On my recent trip my Cuda 242 was erratic, giving random false readings. It is time to replace it. I'm looking for something good for canoes, low power, affordable. Just a basic unit without all the bells and whistles.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Not sure how to describe random erratic readings. I've used it enough to know how it works. I checked the trouble shooting guide which suggested checking the wire for nicks, cuts etc. Also checked connection  to head and transducer. Both good. My transducer has worked well in past shooting through hull. Not a power issue as I was getting 12+ volts on new lithium AA batteries.

So I'm thinking it must be an internal issue. That's why I'm looking for a new one. Leaning towards Lowrance mark x5, but open to suggestions. Thanks.

It's typically not the unit itself but the transducer that goes bad.  I'm on my 3rd transducer for my Hummingbird Piranha.  The unit itself is just fine but I found out that some of the portable transducers do have an expiration date.  However, with that being said, for a few dollars more you can replace the entire thing anyway and with an upgrade no doubt.

HighnDry wrote on Sep 20^th, 2014 at 1:40am:


I had never heard of one so my curiosity was piqued a bit. Interesting possibilities and the size and weight is attractive. Here is my take away from the reviews I read.......the cord to the sensor is long and tends to sink. the manufacturer replied by suggesting additional floats. And one review mentioned the unit is toast if submerged. I wonder how it does in just generally wet conditions?

Those few negatives aside most reviews were quite positive with many Kayak fisherman (and fisherwomen  ) weighing in. An inexpensive, lightweight simple to use way to tell the depth will certainly aid you in getting dinner. Now all you need is a halfway decent rod holder and a crank bait and you most of the way to a walleye in hand.

Old Salt wrote on Sep 20^th, 2014 at 3:19am:


It started with false reads and erratic changes in depth and temperature and the display would blink on and off from time to time.  I changed batteries, connections, etc... and nothing helped.  I too thought my unit was shot after 2 summers.  So, I brought it to my local Gander Mountain as it was still under warranty.  It was there where I learned about transducers and their shelf life in portable units.  I was skeptical but we put in a new one and it worked fine - for the next 2 years.  I estimate that I get probably 500 hours out of them (YMMV).  At that time, a new transducer ran about $45.  Now, you may as well buy a whole new unit.

Old Salt,

Picked up a Lowrance X-4 per Magicpaddlers recommendation. It is cheap $80, has all the bells and whistles and most importantly does not use a lot of power to function. It performed flawlessly shooting thru the hull of my Magic on my Saganagons solo this summer.

I had no idea that transducers can have such a short shelf life. I have 2 older Eagle portable units that must be over 15 years old and the older style "puck" transducers still work well. Maybe its is the newer style "skimmer" transducers that poop out after a few years.

I was told that if you let the transducer operate in air there is no place for the energy to go so it damages the transducer. I do not think shooting through the hull hurts as long as the space between the transducer and the hull is filled with a material that will transmit the energy well and the hull is made out of a material that will transmit the energy (not foam core).
I think it was KF that recommended the X-4 although I like it also.

Ranger, I would be interested in seeing your plan for a floating transducer. Got pics? Thanks.

I use the older style 1101 bottomline fishing buddy.I use it mostly for fall fishing. My unit uses 3-c batteries and will last all week. Thats fishing 10 to 12 hours a day. The only problem i have ever had with this unit is when you are moving they will shake or wobble. The cure for that is cut the tube off and use a suction cup mount like most people have gone to. I just made a plastic collar that goes around the tube holding it tight to the mount and cured the problem. If this unit shows fish they are there.

I can't say what brand of fish finder is a good deal for the money as this fall trip was my first time with one.

The Humminbird 165 which I go for around $80 seemed to be a good deal for a bare bones/low power consuming unit. I read a lot of reviews on-line and the best reviews for a economy unit seemed to be between the Lowrance and Humminbird.

Fans/critics of both brands. Reminded me of the Chevy/Ford truck people. I guess whatever works great for you, you stick with.

I did read about multiple ways to mount the transducer and most mentioned what MP said about the operating in air. Since I was borrowing a canoe, I needed a way that was easy/ secure, but easily removable?

I did a little McGyvering before I left and came up with my own take on the problem.
I bought a 16 oz screw type plastic food container, I made sure to get one with a FLAT bottom not an oval one.
My transducer fit perfectly, but I wanted it to lay flat ( mine is Triangle shape). I drilled a hole in the side of container about 1/2 below the threads and then cut a slit from rim to hole. Hole was just a little smaller than transducer cable. I put transducer in container and pushed the cable down thru slit until it was in hole.
I wanted to make sure puck laid flat so I cut a piece of close cell foam to fit the inside the container and cut a slit in that to fit the transducer cable.

When I screw lid on the foam compresses and lock the puck tight to the bottom of container.
I read about people using water bags to transmit so I filled the container with water before I screwed lid on.

To secure to bow of canoe right next to front bulkhead, I brought a small tube of waterproof bathroom silicone caulk. the kind that says sealer/adhesive. As soon as I landed in camp on Cirrus, I unlade packs and mounted plastic container.

I put a generous bead around the base of container and a X across the bottom. I positioned it and put a big flat rock on top and went to set camp. About 45 minutes later it was secure enough to put transducer in ad foam plug/water and put top on.

I worked perfectly, and stayed secure over the portages.
I used Velcro straps I had for bundling computer cables/ Bungee Bobs and a few cable ties to secure the excess cable.
To mount the unit, I used a 12" Arno cam type strap and just secured between portage yokes pads.
On portages, I loosened strap and let is swivel down and re-secured. No problem at all.

When I left park, I took my little personal knife and just cut around silicone, removed puck container and the silicone just pulled off like old caulk would.

Here's some pics. Not bad for first attempt.

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