Snow_Dog wrote on May 9^th, 2010 at 11:15am:


I had good luck with Truck Utilities, 2370 English Street, Maplewood, MN‎. 
(651) 484-3305‎ 

They fabricated and welded a 15' extension to the tongue of my trailer.  (I converted a utility trailer to a canoe trailer.)  I used wood to build the canoe racks on my trailer, but if you want metal ones, I'd check with them.  They're good to deal with. 

prouboy

Or treated lumber & hardware...

 Another possible option, is have your local steel supplier/fabricator, cut your steel square stock to your specs. Use this paint to rustproof the steel, then clamp. drill and bolt with Stainless bolts and nuts, the kind with the nylon lock washer built in. Then just touch up any spots you may have missed.

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Follow the prep directions too the letter. This stuff is like ceramic when hardened. Not cheap, but will last a lifetime if applied correctly.

Fastnall for the hardware....they have a locations on west side. It's where the local hardware stores get there's from. You buy by by the box, more money less per piece. Check pricing its been awhile.
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Solotripper- hows does the stuff hold up with UV?

If you decide to go the drill and fastener method in Stainless...buy extra drill bits and use a cutting solution to cool bit...and dont over torque the stainless hardware it will fail...think no stretch because it dont as much as standard steel hardware.

I wish I could put you on to the individual who sprayed the bed liner but they don't provide the service any longer...running it side by side with another similar product but the bed liner is a proprietary product not available any longer...bomber stuff

I agree with Android in regard to the treated lumber....Oak paints up nice...and the "rock hard" coating that solo spoke of with a UV safe top coat might be long term too. Siwek in Belle Plain or Timm's in Lindale would be local sources and I believe they can cut and surface for a price...Timm's is a smaller outfit, nice guy-he might have Douglas Fir drops available-strong for lighter weight and a little better rot resistance...but that will not matter to much if all sides are pre-finished; mind the holes too.

Pick your media and acknowledge your abilities/tool limitations/and the lifetime of the creation that you are after. Forever?

Quote:


The website explains it better than I can, but the quick answer is that IF the area is exposed to the sun, you need a top-coat dressing over the Por-15, which will take care of the UV problem.

You need to use the materials they sell to prep metal, then Por-15 and top coat as called for. I'd use the semi-gloss chassis top coat on the trailer.
My brother turned me on to this stuff. A friend of his uses it for restoring cars from the frame up. He ( my brother's friend) was skeptical at first. He bought the little starter kit, and painted a chink of rusty scrap metal.
After it had cured, he tried every solvent that would dissolve/ruin normal paint. Nothing worked. To clean it off, he had to sandblast it !
They caution you to wear latex gloves and avoid contact on skin. Once it dries, only time will remove it  They sell cheap disposable brushes, it's not worth trying to clean good ones.

They make a fire resistant paint manifold paint and other specialty products for marine/home/auto.  They have a wheel dressing that comes in a can. Unlike the stuff from the auto stores, this will last ALL summer and look like brand knew.

I highly recommend it. Buy a starter kit, and see for yourself.