Left home late and checked in at Voyaguer hotel in I Falls.  great place with reasonable rates....$52/night (off season now).  Bkfst at sandy's.  Went shopping for food and clothing next.  Didn't cross border 'till 10 AM as I was in no rush and have 7 days until I need to be back at work.  Decided that this trip is travel at my lesieure...no rushing it.  Even gave thought to just shacking up in Atikokan for the week and taking pics and day paddling local lakes.  At Flander's rd, i decided to bag it and head to Atikokan for lunch and a full gas tank I had forgotten to take care of.  Then back to Flander's.

I was quite worried that the road would be a maze of logging trail.  Don't worry.  Road is very easy to follow, but not well signed.  Only two major off-shoots that could confuse you if you were not paying attention.  All other side roads were clearly trails.  I learned quickly that traffic on this road is coming around the corner, full throttle, possibly in your lane to boot!  Couple of close calls 'till I slowed down to avoid them.

Mileage...
#11 to Beaverhouse/Quetico turnoff...10 mi.
#11 to Lady Rapids bridge over the Namakan...32.6 mi.
#11 to LLC village...about 47.5 mi.
#11 to end of rd LLC ranger station...about 49 mi.

all of it dry, dusty, WELL groomed clay/gravel.  No potholes here at all.

This greets you at mile 10 (Beaverhouse spur)
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Headed into village.  Bridge over Namakan just downstream of village.
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Looking downstream from bridge towards Snake Falls...it's beyond the close rapids...down at the corner in the pic.
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Looking upstream towards LLC from the bridge
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They weren't expecting me.  Ottertail's place looked abandoned or closed. Stopped at tribal office to ask a few questions, no one around.  Decided to drive on to ranger station at end of road as there clearly is NO secure parking here in the village.  At the N end of village at the health clinic, you make a left and go a mile.

Ah, here is the secure parking at the ranger station overloooking LLC.  Problem is...the natives stop staffing it before colors turn....about mid sept they lock her up.
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Back of ranger station looking out over lake.
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Now I was somewhat worried.  There is clearly no place to park my rig that would satisfy my security requirements.

Looking forward to you fleshing out the details of your close encounters in your Man Card style
Don't know if your knew it or not, but last time I talked with Q-Dave, that was his full time gig, summer/winter, working as the road grader driver from Hwy-11 down the the LLC Village limits.
He had mentioned that when traveling this road that drivers would be well advised to stay as far to right as they can becasue the trucks hauling lumber/etc get paid by the load and use as much of the road as they can to drive as fast as they can
He used to monitor his CB when he took me to Beaverhouse and said that when it was hot and dry to look for the dust clouds ahead and get over and maybe even stop when spotted. Cold wet weather you better stay alert

" Looking forward to you fleshing out the details of your close encounters in your Man Card style "

I'm guessing that he already gave us a clue - that poiple lake boat that has dreams of being a river runner - what is it anyway - looks like a vagabond, maybe or a prism?

A big mistake....

Headed off down Wesa to fine weather.  At far east end of the lake there is a large beaver dam.  And it's higher than water level...grass growing on it, no visible water trickling through.  Only inches of non-moving water on the downstream side.  If you check your maps or Google Earth, it's about another 1.5 mi to the Namakan from here.  Although I knew water was low, I didn't stop to consider the implications.  My McKenzie's and Google maps both show plenty of water.  I lie to myself and decide that with each stroke closer to the river, I'll find deeper and deeper water.

Off I head, paddling muck and mud...only half floating.  I stubbornly spend the next two hours scooting, shoveling my way about 1/2 mile out into the drying swamp.  I finally can go no more.  Figure I'm still about 3/4 mi from the Namakan, and at least 1/4 mi from any resemblance of shoreline.  Mud wells up around my craft like wet cement.  Cell phone shows no signal.

Problem.  It's 1 PM, hot, I'm completely out of drinking water (foolishly told myself I only need 1 bottle as I'd soon be at the Namakan).  After about 10 minutes of pondering, I really only have 1 choice.  I have no expectation of seeing someone, I'm out of water, no one will be looking for me for another 6 days.  I have to get partially out or out of boat.  I can't touch bottom with the paddle.  So getting completly out is a no go.  I try laying on the gunwale, 1 leg up to high thigh in mud, 1 leg/knee in boat next to seat.  I find I can kick my leg hard through muck and move the boat 2-3 feet/kick.

I decide to aim for the closest shoreline...5 ft reeds about 1/4 mi away.  Can only hope the ground is more stable there with the lower water.  I'm just kicking myself for the summation of stupid deccisions I've made so far.I lost a hold on the boat for a second, my other leg was almost over the gunwale and I was sinking fast in muck....lurching, I regained the canoe by my fingertips and managed to keep my ankle inside.  It took about another minute to get my legs back out of the muck and stop myself from sinking further.  I truely thought that was the end!

Well after about another 1-2 hours I reached the shore, gear, me, boat all coated n thick cement like mud/gravy.  I had to get some calories,  Choked on cookies..I was too dry, Couldn't swallow, ripped open several containers of applesauce, and opened up pancake syrup and drank from bottle.  After about 30 minutes I could stand and my current triple vision had returned to normal again.

