Is there any possibility that the water condensing in side your shell is from your body heat and not water penetrating from the outside?

I have Campmor rain jacket with the DWR type of waterproofing. I had that issue after a few seasons but like you I renewed the coating, but still has the issue?

I tend to run "hot" and found that even while just standing in rain, maybe fishing, I still needed to make sure my Pit Zippers were all the way down.
My jacket has side zippered mesh pockets and sometimes I even unzip them from the bottom to vent the extra heat.
This seemed to do the trick 90% of the time. The rest was a combo of being in warm moist air and the exertion of a portage.
I always wear a nylon quick drying fishing shirt with a athletic type moisture wicking t-shirt or fleece in cooler weather.

That seems to help a lot too. When I start to feel damp, I know to vent more.

Just a thought.

I have not used the product you referenced but I have used NIKWAX.  You do not want to have detergent in the clothes so you wash it with TECH WASH. Then I used Polar Proof to water proof a nylon rain jacket.  I reapplied once a year and it worked well.  I do not know if I needed to reapply that often. Nikwax has several water proofing for different materials.
TECH WASH (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
POLAR PROOF (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

Here's a good little primer on the subject.
Like painting your house, it's the preparation that's key as MP pointed out.

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I'm not familiar with either product but in general, if water doesn't bead, the jacket will have lost it's breathability. Personally, I'd test it's water proofness by standing in a cold shower for a minute or two. I guess you could test breathability by wearing it when it's cold out but not raining. Basically you need heat to push out the water vapor molecules. Least that's what I heard once and it seems to be true in my experience.

fitting the replies from youse guys to the couple times the jacket got moist on the inside,  it's now plain to see the beadiness is gone. last time in the rain there was no beading. so my goal is to end up with the beadingest rain gear on the planet. not only will it bead, but rain drops will literally ricochet off. gonna try the atsko product as they advertise good for goretex. besides same guys make sno seal and that's been a great product far back as i can remember.    side: some reviews on the precip jacket, folks say the inner liner began to flake off and peel away or de-laminate from the coat, i've got none of that. mine looks like new.  :dankk2

JimJ - yeah maybe those guys got their stuff all DEET-ed up, that's not my case though, i was just mentioning that's what some have said in reviews on the precip jacket. one guy said his jacket was 1 yr old and delaminating.
also, i didn't mean that i'd treat the jacket with sno-seal.  Atsko makes sno-seal, but this stuff too:
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that's what i was referring to as a treatment (mentioned earlier in the thread)

sure. i'll post how well that stuff worked/didn't for me.
already did the nikwax tech wash last year so should be ok there.
i also treat with permethrin and started supplementing with 20% picardin instead of deet. seems to work for me. i'd hate to damage my gear, particularly from something i applied. back in jr high i had a friend that carried a leaky a battery against his stomach. the acid melted the whole front of his chicago cubs windbreaker. pretty cool.

That is good to know.  Looks like it would be easier to apply then the nikwax product.  When I get my nikwax product used up I will be checking out the spray on products.

zski wrote on May 6^th, 2015 at 2:52pm:


If you put this on a canoe will it just skim on top of the water?

Quote:


I never tried it for waterproofing garments, but I used it for other chemicals and don't see why it wouldn't work for waterproofing.

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Spray cans are always a poor economic choice for what you get out of the can. I have numerous spray paint cans that I tossed because they had run out of propellant but still had plenty of paint. I use a electric paint sprayer now.

trouble with using waterproofing on DWR is that you can plug up the pores that allow the jacket to breathe, so you just get a lot of condensation inside and get wet anyway

I'd check the Marmot website and see what they recommend - I'll bet there's an answer in the FAQs, but if not, send them an e-mail and ask what they recommend for thier product - might be a safer way to go.

I've never treated any of my rain jackets, just eventually replace with new ones

that IS good advice  - call the mfgr.
last year tried nik wax tech wash
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and dryer
this year the atsko silicone water guard (the can does state that it allows leather and fabric to breathe but yeah that doesn't necessarily mean goretex/dwr)
i noticed on some forum a couple people called marmot and said the garment was no longer waterproof. marmot had them send it in and replaced it with new. one guy said he couldn't see any damage even though marmot said the coat was "de-laminated".