"Setting The Trap" Basics on trolling part 2

Where were we. Oh yea, Rocket science and physics and other such nonsense. You may be thinking.... "I just want to catch a fish". Too much detail and for some it stops being fun right? Stay with me and it will become second nature and the end result is certainly worth it.

Back to physics. Even the word sounds intimidating doesn't it. Almost every action you do involves that word so don't fear it. Dip that paddle into the water and do a pry stroke or a J stroke and most certainly measurable physics has taken place. The $10 dollar question is how do we apply that to fishing and trolling more specifically.

Let's go back to the title, "setting the trap". When you picture the setting of a trap the first thing that should enter your mind is tightness. Like a coiled spring. Your presentation should be likewise. Nothing floppy or loose. For example, if you have a flexible rod and it is stuck out the side of the boat at a 90 degree angle then when Mr. fish bites the bend in the rod will absorb the energy up until the point where that bend reaches the thicker butt portion and the majority of the energy will only then transfer to the hook. By that time it is quite possible, in fact even likely, that the fish will spit the fake out.......... often without you even knowing.

So how do we achieve "getting tight"?
1) First off do yourself a favor and get a rod holder. There are many makes and models around. I have made it no secret I like the ram rod 2000 in the side mount model. Primo!

2) If you have a flimsy or flexible rod (ugly sticks come to mind) angle the rod back toward the lure while trolling. Somewhere between 90 degrees (straight out from the boat) and 45 degrees back is about right.
You still want the rod to bend on the hook set as it will absorb the shock of the fish striking. But at least if you have it angled back it will "load" much faster toward the rear (stiffer butt section) of the rod.

3) Remember that mono line stretches. The further I am running a lure the more stretch that will be involved. Compensation must be made if I am to have a coiled spring. That may include angling the rod back even more than normal. Sometimes it is advantageous to run a lure way back. If the fish are shallow for example and the boat is going over the top of them that can put them off.......... Or if you want your lure to dive deeper. Many lipped baits will dive deeper the more line you let out.

4) I haven't, as yet, addressed drag settings but it is crucial. Most inexperienced anglers have their drag settings to light. When the fish bites, the line should not slip out until the hook is set. If the drag slips before the hook penetrates a fishes mouth you typically lose. Remember, you have some stretch in the line as well as some flex in the rod to consider. I always test my drag by pulling on the line periodically while I'm trolling and adjust if need be. It is worth mentioning that as the amount of line on the spool decreases the drag pressure will increase. In other words if you have a lot of line out, and you have a small reel the drag pressure will be higher than before you let the line out. This added pressure can cause the line to part when the fish strikes and becomes hooked so get into the habit of pulling out a bit of line from time to time and adjust if need be. Physics.

4) Hooks need to be sharp, sharp, sharp. Dull hooks require greater pressure to imbed. Besides, if you have a "sticky" sharp hook then even if a fish tries to spit your plug he may not be able to before it is to late.

5) Your line is the link to it all so it is crucial that it is of good quality and fresh. Mono will degrade with time and exposure to sunlight and heat. Keep in mind that the thicker the line the less able a lure will be able to "pull" that line into the water column. Once again physics are involved.

6) you must be able to tie a good knot. Practice before you go on your trip with fresh line and be confident that you can apply the same lb pressure to the line as is rated. Going with 8lb test? You should be able to apply 8lbs of pressure before the line will break. I am a bit of a knot fanatic and it is here where physics comes into its own. Perhaps that will be next months tip.

Fishing can be a thinking mans game. That's one reason I like it. There are many different variables that come into play, so for me it doesn't get boring. There is always something new or someplace new to try.

Trolling is one of my very favorite ways to fish. Set the trap and paddle and enjoy the day. Sooner or later it will get sprung. And then what? Is it a big one or a little one? A pike or a walleye? A big fat laker or an ariel football? All that adds up to another reason I like to fish........... the surprise, the mystery, the unexpectedness of it all!



   

Good stuff including the speed variation and turns.

mastertangler wrote on Oct 31^st, 2010 at 5:33pm:


i liked just about everything you said except this part. i think you got this part backwards unless i misunderstood what you were saying. i generally angle my rod slightly forward because it helps with a bunch of different things. (i use fireline (no stretch superline), but this doesnt change the rod positioning in my opinion).

by angling the rod slightly forward, the soft part of the rod bends from your lure pulling on it. this takes out the really soft bendy part. when the fish strikes it is putting the pressure on the middle section of the rods flexibility and this is where you fight the fish. the stiff part of the rod gives you control of the fishes direction, the soft part keeps the hooks sunk in, and the middle part is where you absorb the fishes fight.

also, by angling the rod slightly forward, when you go to pull the rod free of the holder you are pushing it forward and this keeps the line tight. if you angle the rod backward, you are pointing the rod at the fish when you free it from the holder and this is not good. you never want to point the rod at the fish.

keep the rod at 90 degrees to the fish if you can. this gives the maximum amount of bend in the rod. this keeps the hooks sunk in the fishes mouth, gives you the most control, and gives you the most leeway when it comes to hard runs, sharp turns, or head shakes. it basically compensates for anything that could happen and reduces the impact of a mess up.

another thing i like to do is keep my elbows at 90 degrees as well. this gives you about a foot of leeway in each direction (assuming your shoulder to elbow is about 1 foot). if the fish runs super hard away from you, you have an extra foot of play the fish by extending your arm or if the fish runs hard at you can can absorb the extra foot by pulling the reel to your chest. it may not seem like that much, but it really can save you a ton of fish.

i do run an 8" invisaleader when i use fireline. i like the swivel snaps on this brand. with fireline i really dislike having to cut the knot each time so i wanted a quick snap, and because i use a quick snap i might as well use a leader. if you give a mouse a cookie... fireline, although very durable, is subject to fraying when pounding on rocks for a while. i use the leader to limit the amount the line rubs on the rocks and generally cut and retie the leader on after a long bit of trolling if i hit the bottom a lot. plus it never hurts to have a little bit of metal to protect your line from the toothy monsters. these leaders are fairly inexpensive so i dont feel bad changing them if they get kinked up. the first fish on the trip this year managed to twist itself up so badly in the line and leader i had to change the leader 150 yards from the shore on the first lake!

keep in mind i use fireline + leader on my baitcaster where im throwing expensive plugs. im a college kid with a wedding to pay for so im by no means made of money to replace those things!

on my jig rod i use 4lb test to give the fish a chance  i think this mix keeps it fair