If you're in the TC's - I'd suggest you go over to Northwest Canoe and discuss with them. They sell cedar-strip building supplies and epoxy - and they do boat repair.  They'll point you in the right direction.

For West System - 105 is the resin , the 2.. is the hardner that turns the stuff into glue/solid.  There are different hardners for diff needs.

Recoating the bottom of a canoe isn't rocket science - but a really-quick curing epoxy might be hard to work with.

I use 105 which is the resin, and 206 which is the slower hardner.

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The push down plunger pumps you see in the link also meter the resin and hardner. One stroke resin, one stroke hardner, easy. Just leave the pumps on, nothing dries out. It's ready the next time.

thanks guys...........

I started the process.............and I'm quickly finding out even the not so deep scratches are causing the kevlar to stand up........

I'm thinking after I do the first coat, I will need to go over the canoe and check for "standers" and shave them off.

I understand now about "pot smoke"..........WOW...........10 minutes and I had a freakin smokin, burnin my damn hand mess...........    

BUT.......it is started.

Later,

Geo

Shave? Like with a cabinet scraper, safety blade or a Gillette Quatro?

Here's the West Marine options:
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Yikes that stuff is pricey! Honestly, a syringe of the half or one hour (whatever) epoxy will easily coat the entire bottom of a canoe. Use a margarine tub for a mixing pot ... comes right off when cured should you wish to reuse it. 

So........how long should the epoxy still be tacky.............

I did the coat about 24 hrs ago, but it is not completely setup..........

Fingerprints still set in the epoxy..........just wondering.

Outside temps have been 50 overnight and 65 high.........got to 80 today........


Thanks,

Geo

It is the gillete type, b4 you coat the the boat with epoxy....b4 the "standers" stand up.....shave that boat it has whiskers ...you might have to sand again to free them up . The set time on the epoxy is being stretched out by the temps.....warm it up and it will go. Yes the west is expensive....but it is tough as H, has the UV, etc. Done the tape thing...IMHO it is easier to shave b4 the epoxy application. I have worked with this system a bunch with the paddles and boats. Did your pot set geof? If It did increase the temps and the epoxy on the hull will set.....If it did not you have a problem and a mess to clean up as you did not mix it correctly.....the slow can be slow when spread thin.....temperature decrease Warm it up and walk away....she'll set. The fast can be super fast depending on the day....have it to slow for your taste is a heck of a lot easier to deal with than having go to fast....gives to time to kick back and enjoy yourself and the work that you are doing

Geo....to coin an old phrase...."this thread is useless without pics"....post 'em please.

GeoFisher wrote on May 9^th, 2009 at 4:31am:

Personally, I like the two due to the descriptive titles.

db wrote on May 8^th, 2009 at 5:40am:

Wow that looks thick! I'm surprised it took so long to cure.

Is that blushing or a reflection?

Yep there is a learning curve with the west, but you you got the playing with it in.....LOOKS GOOD! The epoxy pulled due to the lack of sanding to the edge...try fineline/edging tape next time and the edge will not be so thick as it is when using masking/painters tape.