I would like to add what I feel is an item of importance concerning braid..........

It has been my experience when working with braid and tying floro leaders that one has a much easier time when working with braid that has a bit of substance........and even then I often double the braid to help its diameter match the floro.

Very tough to work with wispy braid in actual fishing conditions especially when tying floro leaders to it.

I have a few reasons.. one i never have to worry about abrasion on my main line, if it is dragged across logs or rock it doesnt get beat up, when running light line and you happen to damage that line say 30 ft or more from the end you pretty much have to replace all that line or take your chances of it breaking at that point with a fish on. it is much easier to just change out my leader which never gives out on me and is virtualy invisible.

second i fish mostly bait casting reels and the heavier line is much easier to cast and work with in the case of a tangle or rats nest.

The leader it thicker then the braid im using and provides exactly what i need it to.. invisibility, im not worried about losing fish with it at all.

How many people say using light line is the best thing ever, but then tie on a steel leader? Thats the opposite of what i do, much better strength but you might as well use heavy line then cuz your leader is clear as day down there..

Why would you run 20-40lb main line and then tip with a 15-20lb leader?

Excellent advice guys, personally im partial to powerpro and almost always stick with 20lb to 40lb no matter what i am fishing for.. I know most people think that going "lite" is the way to catch  more fish, but i have to dissagree with that. I like to stick to a heavy braid that will hold up to abrasion and has no stretch, but then add a leader to the end which i make myself. I really like p-line 100% flouro in the 15-20 pound range and make my leaders around 2ft long with a swivel and snap swivel. its invisible underwater and hasnt lost me a fish yet including a beautiful 46in northern two years ago. the trick is to always change the leader as soon as you get a nick in the line. its cheaper the buying made leaders and more effective i think.

as for nanofil! i had to try it out when i first saw it this winter. I spolled it up on my ice rod. i used the 8lb and the knot strength is great and it pulled pike and walleye up all winter with out a problem. its very thin and i like that.

Always change your line yearly though!

I wrap a layer of electricians tape before putting braid on a spool that isn't set-up for braid. Seems to work well.

You can also run the first 10 feet of your super line through cobblers wax or bees wax before putting it on the spool to prevent spin.

Kingfisher wrote on Apr 4^th, 2012 at 4:42am:

Apply a piece of tape over the first couple of winds of line on the spool.  The small white piece tape that comes with the line purchase is handy enough.

-YB

zski wrote on Apr 3^rd, 2012 at 7:40pm:

I consider backfilling about two layers of mono onto the spool a necessity to prevent fireline and similar lines from spinning on a smooth metal spool. More than once I have had to perform "field repairs" on other peoples reels to correct this problem. Use back to back uni knots or blood knots to connect dissimilar fishing line. They are tricky to tie correctly the first time but help yourself by doing it in a well lit spot at a desk or work bench not in the field.

mastertangler wrote on Apr 3^rd, 2012 at 5:29pm:
Thanks MT!!!...i've got your number. 

Kingfisher wrote on Apr 3^rd, 2012 at 5:26pm:
This is a good idea.  In an attempt to be thrify I once tried to backfill a spool of Fireline with a cheaper line but couldn't get a blood knot to work so gave up...

zski wrote on Apr 3^rd, 2012 at 3:42pm:


Eat your Wheaties and come on down Tim.......
Sometimes a spot opens up.....I have already booked for 2013.......Here at MT enterprises we promise to exceed your expectations 

4 weeks and counting for this year, yea baby, time to bring it!