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 25 Big Agnes Pad and Bag (Read 25311 times)
Preacher
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Re: Big Agnes Pad and Bag
Reply #10 - Aug 20th, 2010 at 6:19pm
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Joe_Schmeaux wrote on Aug 19th, 2010 at 6:04pm:
Down bags will save you a little weight and a lot of space compared to synthetics, but (as mt says) they're not very comfortable if they accidentally get wet (not just in the canoe, but from tent leaks in the rain as well). I think any down or synthetic sleeping bag will fit into a 60 cm (2 ft) ziplock bag, much better than a stuff sack for water protection. If you don't have a spare big ziplock, the free trash bags that Ontario Parks hands out are perfect as an *extra* sleeping bag wrapper (they won't be 100% watertight).

Well cared for, down bags should last nearly forever. I've had a "-2 to -4" deg C bag for 30 years or so, and with occasional hand-washings with down soap and uncompressed storage (ie not in the stuff sack), the temperature rating is probably still close to original (ie probably close to a new 30 F bag). For summer trips, I find it too hot when I go to sleep at night, but not so bad in the early morning when I don't want to get up.

A 30 deg F bag is probably good if you plan a lot of shoulder season camping, but I'd go with something lighter (and probably synthetic) if I were looking at just summer use. I wouldn't buy a 15 deg F bag unless I was planning a lot of winter camping. I have always found it easier to make up for a bag that's a bit too thin for the conditions by putting on socks / tights / fleece (or worst case, opening up the space blanket) than trying to fine-tune a down bag that's too thick for the conditions. You can also buy an extra "overbag" to boost the insulation of a 30 F bag for trips where you're planning to use your canoe as an icebreaker.

My ThermaRest is 30 years old too, and I have never had any problems. It still looks nearly new, and keeps me warm even on well-frozen ground. It is a "first-generation", non-deluxe, and weighs 1100 g (about 2.5 lb).

I don't have any experience with the brand names mentioned by others in this thread, but $220 for a good down bag seems quite inexpensive. FWIW, here are links to REI and MEC's sleeping bag / pad advice pages. They say mostly the same thing.

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Great stuff.

I do take "Preacher" exception to the concept of something getting accidentally wet.  In 20 years of tripping I've never gotten anything wet that shouldn't/can't get wet.  It's all in how you pack.  If you don't waterproof your gear that shouldn't/can't get wet, you're asking for trouble.  It's no accident that my bed clothes & sleeping bag don't get wet, it's by design & intent & planning & preparation.

You can die of hypothermia in midsummer.
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"...the water was an uncommonly warm 21 C."
The weather was similarly warm, above 15C.
  
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mastertangler
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Re: Big Agnes Pad and Bag
Reply #11 - Sep 16th, 2010 at 11:26am
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Kingfisher wrote on Aug 15th, 2010 at 2:05pm:
Our 5 year old mattress has failed. It developed multiple seepage type leaks all on one end.



I have had some limited experience with using the pad now. The comments KF had made about failure were in the back of my mind as I went about utilizing arguably one of the most important pieces of camping equipment I own. I would be interested to learn at which end the failures developed.

While rolling this bag for storage air is trapped and released rather slowly through the valve as compared to a therm-a-rest, especially near the very end of the rolling/storage process. I noticed considerable pressure develop and if one wasn't a tad patient in allowing the air to escape I can envision some potential for "blow-out".

Just thinkin......what say you?
  
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Re: Big Agnes Pad and Bag
Reply #12 - Sep 16th, 2010 at 4:19pm
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I used the BA Insulated Air Core on my recent trip.  It was awesome.  To the point where I want to convert to the BA System as soon as I have the cash.

Very warm.  On warm nights I used my sleeping bag unzipped as a blanket.

Very comfortable.  Great support when sleeping on my back.  My hips never touched cold ground when sleeping on my side.

I really like the logic behind the system.  Sleeping bags are useless for ground insulation since it's all compressed by my considerable weight.  I don't get any benefit from 1/3 of my sleeping bag, but I'm dealing with the weight & volume of that useless 1/3.  As a tosser&turner I do slide off my pad and my mummy-style bag gets twisted about.
  
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Waterlily
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Re: Big Agnes Pad and Bag
Reply #13 - Sep 29th, 2010 at 4:12pm
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I've been using a -10C down bag for years now (from MEC- <$150!) and it's never let me down.  I've used it year round- I just use it as a blanket in warmer weather, or use a silk liner as a sheet and forego the bag altogther.  It's packed watertight in a neat compression/rolltop bag, and it's never been wet- totally agree with earlier post re: good planning/packing.

Extremely light, extremely versatile- Best investment in gear I ever made!

(proper storage is key- keep it clean, dry, and loose when not in use, and it should last for decades!)
  