Spent the next 3 hours triple tripping along the N shore down to the river.  The creek was bone dry the closer I got to the Namakan.  I walked the muck along the N shore of creek.  Drank myself silly and ate some sandwich's.   Setup tent on beach in some muck as I was too tired and dark descending.  I was really quite shaken and decided the trip was too much for this aging, tubby guy.  In the AM, I'd probably paddle upstream to the village and hike back to my rig on Wesa.  I went to bed with a massive headache, and still hadn't urinated for hours.....I truley felt like a "wannabe" in a country that doesn't give a rip and plays for keeps.

...later

From all the reports, it sounds like its been a tough year for paddlers.

dd

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Dude! Man up! 

In all seriousness, dying from hypothermia while stuck in the mud alone has been one of my greatest fears since early childhood. Glad you're still with us. Only advice I can offer is keep moving - never stand still as you just sink in farther - and put on your PFD. But you already know all that.

Next chapter please.

"Can't wait till the next chapter"   

yeah, hurry up Wally - the way you operate, we never know IF there will be a next chapter! 

I like too, and waiting patiently. Have fun in Fargo.

I always count it as a blessing if I survive a reminder to "be humble" on a trip, especially soloing.

This Oct. going from Maria to Jesse, I ended up visiting Oriana Ck first. grrr Hate it when that happens. I was gawking at campsites and not navigating.

Ok....here is the next installment...you will have to suffer through Photomatix single exposure manipulations which i grossly oversharpened in Picasa.  I still have not made peace with my Photoshop program.  Therefore...many of the pics will look abit weird.


Some more shots of Wesa, 'cause I like her...and I'll never see her again!
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I was paddling up west side of bear island, contemplating it's name.  I was sure that a bear might have visited it, but certainly not live on it....as I rounded the N side of the island, i saw a strange log in the water....is it moving?
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It was moving and I began to race it, but it was much faster than me....I lost ground as I had to dig out my camera and use whatever settings were on the dial....it beat me to the shoreline and was bugging out
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I swung the boat around and gave a loud grunt and got it to stop for a shaky pic...then it was gone!
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Perhaps "Bear Island" is a fitting moniker after all!

Next couple days were pure bliss.  Island camp (obviously used) mid river about 1 mile east of Wawa island near the SW corner of Quetico.  Spent many hours lying in the sun, stripped and doing nadda.  Walleye offered themselves to me...and I consumed happily.

Here's coming up to a camp that I could not resist
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View downriver from camp...somewhere out there lay the mighty High Falls of the Namakan!
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Views to the S looking into Crownland
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View to the N, looking into Quetico
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Wally, a few more heart stopping moments like that and you'll be the poster child for why you need to wear a PFD full time especially while solo

I was only kidding about who gets the Evil Black Rifle and " Jelly" cabinet IF the worse should happen
After only 2 installments, I'm thinking you should have a QJ list of potential inheritors
We'd make sure the legend of Wally would live on forever, getting even better as time goes bye

Nice pictures.
Thanks

thx all...and Spartan 2, I enjoyed your trip report greatly.  Thx for answering those questions I asked.  I bet it hasn't changed since you were there.  I have mixed emotions on daming it and glad I saw it prior to any possible intervention.  As many of us that cruise LLC...suprizing more of us don't spend time on the river.  I'm still amazed that I saw absolutly no one in all that beauty.  Well, logistically it's not the easiest.

Since you all patiently waited, I figured a Youtube account and posted the moose video...enjoy

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"No sooner than my adrenaline died down...I approached the sweeping corner in the river where the mighty Namakan swings to the left...WEST.  My map showed a island almost blocking the river with small water passage on the N side.  Again, I failed to think, until i heard the sound of rushing water.  Where the hell was my life jacket?"


A caution for all the "WallyWannabe"s in the world - please do not land on that island in the middle of the river for a lunch break or pit stop - finding that portage there is likely to ruin your trip - just do what Wally would do, and you'll be fine!

I did have to look that one up.  Went down the river in May 2000, so it was a long tome ago - but I didn't remember running any real rapids?  The portage on the island is marked on my Fisher map - it says 4 rods and has all of two red dots on the island (my notes said 10 rods) -  vague memories started coalescing, and I finally did remember stopping on the island - I don't think the landing was obvious, just take out on a flattish rock.  we went down the river from the lake to the Quetico river, and up that back to B-house.

Just thought I'd throw that info out there, as I suspect that you will go back to do that trip again, doing the section of river you missed this time.  The river below LLC was nice - good current and some rock dodging, but not too difficult.  only other portage I recall was around Ivy Falls.  At that time of year, there were a lot of sturgeon in the river - you'd float over a pod of 6 or 8 big fish every so often.

I've been enjoying your trip report too Wally, and looking forward to "the rest of the story".
If I have them, I often take both McKenzie and Fisher maps.  What one doesn't make clear the other version often does.  Sometimes just looking for a portage where you think one might/should be will reveal at least a path...probably made by someone like MagicPaddler who has no qualms about crashing through what looks to be the shortest route to the next lake, trail or not.

