10 Wilderness Waterway (Read 9129 times)
flpaddler
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Wilderness Waterway
Jun 26th, 2003 at 5:41am
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The wilderness Waterway Runs from Port Everglades to Flamingo, 100 miles of mangroves, lots of wading birds, porpise and gators.  You can camp on chickees or on some of the islands in the Gulf. I've paddle this area for the last 8 years and it has always been rewarding. The best time to go is in the middle of the winter when the bugs are few and far in between. Fishing is excellent Trout, Mangrove Snaper, Snook, and you can be rewarded with a Tarpon.
  
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chaga
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Re: Wilderness Waterway
Reply #1 - Feb 9th, 2004 at 12:11pm
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Heading down there in Oct. 2004 and looking for all the info I can accumulate. Any warm climate paddlers out there? Jeff
  
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troutbreath
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Re: Wilderness Waterway
Reply #2 - Feb 9th, 2004 at 4:44pm
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The wilderness Waterway Runs from Port Everglades to Flamingo, 100 miles of mangroves, lots of wading birds, porpise and gators.


This sounds like a lot of fun but GATORS?????  how does the camping work out.

BTW - it is not fair that you are talking about paddling now when most of the water in Minnesota is solid for the first 14"!!

TB
  
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chaga
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Re: Wilderness Waterway
Reply #3 - Feb 9th, 2004 at 10:26pm
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I'm thinking the gators could be an issue. I know there are platforms built along the route for camping but some sites are on islands. Still in the early stages of research. Canoe/kayak camping in Florida is great, only done saltwater so the gators have not been a problem. The racoons are worse than BW bears....BTW... it was 5 above here today,...bad cabin fever...Jeff
  
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flpaddler
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Re: Wilderness Waterway
Reply #4 - Feb 4th, 2006 at 3:30pm
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On Saturday the 21st of January I picked my long time paddling and backpacking partner Bruce up at Palm Beach International Airport. We reminisced about past adventures, and talked of trips to come on our way back to my home in Port St. Lucie, Florida.
For the next two days we would check our gear for duplication, do our shopping, dry our meals and plan our 1st, 2nd, and 3rd choice of routes through the 10,000 Islands area / Wilderness Waterway.
Tuesday morning we were up at 4:00 am and on the road heading south at 4:30 for the three hour drive to Everglades City. The most interesting part of the drive is turning west to cross the Everglades on the 4 lane highway known as Alligator Alley. The River of Grass is absolutely breath taking, when bathed in the early morning golden light. Traveling across this highway brought back fond memories of my youth as a Boy Scout and traveling then the two lane highway flanked by canals on our way to Big Cypress for a weekend camping trip.
Everglades City is the northern most jumping off point for the 100 mile long Wilderness Waterway and the location of the Gulf Coast Visitors Center where you file your trip plans and pay your fees. Unlike traveling the BW of Quetico they allow no reservations and everything must be done in person. Arriving at the Visitors Center at 7:30 a half hour prior to their opening and only one party ahead of us gave us a good chance for getting our primary route choice. To my surprise our choice for the 1st nights stop was booked as was the 2nd, so we resorted to our 3rd choice which would take us to Mormon Key an eighteen mile paddle. After paying our party usage fee of $10.00, and a camping fee of $2.00 a night each, we headed to the Ivey House to pick up Bruce’s rental and do some gift shopping for the families. There was no real rush because we planed on catching the high slack tide at 11:00 from the Ivey Houses private launch area and use the out going tide to push us out into the Gulf of Mexico about a 10 mile paddle.
Unlike most of our trips we stuck right to our schedule and took our first strokes at 11:00 in the slack tide down the canal under the bridge and out into Chokoloskee Bay.  We cross the bay and take the last cut out. As you entered the cuts that will take you out into the Gulf of Mexico you need to be very careful keeping your eye on the mangrove keys and your map it is very easy to get disoriented if you are not familiar with the area.
Our 1st stop will be Turtle Key at the very edge of the gulf, Turtle is a non designated camping area but is perfect spot for lunch with its sandy beach.
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After lunch we still have another 8.5 miles of paddling to reach Mormon Key which will take us over two four mile sections open gulf water into a 14 mph head wind.
We finally make land fall at Mormon Key just before 5:00, and have the beach to ourselves. Mormon Key got its name from the first known white settler Richard Hamilton and one of his two wives who settled there in the late 1800’s. We get busy setting camp, and I start dinner of caramelized onions, brazed pork chops, Cuban black beans and jasmine rice, while Bruce finds firewood.
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After dinner we enjoy a platy around a beach fire and talk of tomorrows paddle to Highland Beach.
flp
  
