it I'm sure.

I think the rod weight and your line choice plays a part in getting a good hook set trolling this way.
 
My trolling rod when I'm traveling is a 7' med-heavy
Ugly Stick Elite. My line is #40 braid. That's about #10 in mono size. With SHARP hooks the fish pulls a little bit they are hooked.
I use the single type hook that hooks them in the corners of their mouths too.
 
  I have a loop on my under seat canoe pack on the right side as I face forward. The butt of the rod goes in the loop and the blank runs parallel with the seat
and lays against the gunnel. I duct tape a small piece of foam on the gunnel so it doesn't rattle.

The rod doesn't contact the bottom of my legs at all so comfort isn't an issue.

When I get a strike the butt of the rod snaps forward in the loop to alert me. The loop is big enough I can reach down with my left hand and pull up and out. Stiff rod and braid I don't have to jerk the rod at all.

Again, different strokes for what works for you.

Or, just trip in May and surface cast.   8-)

About 1979 I had outfitted with Woods Davis and he apparently sensed that I did not know squat about fishing up North.  He took the time to describe holding the rod butt in the bend of a knee and the shank laying in front of the other knee to feel strikes, then snapping the rod forward off the knee to set the hook.  I still use that method quite often while trolling.  Although aging stiff knees are not making it easier.

Woods also suggested trolling where you could see bottom on the bank side, but not see bottom on the off side.  Using a shallow and deep runner on its appropriate side.

Just basic information, but it was very helpful for a young guy who had mostly just caught Bluegills in farm ponds.

Regards,

MossBack

Rod under my left knee when trolling works good for me. Also - I've seen my wife out fish me for Lakers when trolling this:

---

PhantomJug wrote on May 10^th, 2019 at 3:28pm:

Or, just trip in May and surface cast.   8-)

I haven't mastered the Double Paddle trolling surface cast yet but it's on my to-do list.  ;) ;D ;D

I like to troll shallow diving stick-baits or a nice spin bait when I'm traveling in May.

MB,
I could see that method if your traveling tandem but at least for me, even with two GOOD knees, keeping the butt under one and trying to use my Double Paddle is just too much effort and very uncomfortable.

But if it works for you more power to you.

Jimmar,

I think that Pink color probably is way underrated be
most guys are NOT going to think PINK for a fishing lure color. I know I've caught some nice Waldo's on a PINK/WHITE Slo-Poke jig reeled in nice and slow so you can feel the blade hitting the rocks.

I'm going to be adding a few Pink lures to my tackle satchel. I have more than a few bait colored lures I could swap them out for.
 

ST & All -

Just by chance, I have a "special duty" lake trout lure that, well, er, uh... just happens to be pink!  I confess that I rarely deploy it, unless conditions are exceptional and ONLY if I'm after TRUE lunkers. 

This one-of-a-kind lake pink trout lure (briefly marketed as "Magic Bait") was custom-made for me by the famed, legacy QJ'er and Owner, Chief Engineer & President of Operations for Bo-Tie Jigs, better known to long-time QJer's as the one, the only, the legendary "QueticoPassage."

Though you may be pink with envy, please be advised that QP is under a strict, iron-clad agreement to produce replicas of this now vintage "collector's item" for me & only me.  Boo-hoo for you!

See attached pic.

Jimbo   8-)

---

ST,   The rod behind the knee worked well for me while I was paddling with knees against the gunwales and legs crossed.   Since installing a foot brace in my own solo, I wish tandem rentals had them as well.

MB

MossBack wrote on May 10^th, 2019 at 5:52pm:

ST,   The rod behind the knee worked well for me while I was paddling with knees against the gunwales and legs crossed.   Since installing a foot brace in my own solo, I wish tandem rentals had them as well. MB

I can see that in a TRUE solo canoe. My tandem solo is too wide and my legs are too ;) ;D ;D short.

