Now if I could just keep from dropping (losing) entire rods and reels in the lake (done that twice in the past 5 years), I'll really feel better...
I was in the stern when I saw my bow man throw his rod away while casting. He'd been casting to one side mostly when he switched sides. Instead of just releasing his index finger to let the line out, he opened his whole hand. I was kind of in shock, but yes he did it. He was a bit of a goof, intelligent, but not much common sense.
P_k, you must not be the only one. Of course like a PFD or a seat belt, they only work IF you remember to put them on.
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Posted by: Jim J Solo Posted on: Nov 16th, 2013 at 3:36pm
Now if I could just keep from dropping (losing) entire rods and reels in the lake (done that twice in the past 5 years), I'll really feel better...
I was in the stern when I saw my bow man throw his rod away while casting. He'd been casting to one side mostly when he switched sides. Instead of just releasing his index finger to let the line out, he opened his whole hand. I was kind of in shock, but yes he did it. He was a bit of a goof, intelligent, but not much common sense.
Posted by: db Posted on: Nov 15th, 2013 at 10:40pm
I broke a nice mid weight graphite rod trying to mussel in a lunker (snag) on 8# test one windy day.
How many clams did that rod cost?
Now if I could just keep from dropping (losing) entire rods and reels in the lake (done that twice in the past 5 years), I'll really feel better...
Now there is an admission which takes some character. Care to share how it happened? It could prove to be a learning experience for everyone.
I have a tale of a lost rod, a loomis at that, which happened out of a canoe in the everglades. Well it happened like this.........paddling along, nice sunny day. I had placed my rods on top of my cooler in my dandy plastic coleman canoe and yup, you guessed it, while I was switching sides I knocked the blasted thing over. I immediately pulled to the side of the small canal and started considering my options. I had an acquaintance in our town who was a diver but I thought it unlikely I could get him to feel around on the bottom in an alligator infested backwater.
So I took my other rod, put a treble hook on and about the third cast I hooked the very tip top eyelet. I will never forget the sight of that rod slowly materializing out of the water. How cool was that?
Posted by: Jim J Solo Posted on: Nov 15th, 2013 at 3:44pm
I broke a nice mid weight graphite rod trying to mussel in a lunker (snag) on 8# test one windy day.
How many clams did that rod cost?
As one who has also snapped a nice rod on a lunker (snag), it makes me feel slightly better knowing it has happened to other more experienced anglers than me...
Now if I could just keep from dropping (losing) entire rods and reels in the lake (done that twice in the past 5 years), I'll really feel better...
As for the advice on this thread, thx for the info...I've actually been jigging more and more on recent trips as I gain experience...good helpful hints on technique and tackle here....but I think there's a reason I don't buy really expensive fishing stuff for the Quetico anymore...
Posted by: mastertangler Posted on: Nov 15th, 2013 at 12:23pm
Sinnerbaits vs spinners.......apples and oranges. Bent arm spinnerbaits, includinging the safety pin style we are so focused on have 2 different wire configurations used as the tie off point. One is an "R" style bend (such as the Kahara) and require a direct tie off lest the snap continually slide up the arm and foul.
The other is closed and either option (snap or direct tie) is used. There are some advantages to a snap system as the freedom of the loop permit an instant alignment of the spinner itself. Picture, if you will, a direct tie off......any curve in the line will need be absorbed before your lure runs true.
For example, make a long high cast on a windy day and a large arc will be formed in your line. On a direct tie there is little or no freedom and the lure must follow where the knot leads. This can be particularly debilitating to true "spinners" which might not kick on at all.
Having said all that I am still a fan of a direct tie on spinnerbaits but am careful to avoid large arcs in my line.
Posted by: chaga Posted on: Nov 15th, 2013 at 12:19pm
I love jig fishing, find a hump or reef and bump all over it. I especially like to fish these spots when it is not too windy. I use a spincast, when I cast I will watch my line fall to the surface, as the jig sinks I watch where the line enters the water, it appears to be being sucked down and racing back towards the rod tip. It is very obvious, when the line goes limp you have reached bottom. From that point I just sneak the jig along the bottom with the occasional twitch. I love to feel the the jig working through rocks and staying in touch with the bottom. If I feel resistance I apply slightly more pressure, with enough experience you will feel a little 'give' or not. If it feels mushy I set the hook. Sometimes it doesn't pan out as a fish and you just wedged your jig in a bunch of rocks. This brings up the next technique to master, trying to slingshot the jig from between the rocks.
Posted by: solotripper Posted on: Nov 14th, 2013 at 9:05pm
I do know that when I tie to the spinner directly, I need to adjust where the knot ends up after each fish or it will run funny.
I was told by an old guy that fished spinners exclusively and just killed on his lake that you needed to tie directly to spinner period.
I tried various quick connect methods because I didn't want to re-tie every time I switched lures/type of bait.
Everything I tried ended tangled in spinner so I tied direct.
The old fisherman used to take a small piece of waterproof black electricians tape and wrap a few turns in the crook of spinner where you tie on. Said it enabled the knot to cinch down tight and eliminated adjusting it every cast.
Seems to work, but I'm wondering if there is a way to use some sort of quick connect set-up so you don't have to re-tie every time or worry about line moving on wire?