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Kingfisher
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Re: Wilderness Waterway
Reply #5 - Feb 4th, 2006 at 11:35pm
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Keep it comin' FLP
  
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flpaddler
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Re: Wilderness Waterway
Reply #6 - Feb 5th, 2006 at 7:44pm
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We are up at 5am this morning getting the camp broken down and gear stowed into the hatches of our kayaks. Tradition has it that our 1st breakfast in the backcountry consists of, what I call a heart attack on a roll (fried eggs, bacon, and cheese on a hard roll) washed down with strong black coffee prepared in a Nalgene Bottle using a French Press insert. This was suppose to be the last of our fresh food for the next 5 days, relying on prepared meals that I dehydrated. As we eat the sun is rising over the mangroves and a glassy gulf. By 7:00 we are ready to make a short 25’ drag across the mud flats and are in the kayaks 15 minutes later paddling against a slight sea breeze. With day time temperatures predicted to be in the low 70’s and winds out of the east gusting to 25 mph we are trying to make as much distance this morning as possible, there is nothing like paddling a small craft in pitching seas.
Today’s paddle will take us south along the coast 15 miles to Highland Beach which is known for its several miles of white sand beaches. Highland Beach was settled in the 1880’s where the inhabitants would harvest the wild growing royal palms that now decorate the byways of Ft. Myers. The harvested royal palms were moved on roads that were cut through the thick jungle. (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
Passing between Turkey Key and New Turkey Key I spot a pod of dolphin working the shoals between the two Keys, they appear to be paying no attention to our progress until one of the dolphins pops up along side of my kayak and we make eye contact, what incredible animals they are.
I turn to watch Bruce as he stops, pulls out his fishing rod and starts working the calm water over the shoal where the dolphins had been. I have moved out of the protection of Turkey Key into the  shifting wind which is now out the east and gaining strength, I continue on the next 5 miles on my own to Hog Key where we are to meet for lunch. Two years ago we spent the night here and were awaken by the grunts of feral hogs that this key is named for. (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
After an hour has past I begin to get a little concerned until I spot this yellow speck on the water rounding the peninsula, as Bruce grows closer I see that he is wearing a smile from ear to ear. I yell out to him asking him where he’s been and he produces a stringer with three sea trout from 15 to 20 inches.
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I guess there will be fish for dinner tonight!
After lunch we continue a 7 miles paddle south to Highland where we make land fall around 3:00, and set camp. Bruce and I set off to explore the beach where Bruce discovers an antique bottle intact, one of those bottles that use a cork top to seal it. I find the beach covered with deer tracks and tracks of those ever present raccoons. The raccoons of the gulf are well known to travelers there for pilfering of food and especially fresh water which is in short supply. Visitors to this area should take special care of their water supply raccoons have been known to puncture soft sided water containers to get to the contents.
Upon returning to camp I go about the chore of preparing Bruce’s catch for dinner, while he gathers wood for our evening fire. The filets of sea trout is seasoned with lemon pepper and blackened in olive oil and margarine, the fish is served up with reconstituted hominy and string beans. We eat and watch a magnificent gulf sunset.
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Tomorrow we are off to Lost Mans 5.
  