Jimbo,
  That lure would make me JUMP into the canoe if I was a self-respecting LT rather than trying to eat it.  ;) :o :P ;D

Jimbo wrote on May 10^th, 2019 at 5:51pm:

ST & All - Just by chance, I have a "special duty" lake trout lure that, well, er, uh... just happens to be pink!  I confess that I rarely deploy it, unless conditions are exceptional and ONLY if I'm after TRUE lunkers.  This one-of-a-kind lake pink trout lure (briefly marketed as "Magic Bait") was custom-made for me by the famed, legacy QJ'er and Owner, Chief Engineer & President of Operations for Bo-Tie Jigs, better known to long-time QJer's as the one, the only, the legendary "QueticoPassage." Though you may be pink with envy, please be advised that QP is under a strict, iron-clad agreement to produce replicas of this now vintage "collector's item" for me & only me.  Boo-hoo for you! See attached pic. Jimbo   8-)

I should add that the effectiveness of my pink flamingo lake trout lure (a.k.a. "Magic Bait") is enhanced when deployed with a variety of complementary items (sold separately), such as: pink buoys, pink balloons, pink whirl-a-gigs.  These associated items, when spread out upon a trout-bearing lake's surface, somehow drive the larger, lunker-sized lakers in to a feeding frenzy.  Thus, they lash out aggressively at at the flashy pink invader jigging away in the depths of their territory.

Sip your favorite pink cocktail from your affiliated pink goblet while trolling and the trout will practically jump into the boat with you!

Jimbo   8-)

Jimbo wrote on May 10^th, 2019 at 6:04pm:

Jimbo wrote on May 10th, 2019 at 5:51pm: ST & All - Just by chance, I have a "special duty" lake trout lure that, well, er, uh... just happens to be pink!  I confess that I rarely deploy it, unless conditions are exceptional and ONLY if I'm after TRUE lunkers.  This one-of-a-kind lake pink trout lure (briefly marketed as "Magic Bait") was custom-made for me by the famed, legacy QJ'er and Owner, Chief Engineer & President of Operations for Bo-Tie Jigs, better known to long-time QJer's as the one, the only, the legendary "QueticoPassage." Though you may be pink with envy, please be advised that QP is under a strict, iron-clad agreement to produce replicas of this now vintage "collector's item" for me & only me.  Boo-hoo for you! See attached pic. Jimbo   8-) I should add that the effectiveness of my pink flamingo lake trout lure (a.k.a. "Magic Bait") is enhanced when deployed with a variety of complementary items (sold separately), such as: pink buoys, pink balloons, pink whirl-a-gigs.  These associated items, when spread out upon a trout-bearing lake's surface, somehow drive the larger, lunker-sized lakers in to a feeding frenzy.  Thus, they lash out aggressively at at the flashy pink invader jigging away in the depths of their territory. Sip your favorite pink cocktail from your affiliated pink goblet while trolling and the trout will practically jump into the boat with you! Jimbo   8-)

Well I’ve never posted about using the ‘Magic Bait’ because I didn’t want to provoke jealousy among fellow inuks. Bo sent me a couple of those over a decade ago and they are a vital part of my arsenal. Many will be skeptical, just as many seem to be skeptical of my paddle/rod paddling/jigging method. The proof is in the pudding as they say. Sometimes the craziest methods and lures work the best.  8-)

This same technique also works great for waldos. ;)

Salt.....I do believe, I do believe, I do believe!   If it doesn't work out I just put the rod back into the holder.  I hereby challenge any fish out there to try to take my rod/paddle combo from me!  >:( We'll see who's in the frying pan at the end of the day.   :)

I troll with rod resting in front of knee, butt of rod braced against opposite heel. In my solo I can put the rod in front of the thwart and the butt against the foot brace- the tension of pulling the lure holding it in place.

No need to worry about hook set (sharp or not). The laker thinks its grabbing a 2oz minnow but instead has attached itself to (in the case of a tandem) some 500# of  boat/paddler/gear. Gotta be a shock on the system.

Solus wrote on May 13^th, 2019 at 1:46pm:

I troll with rod resting in front of knee, butt of rod braced against opposite heel. In my solo I can put the rod in front of the thwart and the butt against the foot brace- the tension of pulling the lure holding it in place. No need to worry about hook set (sharp or not). The laker thinks its grabbing a 2oz minnow but instead has attached itself to (in the case of a tandem) some 500# of  boat/paddler/gear. Gotta be a shock on the system.

