"Is there a way to actually measure rocker on a boat?" lots of ways, but no standard for the industry

"Is rocker the same as the shear line at a given depth?" -

no - see below
---Shear-line: top edge extending around the canoe hull from bow to stern. Skid plate: A piece of thick Kevlar® that is glued to the bottom ends of a canoe. Prevents abrasion of the skin of the canoe. Stem: The most extended part of the bow or stern, ascending from the keel to the deck.---

"If I do buy a Magic, what will I be gaining over the Indy other than 10 to 12 lbs lighter?"

You should definitely gain some speed - Magic will have a higher length to width ratio, so faster for that reason - but simply pushing 15 lbs less weight should gain you a bit more speed itself.

I have the Kevlight version of  the Merlin II that is the black/yellow Kevlar weave (no carbon) - I wet foot and try to be as gentle as I can, but it has held up very well even hitting the occasional rock - If the object of your new canoe is to get a lighter boat, I would get the lightest version available - and that likely includes the aluminum gunnels rather than wood - but to each their own.
I suspect that you might lose a little bit of stability in magic vs Indy - but maybe not - best to test drive anything you are buying, with and without a tripping load

Mat,

I appreciate your attempt to educate me.  I am not sure where I got the idea that sheer related to Rocker??

I noted your suggestion about going lighter.  It is less important when there is a group with some younger Sherpa's along, but with more solo travel on my horizon, weight will be a factor.  I believe most of my weight savings will be from not taking all of the "I Might Need This" crap I took the last time.  I know aluminum gunwales save weight, but I still am very much stuck in the past when it comes to trim.  I like the look and feel of the wood.  I have never made a trip without my old canvas and leather Duluth Packs.  I know they are heavy, especially when wet, but I like the way they smell.   They will have to give way to lighter packs with better suspensions for solo travel.  In general change is very hard for me.

Mr. Solo,

I very much appreciate your offer to come North and test drive your canoes.  I would be happy to make the trip just to say "hello", but my schedule is overbooked for the next couple of months.  If possible, I would like to take a raincheck on your offer though.

So what was it about the Voyager that put a grin on your face , where the Magic did not? 

Kind Regards,

Mossback

Solus wrote on May 11^th, 2018 at 8:48pm:


Solus,

Whether you intended it or not, your comments sound to me like a strong sales pitch for the Magic, especially the mention of handling heavy seas well.

Thanks for taking the time to weigh in.

Mossback, Solus's comments are right on the money. I started my paddling in racing canoes, so I lean that way. But again he's spot on about the boats.

What I liked about the Voyager vs Magic was the height of the gunnels combined with the tumblehome. It enabled me to wedge both knees under the gunnels to maintain more contact with the boat in rougher water. I straighten one leg to toe the footbrace and tilt my knee under the gunnel. I fold my other leg under and across with my foot wedged into the side, with it's knee under the opposite gunnel. I'm braced similar to how a kayaker would use the top deck to brace his knees, but both their legs would be straight. The Magic's gunnels were too low, or seat too high, plus my legs too tight to do the same in it.

I still grin in rough water or upstream in tricky currents. Confidence helps, don't paddle scared, you'll swim for sure. I'm not stupid, I did stay on shore last year on BH when the foam was pilling up knee deep on the rocks, solo tripping in Oct. TMI 

MossBack wrote on May 13^th, 2018 at 3:16am:


Truth be told I don't really care what my actual trim is- just move things till it works right. If I want to get an objective idea I can always consult the water in the bilge (from boots, rain, or paddle drippings).