Old Salt wrote on Feb 23^rd, 2015 at 3:52am:


Yes the snap weights are an excellent choice as I detest 3 way set ups out of a canoe as tangles are more likely.

Sure catching lakers (or any fish for that matter) can be accomplished with tried and true methods. But for me the fun of fishing is trying new things. Let me illustrate......

When I was a kid we used to ride our bikes to various "fishing holes"........after ignoring the "No trespassing" signs and climbing over or under the fence we would go about the business of fishing. My partner in crime would clean up on a regular gold rapala. The Bass in the private ponds and gravel pits we would frequent were fat and on the large side.

Even though I knew I could catch them on the rapala (I showed him the lure) I was always trying something different. We would try and get out of dodge while it was still early morning and for several trips my pal would boast how he had "put it to me". Then on one trip I hit on the ultimate lure........a Wiggly Crawler (which unfortunately they no longer make). I had 5 bass over 5lbs which was the best catch that either of us had ever accomplished (I was fishing with a 9' antique split bamboo fly rod with a spinning reel taped to it which finally broke on the last big fish).

So sure, you can catch fish the tried and true methods, or you can think outside the box and really hit the jackpot as well as the satisfaction that comes from doing things your own way.

I use a snap to attach drop weight to main line. Depending on depth desired, I will use up to 4oz. Less mostly. Flutter spoon will be 5-6' behind snap weight.

That way as I'm reeling in fish, I can release weight and drop in canoe.

Old Salt wrote on Feb 23^rd, 2015 at 3:52am:


Drop weights? Assume you are talking about a three way swivel set up vs. in line sinker? A foot or two of leader down to the swivel and back to the flutter spoon? Thanks for the clarification.

I don't see any need for dodgers and flashers for canoe fishing. I've used drop weights with flutter spoons effectively, along with mylar spoons and deep cranks. All you need.

Yes Jax you can turn the clicker on to let out line but a word to the wise........make sure you actually do put the clicker on before you engage free spool or otherwise you will have disasterous results. If you are spooled with braid a small pair of nippers will help in getting rid of the enormous birds nest you are guaranteed to have when free spool and diving aid collide.

Occasionally I forget (being old and oft tired) or get the sequencing wrong (first the clicker and then the free spool you idiot!).

For that reason (and I hate hearing the clicker) I prefer to spin the drag to let line out. Rather easily accomplished on a little bigger star drag reel.

more on topic, however, i use spoons occasionally, shorter heavier little cleo spoons for casting from shore and longer flutter spoons for trolling behind jets/dipsys. i never put anything like a dodger/flasher in front of them, but always made sure they had glow tape on them. i also only use them when i have someone else in the canoe with me and they are using a rattling crank bait. something to make noise. thats my 'attractant'

mastertangler wrote on Feb 21^st, 2015 at 9:34pm:

this! i dont back off the drag to release line as MT does, i simply free spool the linecounter but turn on the clicker. the clicker on my linecounter, a magda pro size 30, provides enough resistance to let line out while crankbaits dive, dipsys dip, and jet divers jet, then if something happens to strike while letting line out, i just slap the lever and the spool engages and its go time!

i use 30 lb suffix 832 (braid) (same diameter as 10lb mono) as the main line and then 12 lb suffix seige (mono) as a leader between the dipsy/jet and the lure.

i use 30 lb suffix 832 braid because it has the same diameter as 10lb mono for the information from the precision trolling data book and app for smartphones. i carry a small laminated card in my tackle tray with common lures/depths and how much line to achieve them. i have the app on my phone, i dont own the book. its a neat little thing, some guy spent a lot of time figuring out how deep lures run based on how much line you have out. he used 10 lb mono as his line for all the tests (originally) so that is why i matched the diameter for my braid.

I'm not a big lake trout guy but I keep getting better. My focus has largely been on crank baits for lakers but I have pulled a dipsy/flutter spoon for lakers with no tangling problems.

I think you could rather easily put a flasher out if you wanted to. Use lots of ball bearing swivels at all junctions and keep everything "in line" with shortish leads. Remember you will have to land the fish and if your running 4' leads things could get dicey.

Rod holders become very important IMO with all specialty type trolling scenarios. As well as using braid and conventional tackle (bait casters). For example, I can get my track going with no real need to go balls to the walls, have my rod in the holder with set up trailing along barely in the water and then loosen my star drag to the point line feeds out in a nice steady controlled flow.......no opening the bail of a spinning outfit while loads of line send a sinker, flasher etc. etc. plummeting and spinning towards the bottom. Can you say "tangles"? Can you say "hassle"?

If trolling is your "thing" while in canoe country (certainly is for me) then there is no substitute for a good rod holder and conventional reels (preferably a line counter).

Just get your paddling better half in peak paddling shape and she'll be able to keep that forward momentum fast enough you might be able to deply your set-up with no problem.
Once it's running straight/tangle fee on a angle behind canoe and your moving, you should be okay.

Hmmm. Deploying. I keep forgetting about that ... until I'm on the water.