  If your using braided line that shock hits them right away. If you've never used braid there is a learning curve when it comes to setting the hook.

Unlike mono with that stretch that you learn to set the hook with a hard jerk, with braid you do that you'll often lose the fish because you jerk the bait right out of its mouth.
I see the rod tip bend slowly I know fish is on. Just pick up and start reeling.

If you get a nice laker on or any large fish using braided line there is nothing slow about the rod tip bending.  Your drag will be singing and sometimes inexperienced anglers will think they have a rock.  Last spring I had a 30 seconds conversation with a novice about whether he had a fish or a rock.  After 30 seconds he agreed that he had a fish.  Unfortunately, he lost the fish so we never determined the size of the fish.  It is easy to tell.  If your canoe is moving and your drag is not singing you have a fish.  If any movement makes the drag sing you have a rock.

Solus wrote on May 13^th, 2019 at 1:46pm:

No need to worry about hook set (sharp or not). The laker thinks its grabbing a 2oz minnow but instead has attached itself to (in the case of a tandem) some 500# of  boat/paddler/gear. Gotta be a shock on the system.

Agreed. Even trolling with 8# mono I don't purposely set the hook while trolling. If anything I'll take an extra stroke. Using barbless, it seems to me you'd be just be making the holes bigger.

Just out of Cirrus Lake, lots of Lakers to be caught if you can stay over deep water. We marked them between 25 and 75, most at 75.Trolling F18 Rapalas and deep diving Thundersticks worked. Very calm conditions helped.

Nice!

i use braid and like longer rods, 7ft is the shortest ive taken up there in years. when i take a dedicated trolling rod (line counter) instead of multi purposing a baitcaster or spinning, its 9ft. i do use a 6ft 12# mono leader for trolling.

to me, rod holders are a must, but i own my canoe, so they are mounted permanently. having them mounted securely where they are easily accessible is quite important to me. ive never had a fish hit and questioned whether it was a fish or not, its always a ruckus.

im a big fan of lures that dart and have an erratic action on their own. hot n tots are my favorite. they hook well, have great colors and have great action. the rapala scatter series, especially the taildancers, are also great. i still pluck my line occasionally to get the extra darting in the lure.

for jigging i like big hair jigs, 1/2-3/4oz.

I just want to add my two cents on using a mono leader for trolling for the benefit of guests to this site.  Lots of people use mono leaders and they all think that they catch more fish because of the mono leader is harder for fish to see.  I personally see no benefit to using a mono leader.  I know lots of people on this site will disagree with me.  I just think that braided line is so much better than mono.  So if you are new to trolling for lake trout go ahead and use braided line tied directly to a snap.  In my opinion there is no benefit to using a mono leader and several disadvantages.

Westwood wrote on Jul 12^th, 2019 at 7:51pm:

I just want to add my two cents on using a mono leader for trolling for the benefit of guests to this site.  Lots of people use mono leaders and they all think that they catch more fish because of the mono leader is harder for fish to see.  I personally see no benefit to using a mono leader.  I know lots of people on this site will disagree with me.  I just think that braided line is so much better than mono.  So if you are new to trolling for lake trout go ahead and use braided line tied directly to a snap.  In my opinion there is no benefit to using a mono leader and several disadvantages.

I thought is was more for the give or stretch at the hook set so it doesn't rip out of the mouth. I gave up on mono mainly because of the "memory" and line tangles.  I'm trying Berkley's "Nanofil" line on one of my reels this summer.  It is not mono or braid and absolutely limp with no memory.  The knock on it is that it nicks or abrades easily. It's very very thin diameter too.

TomT wrote on Jul 13^th, 2019 at 2:47am:

Westwood wrote on Jul 12th, 2019 at 7:51pm: I just want to add my two cents on using a mono leader for trolling for the benefit of guests to this site.  Lots of people use mono leaders and they all think that they catch more fish because of the mono leader is harder for fish to see.  I personally see no benefit to using a mono leader.  I know lots of people on this site will disagree with me.  I just think that braided line is so much better than mono.  So if you are new to trolling for lake trout go ahead and use braided line tied directly to a snap.  In my opinion there is no benefit to using a mono leader and several disadvantages. I thought is was more for the give or stretch at the hook set so it doesn't rip out of the mouth. I gave up on mono mainly because of the "memory" and line tangles.  I'm trying Berkley's "Nanofil" line on one of my reels this summer.  It is not mono or braid and absolutely limp with no memory.  The knock on it is that it nicks or abrades easily. It's very very thin diameter too.

