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Topic Summary - Displaying 10 post(s). Click here to show all
Posted by: gfy_paddler
Posted on: May 24th, 2011 at 2:49pm
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Thanks for that Tip SoloTripper.  I walk past a Radio Shack every day and will do exactly as you say!
Posted by: solotripper
Posted on: May 24th, 2011 at 1:33pm
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gfy_paddler wrote on May 24th, 2011 at 1:12pm:
Ooops..  

I spliced my transducer wire last night and didn't mind the shielding at all.  I just linked the wires back up with electrical tape, and then a gorilla tape second layer on the wire.  I hooked it up and everything looked to be working all right.  Hope so, anyway Undecided



I'd seriously consider soldering the wires. Sooner or later the odds are your tape connections will get pulled on and that could cause problems in the field.
A pencil solder gun from Radio Shack is cheap and it's easy enough to do if your not familiar with soldering. Just tin the two ends first and a light touch to blend together. If done properly a solder joint is the same as the original wire.
Posted by: gfy_paddler
Posted on: May 24th, 2011 at 1:12pm
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Ooops.. 

I spliced my transducer wire last night and didn't mind the shielding at all.  I just linked the wires back up with electrical tape, and then a gorilla tape second layer on the wire.  I hooked it up and everything looked to be working all right.  Hope so, anyway Undecided
Posted by: wally
Posted on: May 5th, 2011 at 11:13am
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The last thing I am is an engineer
...but I've just chucked it in the bilge with some water (flat bottom puck).  Don't like the reading?  Tug it back abit with a jerk on the cable.  No silicone needed.
Your milelage may vary.
Posted by: bigfin
Posted on: May 5th, 2011 at 11:00am
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Gotcha. Good points.  Thanks for the replies!
Posted by: DentonDoc
Posted on: May 5th, 2011 at 5:15am
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Quote:
dd,

I'm thinking of buying a Cuda 300 or Lorance X4 and converting to "portable" as described by KF in prior posts.  What made you switch from the suction cup to the 'through the hull' method?  Just curious.

Thanks in advance!

Sorry, I missed your question, but Old_Salt's statement would have been my answer ... except I paddle a solo boat, so I can see what is coming up.  

My screen is located on a foot rail, so I don't have to rotate anything to portage.

dd
Posted by: Old Salt
Posted on: May 5th, 2011 at 4:28am
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The biggest reason for me to shoot thru the hull is that I don't have to do anything with the transducer when I portage. All I have to do is turn it off and rotate the head. The next biggest reason is that I occassionally knock the suction cup loose with my paddle. The last reason is that I can tell the bow paddler that he is literally 'on fish'.
Posted by: bigfin
Posted on: May 2nd, 2011 at 2:43pm
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Quote:
Quote from old_salt on Apr 8th, 2011, 2:29pm:
I assume you feel you are getting good, accurate readings using this set-up.
So far as I know.  I ran the transducer using a side-mount suction cup for a while before I settled on this arrangement.  It appears to me that the degree of signal fidelity is essentially the same.

dd


dd,

I'm thinking of buying a Cuda 300 or Lorance X4 and converting to "portable" as described by KF in prior posts.  What made you switch from the suction cup to the 'through the hull' method?  Just curious.

Thanks in advance!
Posted by: solotripper
Posted on: Apr 11th, 2011 at 3:01pm
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I was a cable builder for 13 years.
dd's explanation/diagram was spot on.
The only tip's I might add is that they make a waterproof shrink tubing that has a glue/sealer inside. I/we would also use a short section of medical grade silicone tubing that we would put over the solder connection and then use the water proof shrink tubing cut a 1/2" longer than silicon tubing. The silicone adds a layer of protection at the solder joint and replaces the wire coating you lose when you strip back the ends to splice/solder. In event of any friction in wire lengths in finished cable, the silicone will prevent any abrasion at the solder joint.
We did this for cables for military apps.
Just a upgrade, not an necessity.
Putting the shielding back is a necessity. When you finish your splice, the cable should be as original as when you started for maximum efficiency.
Posted by: Magicpaddler
Posted on: Apr 10th, 2011 at 2:21pm
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The transducer that came with my current detector has a round bottom designed to give accurate readings up to 40 MPN and has enough cable to reach from the bridge to the stern of a big boat.  I bought one from the manufacture that is for mounting on a trolling motor. It has a flat bottom and less cable.
 
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