OK........I was told to use 105 / 205........whatever the HELL that is....    


I guess this stuff sets up pretty quickly.......so I need some other ideas.

1).  Is that the stuff I should be using.......if not WHAT.

2).  Are their other options.  I've read a little on west's website, but I'd like opinions from those who have done it.

I'm headed out later today to get the stuff.......any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Geo

Thanks........

I was thinking the 205 is too fast...........I ended up getting both.....I figure I can use 205 to start with.....the "crack" repairing, and get a "feel" for how fast it will be.

After that, I figure if 205 is GOOD, I will finish up with 205, otherwise, I will move onto 206.

Thanks,

Geo

GeoF, One nice thing about the slower hardner, it gives you time to have your panic attack and still recover enough to still do the right thing.  

Work on a small cut or area. Build some confidence in what you're working with and the time it takes. Keep your batches of mix small. Give it time to cure. No rush.

If you think your job is making you nervous. One of may first experiences was I cut a hole in the bottom of a brand new never been wet racing canoe to install a Andersen Bailer. Talk about measure twice.

Don't even think that one of those bailers will work in tripping canoes. Hydrostatic pressure is exponential. Even a heavy slower race team can keep it from working right, let alone a tripping canoe full of gear.

The 207 is the non yellowing form, it will stay gin clear.Geo try using the razor b4 you epoxy for the standing fibers. Please wear gloves so you dont become the hands on chemist Good luck with your project.

If you have trouble with the cutting/shaving kevlar fibers? Remember you can just wet the fuzz with a small amount of epoxy and tape it down with clear box tape. After it hardens, remove the tape and do your larger area coats.