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The Sylvania Wilderness is a fine place to go, however, if you go expecting the BWCA or Quetico, you will be very disappointed. First to answer your question, "are permits needed?". Yes, and you need to get them very early. I think the last I knew you had to have a permit no later than May 15th and there were no "walk-ins". Furthrmore, the campsites are assigned on the permit. You don't go looking for a campsite (that can be good). If you want to make a loop, you need to plan it out, and coordinate your itinerary with the sites you're assigned. Total length of stay is limited to 14 days, which is probably not enough time to portage into all the accessible lakes and make side excursions off on the more remote hiking trails. Group size is limited to 5, although 2 groups can travel together but must have their own sites.
All portage trails are clear and well marked and seldom exceed a half-mile in length. The loop from Crooked Lake to Mountain, East Bear, West Bear, Kerr, and High lakes, is accomplished with six portages that probably add up to a total of less than half a mile. The other major loop--from Clark to Loon, Fisher, Florence, Big Bateau, Cub, and Deer Island--requires several slightly longer portages, but none that are difficult for anyone in reasonably good physical condition. Actually a walk-in-the-park compared to the BWCA and Q.
There are a lot of fishing regulations.
Unlike the BWCA, there is soil under foot. You can get a tent stake into the ground. Trees are mature and big and, unlike the BWCA, many hardwoods. Fire pit. Box latrine.
I always thought it a great place for a relaxed weekend, or to take kids to, or to take newbies to canoe camping to, etc.
I recommend Sylvania, but IMHO it is more of a state park canoe trail than a wilderness.
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