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My initiation into the canoe tripping fraternity began in 1959. I was 8 years-old and at sleep-away camp for the first time. When the Section Head came to our cabin asking who wanted to go on a canoe trip, I was the only one with his hand in the air. We went to Algonquin Park. The trip was a disaster. On the first day out we tried to run rapids, capsized, trapped the canoe between the current and a giant boulder and spent a long, miserable night, cold and hungry. I couldn’t wait for the next trip.
Only 4 hours north of Toronto, Algonquin was my main tripping destination throughout my teens. It is a huge, gorgeous park devoted exclusively to canoeing – there are no fishing lodges – and I paddled it into my early 20’s. Occasionally I tried some other Ontario spots – Killarney, Temagami – but I always came back to Algonquin. Still, I kept hearing about this other park, spoken of almost reverentially as a “real wilderness park,” and the true test of skill and stamina – Quetico. But in those days it was just a fantasy – “Maybe one of these days …”
By my early 20’s I had hit the road travelling in the States, mostly living in Arizona and California. Canoeing wasn’t on the agenda – too many other diversions to catch a young man’s fancy. By the time I returned to Toronto I was 36 with hips so badly damaged by arthritis that I could barely get my socks on by myself much less take a canoe into the bush. Around that time I met the woman who soon became my wife. Interestingly she had a history in her youth of canoeing as well. But given my arthritic condition canoeing was not something we shared together and never spoke much about it.
In 2005 I had the second of two hip replacement surgeries. Three months after the surgery my wife and I rented a cabin, which just happened to be 20 minutes from the East Gate of Algonquin Park. We decided to do a day trip. We rented a canoe and paddled Lake Opeongo. We loved it. The next day we did another day trip and the next and the next. It was like waking from a deep sleep and remembering something wonderful that had been long forgotten. And the best part was, my wife and I were doing it together.
For four summers after that we rented a ranger cabin in the interior of Algonquin. This was a primitive and very basic cabin left over from the 1920’s and the days when the park rangers would patrol the interior for months at a time and use these cabins as layovers. For four summers we recovered our old paddling and woodcraft skills until we felt ready for the full monty – a 3 week trip into mythic Quetico.
Our Quetico trip was spectacular and an absolute success. It began with a stop in Thunder Bay where we picked up our shiny new Bell Northstar. We put in at Nym and did a loop through Jesse, Jean, Sturgeon, Russell, the B chain, Pickerel and out at French. It is a beautiful park, very much like Algonquin with its mix of conifer and deciduous forest and pristine lakes teeming with Smally, Pike, Walleye and Laker. But, even though Quetico has far less canoe traffic than Algonquin, we were still looking for something even more secluded.
The next year we decided to do our 3-week trip in Wabakimi. One of the great things about Wabakimi is that it is accessible by train. We discovered the sheer pleasure of taking a berth and riding the Canadian for 24 hours each way, to and from the park. After riding the train my wife and I were certain that we would never drive to a canoeing destination again (although, admittedly, “never” is a long time.) Wabakimi is very different from parks to the south like Quetico and Algonquin. It is part of the Boreal forest ecology and therefore exclusively coniferous (except for some Birch.) It is also a region that is susceptible to forest fires, which can leave vast stretches of the park denuded of trees and very barren and bleak. Still, it has a stark beauty all its own that we found strangely alluring. What we didn’t like was paddling for days and working our way into the park’s interior only to find motorboats from the fishing lodges that are fixtures of the park. The fishing lodges, and there are a great many scattered all about the park, were there for decades before the park existed and are, therefore, considered a part of the landscape. That may be, but for us it was the one major turn off in an otherwise outstanding trip.
I had heard about Woodland Caribou from folks like Wayne (Denton Doc) on this site and was intrigued. It sounded like it had all the wonder and seclusion of Wabakimi with far less boat and lodge traffic. According to Harlan (Schwartz) who owns and operates Red Lake Outfitters, there aren’t any lodges to speak of south of the Bloodvein. So last year we did 22 days in WCPP. It was the best trip of our lives. The campsites were wonderful, the lakes small and friendly (I’m getting too old for paddling great windswept expanses) and the fishing out of this world. We’re heading back for a second 3-week trip this summer that we expect will be even better than the last.
That’s my story. And to think … I owe it all to my orthopedic surgeon!
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