There is a lot of good advise already posted....so I'l just add my two cents. 

I think al ot of what you do, need to be based on your desired outcome.

I have a cedardstripper that has required, pretty much every type of repair needed, including areas of glass replacement, but that is always a last resort.

It appears that most of yhe scratches on your boat are rather superficial.  A light  sanding will remove most of the scratches without ever reached the kevlar. 

The deeper scratches that have actually damaged the kevlar most likely will never disappear without being replaced.  That doesn't meant that you can't fill the scratches and still have a good smooth surface.

I would reccomend that after a light sand you will know which of the scratches need to be filled.  Now take duct tape and suround the are that needs to be filled.  Epoxy that area.  When the epoxy is cured, remove the tape and you will have a patch that extends the depth of the tape above the working surface of the canoe.  Now sand the filled area down smooth with the remaining surface. 

One that is completed, you can do a nice coat of resign over the whole surface and your boat will be as good as new...with the exception of a few beauty marks!

Good luck...IM me if you need further explanation or want further details.

-Brad

After looking at your pictures I wouldn't do anything. Nice patina. Makes you look like a real tripper.

Generally before and after trips, look close and if you see anywhere you think the core could get wet, repair just that area. Think of the core as a cardboard box that's taped closed. Pretty stiff, if the cardboard doesn't get wet. If you think the core is, or was wet, let it dry a good long while before doing a repair. If the core ever gets wet and starts feeling spongy in that area, look for some experienced help before replacing parts of the core.

Hey geof.....Fineline tape (good paint shop of auto body supply shop-expensive but worth it IMHO) works great for the intial edge on the masking then regular blue masking tape for the balance. Be sure that you have good adhesion to the hull with the tape so that the exoxy does not migrate/wick under the tape....the etoh alcohol cleaning will help a long with a good amount of pressure when applying the tape will solve this issue. The fineline tape will also help you to make nice clean curves to the epoxy area. The masking will also allow one to sand the area neatly, as you will have a line to sand to. Be sure to remove the tape when the epoxy is still somewhat green....big mess otherwise with a lot more work when you have to remove masking-maybe you want the blue pin stripping . The West system has good UV resistant so IMHO not need for a UV resistant coating on top of the west system. The graphite additive looks neato but it is graphite and continues to shed after the expoxy cures( take a pencil and rub in on your hand and you will see what I mean), and it is actually a friction midagating additive and may not be necessary in your case and application, IMHO. Never tried the credit card application techinque but it makes total sense to me in "lou" of the roller  and or brush application. IMHO I dont think that I would fade out the edge via sanding, the edge height will be a function of the epoxy coat thinkness. As far as the second coat it is up to you and your intentions of this project-if a second coat is applied expand the second coat area outside of the first coat-this will help the fade out and the edge height=be sure to sand again before the second coat as the first coat will have a film on it as part of it's curing process. The point spoken to in regard to the core is similar to the kevlar fabric taking on water, I am not sure about the material the core is constructed out of....in Bell's it is a spun synthetic fabric or a rigid foam depending on the  lay-up and lay-up method. Remember water is heavy and an oxidizer and keepin' the water out of the lay-up is a good thing. I am all for West as I have not had a bad experience with the system and have used it quite a bit, the slow will be stronger as you have been informed. Hope this helps. M

Riversend wrote on May 4^th, 2009 at 1:25am:


Hey THANKS........

I'm getting ready to update my site with some more photos.....I upgraded my site to a "gold" member, so I now get something like 10gb of space..........wohoo.......

Later,

Geo

db wrote on May 5^th, 2009 at 5:45am:


DB.....the pump system makes it pretty much idiot proof to mix the stuff....and I'm an IDIOT........so I need it......

AND I'm not too sure about how fast, so I posted another quick thread about that.......

I'm getting pumped........and hope to get started/finished by the end of the week.

Thanks,

Geo