Next day I decided to run for the takeout.  I was nervous about Hay rapids  as I have very little info on it.   As I entered the S end of Little Eva lake, I noted the really shallow water here.  About 3/4ths of the way across to the portage at Hay...the water was only 1-2 ft deep.  My MacKenzie showed the "Hay Rapids Portage" starting between the 2 sets of small drops on the S side of the Isle of Little Eva lk.   NOTE to all readers...THERE IS NO PORTAGE HERE.  After checking with the Fisher's and Google Earth, I believe one can see the real portage around the Hay Complex starting S shore of Little Eva.  Anyway....I missed it.  I couldn't figure out why the portage makers would send me through this drop, then start the portage?  Wouldn't it make sense to start upstreamm from here???   DUH!!

Anyway, I portaged around this first drop behind Island, then went looking for a trail for 40 minutes...NAADDA!
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I gave up on finding the trail.  I said to self..."self, how hard could it be to go down the rest of rapids?"  I had no idea that in low water, it would be a series of 7 drops and numerous rock gardens.  I set of with trepidation as i could not see around the corner, I shot the next drop ok, not with style, but I did ok.  Certainly I would be able to do this.  As the river straightens out, I see rocks and drops for about 1/4 mile continuous.  I decide the next drop is doable on the fly.  Just don't hit that rock in the middle!  Dam, why am I going towards that rock?  Double (explitive), I'm going to hit that rock!  SMACK!  Instant roll of the boat, and I dive out into 3 ft water, canoe again rights itself with bags all inside.  Me, sitting on my but in a pool with water up to neck, holding onto my ride.  I sheepishly looked around, certain that other canoers somewhere had just wittnessed this mistake and were ROFL.  Paddled over to shore and again beached and dryed out.  After that, I decided to portage the next two drops by walking along the shore...rock-hopping.

It took an hour to do that and I was spent.  I could see several more drops ahead.  So I decided I would walk my craft along the shoreline and drag it over the rocks and drops, boat loaded.  No problem with a Royalex, but my kevlar did take a beating.  By that time, I didn't care.  Using this method, it only took aboput 30 minutes to negotiate the next 4 drops.  Ankle to waist deep water.  Along the way, I spot another 2 cow moose together crossing, just about 50 yds in front of me.  camera was not handy!

Some pics of the Hay rapids "complex" as I called it.  In low water as you can see, it is a rock garden.  In high water as i stated earlier, I watched a video of a motorboat negotitating upstream.  Either way, TAKE THE PORTAGE!  You will then miss it all and stay dry.
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Here's a video I shot of High Falls.  It's only the upper portion of the drop.  I think the total drop is about 18-24'.  Not sure.  I was too lazy to paddle around to the bottom for a full pic
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Here's a pic of the falls in avg to slightly high water...
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I really have mixed feelings.  On a persoanl level, I'm a cynic.  The LLC band does not "Need" this income project IMO, and yes, that's stated as an uneducated yankee.  The LLC tribe does NEED income though.  Why doesn't the Canadian govm't just give them $$ if that's what they need?  I guess $$ handouts would be degrading.  But how is that anymore degrading than this..."Hey LLC tribe, here's a dam we'll give ya.  and you can sell the power back to us"...

Apparantly the only thing the tribe would have to sell is power from the river.  But these 2 dams aren't even on First Nation land.  They do have Snake falls  and some drop in the river to work with on their own land.  Yes, the tribe "claims" rights to much of the surrounding areas.    From the best I can tell, the plan is for the Canadian citizens to build this series of dams, give them to the First Nations, then lease the power back from the Natives.  All as an "Income Generating project".. Wierd politics if you ask me.  But no one has asked, and it's not my country.  The Americans are screaming bloody murder over this, and the Canadians don't seem to give a dam.  The yankee position is that the Namakan Lake Sturgeon migrate upstream to base of the falls to spawn, and they claim it will messup that process.

If the LLC really needed an income producer, I wouldn't give a rip, and say "have at it".  But this just seems to be one of those "gratis projects" that the Canadian's handout to their First Nations (IMO).  I see no need for power in the area.  There seems to be plenty of it.  And there are no known plans fopr future development of the area requiring lots more power as far as I can tell. (again IMO).

On the other hand?  If I was the benefactor of an Income Producing project, I wouldn't give a rip about what the Canadian's thought.  As far as danger in messing with the Namakan water levels?  Well it's been done before at Kettle Falls.  And that project had us and the cannuk's involved.  Dam on the N side of island goes across border, dam on S side is all Canndian.  Building of the Rainey lake outlet dam at I Falls was a similar issue I suppose.


Well, I've now seen it before it is gone.

Here's a good description of the High Falls dam/diversion proposal.  The diversion and powerhouse are to run right down the existing portage trail.
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I suggest you get out there in the next couple of years if it is on your bucket list.  She may be gone in the next decade (although I haven't read anything about it's current status in the last year).

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I bet they were thinking " How the hell did we lose our land too guy's like that"

Very Well done!  Great Pictures and nice You-tubes of the ,moose and falls.  Thanx for taking us along.
SunCatcher