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Waterlily
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Re: Big Agnes Pad and Bag
Reply #14 - Sep 29th, 2010 at 4:16pm
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And the Big Agnes setup look tempting! I'm also considering switching to the Air Core mat as well- glad to hear that others are happy with it.  I'm willing to pack a bit more for comfort, but my luxury thermarest weighs a ton and takes up too much space- one area I'd like to downsize- might help get my partner and I down to 1 trip each across the portage!  (I can dream, can't I??)

waterlily
  
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Wally13
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Re: Big Agnes Pad and Bag
Reply #15 - Oct 21st, 2010 at 4:43am
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I am pretty much a hot sleeper. Do you think an insulated Big Agnes Air Core with a 40 degree BA Yampa (650 goose down) would be too warm for a hot sleeper on a Mid June to Early July Quetico trip?  Have been using a Kelty 40 degree synthetic with a 2 inch Thermarest for many years. The BA system sounds appealing.
  
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mastertangler
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Re: Big Agnes Pad and Bag
Reply #16 - Oct 21st, 2010 at 12:15pm
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Wally13
I wish I had a dollar for every time my wife has said, "whew, you are a hot box". When I paddle and portage more often than not you will find me wearing a visor so I don't overheat and self combust. So I am in sympatico with you on the overheating issue.

So take it from me and get the fish hawk 30 degree bag. I too almost got the 40 degree bag for the identical reason but purchased the fish hawk and am so glad I didn't opt for the 40 bag.

First off, the rating system is flawed........as in overly optimistic. There is no way I would want to be in my 30 degree bag in 30 degree weather. Trust me. I had it in the low 40's this fall and while I stayed warm because of fleece hat, fleece socks and silk underwear, I was on the verge.

I also used it in the "Q" during early July and it was perfect. As some who have experience here on QJ have already suggested be sure and wear some type of underclothing at night lest the oils/dirt/grime/mud/bug spray/blood/fish slime/etc. soil your inner sanctuary. Grin

Oh, one last bit of advice.........when you roll your mat be careful to allow time for the trapped air to escape the valve. There are murmuring of air leaks at the ends. My suspicion, just a hunch mind you, is that inordinate amounts of pressure are being exerted when rolling the mat.

  
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solotripper
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Re: Big Agnes Pad and Bag
Reply #17 - Oct 21st, 2010 at 3:03pm
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Quote:
Oh, one last bit of advice.........when you roll your mat be careful to allow time for the trapped air to escape the valve. There are murmuring of air leaks at the ends. My suspicion, just a hunch mind you, is that inordinate amounts of pressure are being exerted when rolling the mat.


I think your probably right and you should use caution with any air filled type sleeping mat.

I don't know how other's go about it, but I use this method, and it seems to make the whole deflation/packing process work better.

I'm in the habit of packing all my sleep gear BEFORE I exit tent to make breakfast on travel days. Once I decide to roll out of bed, I open the air valve and allow my body weight to deflate the mattress as much as possible. Then I close valve and put bag/pillow in stuff sack. Then I start rolling the partially deflated air mattress leaving the valve closed until resistance is met. Then I open valve and finish rolling out air.

This makes for a quick deflate and keeps me from getting over zealous and possibly/probably putting to much air pressure on air valve seam end. I see the difference, but let others judge for themselves Wink
  
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Kingfisher
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Re: Big Agnes Pad and Bag
Reply #18 - Oct 22nd, 2010 at 5:31am
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Wait a minute, how can you put too much pressure on an inflated mat when you are letting the air out of it. It's only your body weight that you are using to help force the air out, the same body weight that is fully on the mat while you sleep with no relief valve open.
  
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mastertangler
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Re: Big Agnes Pad and Bag
Reply #19 - Oct 22nd, 2010 at 11:36am
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Kingfisher wrote on Oct 22nd, 2010 at 5:31am:
Wait a minute, how can you put too much pressure on an inflated mat when you are letting the air out of it. It's only your body weight that you are using to help force the air out, the same body weight that is fully on the mat while you sleep with no relief valve open.


The one thing that became apparent right away to me was how much less able the Big Agnes pad is able to allow air to escape via the valve versus my therm-a-rest. Roll a therm up and you hear a big "whoosh" every time another revolution in the roll process is achieved. Not so, IMO, with B.A.

My breakdown process is similar to ST and I suspect most other campers except that I make coffee first Wink. I release the valve, give it 5 minutes or so, and then lay on it and try and get as much air out initially as practical before I start the rolling process. I believe, and it is only my opinion, that the potential for creating the micro leaks occurs when the pad is 3/4 of the way rolled. The circumference of what is already rolled is able to exert considerable pressure on the trapped air which is not able to escape as quickly as the pressure being applied IF it is done too quickly.  Something has to give. That trapped air in the latter 1/4 of a mat being rolled quickly is under more pressure than when it is used in its usual purpose.

At least that is my observation. Again I could be wrong and the whole problem could be rooted in the "welding" process.

In any event it makes sense to me to allow the trapped air to escape before forcing another revolution. I only worry about it the last 1/4 of the process and it may only add another minute or two.  

   
  
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