If your a fan of braid or you want to try it, give this a look see. I have it in #15 on my spinning reel I use around here for bass. Half the cost of name brand braid, I think it's as good or better than other braids I've used.

The reviews seem to agree, if you take that into your buying decision?

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I use 10-12# mono when trolling whether it’s for lakers, waldos or anything. I want the stretch to absorb the shock to enable better reaction time to get the fish headed to me. Often, at the strike, the canoe is heading one way and the fish is heading another way. It’s not possible to instantly stop the canoes momentum and grab the rod to fight the fish in that same instant.

Your mileage may vary. I have no quarrel with those who use braids or other lines. 8-)

Old Salt wrote on Jul 13^th, 2019 at 3:28am:

I use 10-12# mono when trolling whether it’s for lakers, waldos or anything. I want the stretch to absorb the shock to enable better reaction time to get the fish headed to me. Often, at the strike, the canoe is heading one way and the fish is heading another way. It’s not possible to instantly stop the canoes momentum and grab the rod to fight the fish in that same instant. Your mileage may vary. I have no quarrel with those who use braids or other lines. 8-)

One of the first things you learn about braid when you switch from mono is you better have your drag set right. Without that stretch, you get a big fish on or hit a snag you're going to either break the line or if you're not paying attention that rod might go for a swim.  ;) ;D ;D

My brother learned another valuable lesson about  braid. He was landing a big bass and made the mistake of wrapping the braid around his hand like he used to do with mono to take up slack while he lipped the LMB. He had a nice bloody ring around his wrist to remind him not to do THAT again. :-? :'( ;D

I switched to braid a while ago.  My only complaint is cutting it.  I was using a high end "snipper" but had trouble so am going with a scissors this time.

TomT wrote on Jul 13^th, 2019 at 11:37am:

I switched to braid a while ago.  My only complaint is cutting it.  I was using a high end "snipper" but had trouble so am going with a scissors this time.

I have a snipper that cuts it okay but eventually, you get that little fuzzball at the end. I've been using a BIC lighter lately and I'm thinking that is the way to go conditions permitting.

im glad that my mono leader comments got some more discussion going.

the reason i use the leader is for a few different purposes.
1. knots. its much easier to tie knots with mono because theres no messing with scissors or lighters
2. intentional breakoffs. i have 40# braid on all my rigs. (sufix 832, 10# mono diameter to match precision trollings data) breaking 40# braid is a chore, so having a place in my line system that i can pop free without destroying my hand or paddle is nice, but its still plenty strong for fish.
3. visibility. i troll and fish in lots of lakes all over wisconsin, and it definitely helps in those places. it not really needed up in the Q, but im proficient with it, so its not worth changing when i can pick up a couple extra fish or two because of it. bite offs are a non issue because with barbless and floating cranks, they float right back up. waiting around a couple extra minutes in a fishy spot gets you a few more casts...

its not about being a 'shock absorber.' thats what the long rods do. properly setting the drag is very important as well. it needs to be looser than you think. and there is no 'hook set' while trolling. the fish striking and the rod bending does all that for you.

Nice report PK.
Funny stuff about the squirrel topic.
Some observations on the line topic.  Just got back from WCPP.  I'm an old mono guy but spooled on some braided stuff to give it a try.  Personally, I didn't like the feel of it. But talk about feel!  I could detect a rock, bite, etc. much, much better than mono.  The jury is still out as to which way I'll go in the future.
Just an aside.....I tried the hold your rod with the paddle troll/jigging technique.  I use a double blade paddle and was using a level wind reel.  I caught lake trout, northern and walleye doing this although we didn't troll too much.  All were caught on a larger hair jig.  Kinda fun as the northern almost pulled to rod out of my grip!
Safe travels.......Mike