Glad you asked. I just bought a couple of these: (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) and plan to replace the bottom clamp with homemade one similar to mount made for depth finder. A flat piece of material bolted to thwart with u-bolts. Big Butt: i'm not sure if it will work and am curious to hear what folks with actual experience have to say.

Berkley Quick-Set works nice if you're mounting on aluminum thwarts.

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I like a rod holder.
After reading previous posts on the subject, I ended up buying a Clamp-On QuickDraw from Cabelas.

Well made and sturdy, but for my style it had it's drawback(s).

I like to troll the drop-off line when traveling if possible. I also like my rod holder to be on the drop-off side.
Depending on conditions I might cross back and forth on a given body of water. Clamping/re- clamping wasn't hard, it just wasn't as quick and convenient as I would like.

On portages unless they were wide open, leaving the holder on would result in brush entangling in the unit.
If you had more than a few portages in your day, it became a pain.

I decided to go with a little different approach and make my own rod holder up.
I wanted cheap/rust free/durable and easy to deploy/change sides and put away.

Here's what I ended up with. I bought a heavy duty plastic clamp at the Home Depot. The kind carpenters would use to clamp items with. I can open it with one hand, but barely. I put shrink tubing over teeth so it wouldn't scratch the gunnel's of a canoe.
I bought some 1- 1/2" PVC pipe, a 1/4" stainless threaded bolt about 3/4-1" long. A 1/4" thin fender washer and some smaller 1/4" washers. I 1/4" stainless nut with the nylon lock threads.

I drilled a hole about halfway down the handle of the clamp. I cut a piece of the PVC pipe about 7" long and drilled a hole halfway down on one side only.
You fish the 1/4" bolt with fender washer attached thru inside of pipe and thru the hole in clamp handle.
I used a small metal mending plate to re-enforce the handle but that probably was overkill.
Put a small washer over bolt and the locknut. Tighten till there no slop but the PVC still rotates fairly easy.
When you clamp this to gunnel, the PVC pipe will jam under the width of the clamp jaws, and give you a nice angle for your trolling rod.
I cut a notch in both ends of the PVC in-line with each other and parallel to the clamp handle the PVC is bolted too. I clamped the holder to a board to simulate the gunnel of the canoe and just visually marked where I wanted my reel leg notches. ( You may not want them at all).

Now I won't claim that this set-up will hold the monster LT or NP, but if you set drag properly and pay attention as you should, the clamp grips tight enough that shouldn't be a problem.
But, I like to plan for the worst, so I take a piece of cord with a loop on one end and a big gated carabiner on the other. Put the carabiner thru the loop around your seat frame and run the biner end up thru a little loop end you put on one side of the clamp. Then hook carabiner around leg of spinning reel.

Worse case scenario you won't lose holder or rod. Make sure you leave biner cord long enough that you can set hook and unhook the clip before reeling in.

I think it's a pretty cheap and fool proof rig and easy to deploy/ switch sides/pack away.

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Ski Bum
Do yourself a favor and get the Ram Rod 2000 side mount. Yes you have to drill a few holes into your gunnel (use stainless with self locking nuts).

Superior in so many ways. Light, indestructible, quiet, many positions to use, safety clip (don't lose your rod).......

Plus it has the added and distinct advantage of popping your rod a good 8 inches off your gunnel which really helps keep it out of the way when your paddling.

I have a side mount on both sides of my boat, so it is easy to swap sides.

The only drawback is I am reluctant to have it dangling while portaging so I remove it and use a delee bob to secure it to a thwart. The positives so outweigh this negative however that I gladly go through the additional logistics. 

Pop rivets can fail pretty easily too if they are subjected to a lot of torque as in a rod holder.

I've used these for years with no complaints whatsoever and they will probably outlast me and my tripping career:

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Available from quite a few retailers online and perhaps locally as well, depending on where you live.

What I like about them is that the top part of the rod holder comes off quickly and easily at portages and can be reversed to face downwards and thus out of the way for portaging.  Takes about 15 seconds to do it.  The main clamp stays on the canoe from the moment the canoe comes off the car until the moment it goes back on the car. 

The rod holder itself is very adjustable so you can set your rod high or low, swept forwards or back as far as you want.  I have mine set so that I can paddle easily on both sides with no interference and grabbing the rod out of the holder is quick and easy.  The setup of the holder is such that the stress on the rod is on the cork both forward and aft of the reel, not on the graphite/whatever rod blank which can get stressed and weakened by rod holders that rely on gripping the rod blank.