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flpaddler
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Re: Wilderness Waterway
Reply #7 - Feb 7th, 2006 at 8:20am
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Day 3 Lostman’s Five

Last nights festivities take a toll on both Bruce and I, not crawling out of our tents till the sun was over the horizon. We had spent the night sitting around a beach fire doing shots of Jose and drinking hot apple cider laced with Black Seal Rum, there had been no one else camping on the beach so we can get a wee bit crazy without fear of disturbing anyone’s solitude.
This morning we are in no hurry, the tide had turned at 6:00 and there was 50 yards of mud flats, worm coral and oyster beds still exposed. Our plans called for us not to break camp until 10:00 so that we could take advantage of the incoming tide which would aide in negotiating Lostmans River. Today’s route will take us 4 miles back north along the coast and then 8 miles east up the river. The Lostmans River twists and turns through a maze of black mangroves with numerous shoals that offer many chances to spot wading birds and alligators that can be seen sunning themselves on the banks and shoals. (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
I break down my tent and stow my gear after putting water on to boil for our meager instant oatmeal breakfast and strong black coffee. By the time we are packed and have eaten our breakfast the tide had risen enough to float our kayaks and we line to deeper water. The morning breeze is out of the east and with today’s weather prediction calling for gust to 22 mph, partly cloudy skies, and temperatures in the mid to upper 70’s.
The 4 miles to the mouth of Lostmans River goes by quickly with the aide of the incoming tide, preparing to turn east into the river, I notice the remains of a cistern, which for the early inhabitants of the area was the sole source of fresh water, we consider the possibility of stopping to investigate, this would certainly put us off our schedule, so we decide to paddle on.
We enter the river now paddling east into the wind as it starts to pick up negating the effect of the incoming tide that had been pushing us along. It’s now noon so our attention turns to the subject of lunch and where we should stop. Bruce remembers a shoal that at high tide is only a few inches deep, we had stopped here 3 years ago to rest the shoal being only another mile and around a bend it is really the only place we could take lunch even if we had to sit in kayaks to eat.
Rounding the bend the shoal appears on river left and to our surprise is already occupied by some locals.
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Well after seeing these two we did the only thing that two insane paddlers could do, we got out for stretching and some noshing, the 5 footer entered the water with a splash and the 6 footer took his time checking us out to see if we would make an easy meal.
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I would never try this in the month of May which is the alligators mating season and they become very territorial.
After an interesting lunch and with only 4 miles to Lostmans Five our site for the night we push off. We arrive at Lostmans Five at 3:00 and start unloading the boats. Lostman Five was the sight of a boat landing that was operated by Poinciana Land Development Company, where in 1925, they would bring prospective buyers to see the area. In September of 1926, before they named hurricanes the area was struck by what would be known as the "Big Blow", packing winds of 150 mph, thus ending the grand idea for the Miami of the Gulf. 
Lostmans Five is protected from the wind on three sides by the thick mangroves forest and has a northwest view. The site is listed as an improved site having two raised platforms with an adjoining walkway each platform having enough room for a party of four. The site also offers a privy, 2 tables and a dock making this a favorite camping spot for the fishing guides who bring their customers in on flats boats to ply the inland waters.
Bruce grabs his fishing rod and heads up the Lostmans Five River for some more fishing and a little exploring. I decide to stay and have a look around the camp when poking around I spot an epiphyte or air plant in bloom it’s growing on a tree at the very edge of the camp near the bay.      
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An hour and a half passes before Bruce returns to camp with no fish in the creel. I set about preparing chicken quesadillas and fiesta rice for dinner. We finish dinner and Bruce cleans the dishes, while I go about preparing hot toddies for the two of us. We walk out onto the dock in a light breeze to watch the sunset over Lostmans Bay while enjoying the warm drinks. (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
Lingering on the dock as the stars start to appear in the clear cool moonless sky we talked of our next trip to Minnesota and Quetico.

Day 4 North to Watson’s Place
  
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Spartan2
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Re: Wilderness Waterway
Reply #8 - Feb 7th, 2006 at 10:44am
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I am really enjoying your trip, flpaddler!
  
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The_Beaver
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Re: Wilderness Waterway
Reply #9 - Feb 7th, 2006 at 1:38pm
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I am really enjoying your trip, flpaddler!


Ditto. Great report and what a wonderful place to paddle. Can't wait for my Keys trip...leave 1 month from today...

The Beaver
  
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