Mossback, sorry for the long delay in getting back to you.

Thanks for the nice comments on my website.  I enjoy taking the time with those details.

The Independence has 2.5" of rocker in both ends so it's pretty maneuverable.  I found that paddling it level involved a lot of strong correction strokes.  Leaning it 10-20 degrees made it more sensitive to correction strokes, thus easier to maneuver.  This is all well and good in moving water and flatwater with minimal wind.

When the wind picks up it's hard to control unless the wind is either directly ahead or astern.  I can't attach a picture of me paddling my Indy in a quartering tailwind but you can see it in the bottom half of this page: (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links).

I'm doing a strong sweep stroke on the left side, but the wake indicates the boat is slewing to the right.  And that's with my main pack behind me.  I just could not get the stern to stick deep enough to resist the yawing force of the wind.

Earlier in this trip, I was in a quartering headwind and crosswind, having the devil of a time controlling the boat.  So I lashed my two paddles together with a couple of velcro straps and made a short double paddle.  It's the only time I've done that and it worked great.  So your idea of doing it makes a lot of sense.

I sold the Indy two years ago.  It took two boats to replace it, a Blackhawk Ariel for rivers and a Hemlock Peregrine for tripping and other flatwater.

Quote:


I'd look to see IF you can find silicone caulk AND adhesive which is made for HOLDING as well as sealing. Even with that extra hold over 100% caulk I doubt it would stand up to the torque you'll be putting that foot brace through. I think that epoxy Wally used is the way to go. You'd hate to have that foot-brace come loose/off when you needed it the most. 

Wally,  Thanks for the photos of some of your solo gear, but I am afraid that prompted more questions.  I was glad to see your footbrace pics.  I had already bought a Wenonah brace and was wringing my hands about drilling rivet holes.  I ordered stainless perforated studs from Mcmaster-Carr and planned to use clear 100% silicone caulk.

Do you think the silicone will be strong enough?  I was also surprised to see the brace mounted so high?  I searched for a standard dimension off the floor but came up empty?

Can I assume the blue squares are just painters tape to limit the epoxy?

What is the purpose of the 2 short pieces of black pipe insulation?  Knee pads for Gunwales maybe?

Standard apologies for all the questions.

Regards,

MossBack

Gavia,  Besides plagiarizing ideas I am also happy to admit my ignorance and ask for help or clarification.   Make me understand your comments about the Indy related to "sticking the stern", is that to say you are trimming for an abnormally heavy stern to keep the wind from blowing it flat?    Why do  you suggest moving the weight to the far ends?  So it does not pivot so easily and tracks better?

I have always been puzzled by the information I have found on the Indy that seems to  contradict itself.  Factory specs list it in the Moving Water category, yet for tracking give it an 8 out of 10.  Other factory literature claims it as "Our performance solo touring canoe" and one more boasts "Our best flatwater solo boat"

My reality is I have little enough time in it to have good confidence in bigger water.  So I am planning a trip from Prairie to the end of the Man Chain and back.  I am taking a double ended paddle at ST suggestion, although have not yet tried it,  and some time ago purchased a set of  Cooke covers to minimize wind effect and keep some of the waves out.  My guess would be all of the gear purchases will not make up for lack of skill on my part.

Final note, your website is quite impressive and you have devoted much time to give details.  Thank You for the effort, and additional information on the Independence.

Regards,
MossBack

I've done 7 or 8 solo BW trips.  I triple portaged on one of the first ones, when I was carrying 90+ lbs.  Since then I've trimmed the load to about 85 lbs, and that includes a chair.

Double portaging, on the first trip I carry the boat and the small pack, 20-25 lbs.  With a heavier boat, say, 55 lbs, I'd take the day pack instead.  With a lighter boat, say, 40 lbs, it's much easier.

On the second trip I carry one large pack of about 50 lbs and my 10-12 lb daypack.  The daypack goes in front where it helps counterbalance the weight behind.

The boat comes across first so that when I arrive on the second trip I can put the boat in the water and drop the pack in without having to pick it up a second time.  It saves wear and tear on this 66-year-old body.

