This is Part 1 of a (planned) four-part trip report for WCPP. Part 1 is an overview. Parts 2, 3, and 4 will cover campsite data, portage info, and photographs, not necessarily in that order, and "when I get around to it".

Trip summary: 15 days, about 125 km paddling (plus side trips and exploring) and 8.5 km portages, solo. This was my first visit to WCPP.

Route: Put in at Beresford Lake, Manitoba, then into WCPP at Garner Lake, north through Jester Lake, Haggart Lake, Broken Arrow Lake, east through Haggart River, south along Adventure Creek, west again through Bulging Lake and Haggart Lake, then back out.

Dates: August 8-22, 2012

What I liked:

The solitude: I saw 3 other canoes in 15 days. But see below ...

The granite: This is precambrian shield canoeing, with much more exposed rock than in Q. It's not that wussy polished showroom granite either, this is the real thing, big weathered lichen- and moss-covered domes ...

The portages: (Seriously.) Some portages were an easy walk through the forest, some were an easy walk across a granite dome, but all the portages were pleasant walking and usually quite scenic. There were no seriously mucky patches on my route (ankle deep at worst), and only a few portages had sections steep enough that you needed to be careful with one or two foot placements. There was hardly any deadfall blocking the trails, and foliage ranged from "cleared" to "slightly overgrown". (Note: All of my portages had been cleared in 2010 or later, so if you attempt a route that the portage crews haven't seen in 3+ years, things might be a bit more challenging.) The portages were generally easy to find, usually marked with flagging tape, cairns, little inukshuks or other artistic embellishments. The trails were always easy to follow, and always well-cairned when the track wasn't obvious.

The wildlife: I didn't see any moose (unlike magicpaddler) or cougars (like mihun09 on CCR), but I did see a woodland caribou (rear end mostly, they spook easily). In my canoe at one of the portages, I also found the biggest dock spider I'd ever seen. It was about 8 cm across, and looked like a mini tarantula.

The fishing: No intent to damn with faint praise, but I consider anywhere that I can catch fish as "excellent" fishing. So WCPP rates as "Excellent". (Sorry - you'll have to go elsewhere for useful WCPP fishing info )

The bugs (absence of): Still bad in MB in August, but on the Ontario side of the border, almost all of the biters were gone when I came through. On a few evenings, I sat on the shore well past sunset without bug dope or mesh clothing and had no problems.


What I didn't like:

The airplane noise: Not too bad in the SW corner of WCPP (Jester Lake), but everywhere else I found the float plane noise significantly detracted from my enjoyment of the trip. On average, there were about three "close encounters" per day, either a plane loud and visible, or loud and annoying but not obviously visible. (Maybe if I'd turned around ...) From early in the morning 'til past 8 in the evening, each day, every day, worse (four or five planes) on Saturdays and Sundays.) And when one plane disappears, you start wondering when the next one will come, like waiting for the other shoe to drop. So if you're looking for a "quiet journey", you might want to reconsider whether WCPP is the destination for you. (See the link in pajeff's Sig Olsen post in General BW/Q discussion today for more on float planes.) 

The trash: It seemed like there was generally more trash at the campsites in WCPP than in Quetico. Normally you expect things to be a bit worse when you're within one or two days paddle from the parking lot, but even four or five days into WCPP, some of the campsites were still mini garbage dumps. I found one firepit full of empty beer cans, another with a bunch of discarded eggshells, and almost all firepits had some aluminum foil left in them. Maybe the fly-in access means everywhere in WCPP is within one or two days of the parking lot?

Will I go back? Without the float planes, the answer would be yes, definitely. As it stands, well, it's probably not on my planning list for next year, but I'll likely return eventually.

I congratulate you for trying one of the less used entry points for WCPP. It is also refreshing to hear that you had a lot of positive experiences along the way. The caribou sighting is a nice plus to the trip.

The float plane traffic you experienced seems worse than normal. As DD pointed out it may have been traffic to Carroll and Donald from Bissett. I have come to accept the planes because they are the taxi cabs of the area. We canoiest do not spend enough money to support a few outfitters in the area much less all those employed by the fishing camps. If the plan is put in place to limit planes to five landing places it will only affect the planes transporting paddlers.

I am looking forward to the rest of your report. I have had many enjoyable days in that SW region of the park. It will be interesting to hear about your observations.

DentonDoc wrote Today at 12:07am:
But it is interesting to have them fly over low enough you could toss a rock up and hit them.

I think this is something that could be addressed by the park. I can think of 3 times that planes came over my  head and just above the tree tops. These were not landing or takeoff situations and not a day with low cloud ceilings. I recovered from the sound blast but the caribou calf may not.

I love your photos.  You pick same subjects I do, but I think yours are better.  Camera gear?

Also, I noted your other comments but compared to Q, fewer or same or more people?  I'm always after the solitude and feel I might object as much to plane noise as you do, but also on the portages and lakes.

And dare to take a photo of yourself.  You'll be glad you did.  Only took me a few years to try it.  Was inspired by a speake at Canoecopia who showed a photolog of his solo from Batch to PP (?) in spring and I think one self portratit a day - and it was good.

Thanks for sahring!