More info and pictures of loaded and unloaded boats on my website, (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links).

MossBack wrote on Jul 23^rd, 2016 at 3:47am:


Ah, the wonderful Indy!  I took mine on a few BW trips and loved the way it handled the small water and rivers.  I had trouble with it in windy conditions, though.  Even with my 50# pack behind me, I couldn't stick the stern enough to compensate for an oblique tailwind.  So beware the effects of all that rocker and be sure you can put weight all the way into the ends.

On my recent solo trip I used two bags— one Duluth #3 Camp Kitchen (45 pounds) that held my tent, sleeping bag and pad, clothes, rain gear, tarp, cook kit, and back up fishing tackle. The side pockets held loose stuff like extra batteries, notebook, trowel, etc. My second bag is a Duluth portage pack, which held all my food (15 pounds).

My tackle box attaches to a thwart and never leaves the canoe. Rods are likewise secured.

I usually portage the canoe first, then go back for the two bags. The portage pack clips on the front of my #3.

Works for me.

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Lean and mean. Used to do the same backpacking but as I got older I like the little luxuries.

My main secret for reducing gear to one pack; I don't fish when solo tripping.

Otherwise for shelter: A CCS 10x10 Tundra tarp, Big Agnes Copper Spur 1 tent.
Sleeping: Nemo Cosmo 25 insulated pad, Enlightened Equipment down quilt, Nemo pillow, Egyptian cotton liner.
Food: steel cut oatmeal and polenta with dried cherries and clarified butter for breakfast. Nuts, dried fruit, sausage/jerky some candy for lunch, Dinners of dehydrated beans (cook in 12-15min), rice with varying veggies and spices portioned and packed (about 1.5-2 cups dry/meal), a pasta meal or two, chocolate for dessert. Top quality Coffee (36oz/week). Food is packed into Sealline dry bags for transport and hanging.
Cook kit: One or two pot, bowl, double walled stainless mug, titanium spork, aeropress for coffee, Dragonfly stove 44oz fuel
Clothing:white merino wool t-shirt and shorts for travel, another pair of shorts and a short sleeve shirt for camp. Mid weight merino long sleeve shirt, thin nylon pants (in case the bugs get bad), a bug shirt, a couple of pairs of extra merino socks. A  couple of camp towels. Clothing and sleep system are each placed in small E-vent compression sacks (water proof and pack small)
Luxuries: A 7X9" Chemistry notebook journal, Kindle. Helinox chair (bringing it rules out using the smaller Granite gear pack). 8-16 oz bourbon.
Various: small first aid kit, gallon size "repair" kit, two ropes and pulley for hanging, dry shoes (my bane, running shoes take up more room than clothes or sleeping bag (size 13), a dslr, 3/4 tripod, camera kit, perhaps another lens (long and heavy but with great reach), a compact camera for traveling shots. BlackDiamond headlamp. Fixed blade knife, 175gm Disccraft Frisbee.

simple thwart bag contains 6litre collapsable water carrier, bungee dealees, Chrismar map (try to not use the map), sunscreen and bug dope, spot gen2

That's about it.

Nice set-up for the people who make fishing their priority. That is a simple transducer set up.

I read various discussions about the merits of just shooting thru hull and any possible  signal "loss" doing it that way. Since I had no real experience/knowledge either way, I decided I would blend some ideas together and see how they worked.

That 1st pic is a little confusing becasue it's BEFORE I attached the transducer to the hull. The round plastic tub I attached to bow with silicone adhesive using an X inside a circle pattern. I cut slit in side of screw lid container and then drilled hole the size of transducer cable.

You put transducer in container and to hold tight to bottom I used that white closed cell foam piece you see at top of pic. Then I filled tub with water and screwed on the lid. Even on portages the water stayed in.

I don't know if that helped or not, but it was easy enough to do. I didn't leave it attached, I just used a knife and peeled it off the end of trip.

I don't take fish finder on traveling trips I wanted something quick and easy for base-camp ones like that Fall trip.

ps,
I have rod covers BUT I like that neoprene idea. Never knew about those, will check out. Thanks for that.