club,
I went through there back in 2008. Don't remember if that was before or after the dam collapsed as we encountered some sizable ones en route. Our put-in was at Wisa Lake and entry into the park was at Three Mile Lake, so we traveled north on Bearpelt Creek (I'm only "guessing" the dam was located along that creek). I recall it was a bit of a slug getting through but it wouldn't have exceptionally bad had I not been sick-as-a-dog at the time. Anyway, travel up that creek was about par. I seem to recall our biggest trouble down in that region was finding the Bearpelt/Badwater portage from the Bearpelt side.
You're right about wildlife spotting opportunities. Of course, walleye fishing was pretty good in there, too. If your objective is to get down to Bearpelt from the north, I wouldn't imagine water level having much of an impact on that travel from that direction. It would be the creek coming up from Wolseley Lake that I'd be worried about. Maybe I'm thinking about the wrong dam, though. It's possible.
For it's worth, I believe we passed by Bearpelt and camped on Omeme Lake, if I'm not mistaken. We came in from the south because I wanted to tackle the Badwater portage after I had chewed down my food pack some. As it turned out, even that portage was not as bad as advertised. Some new corduroy had been laid down and, since it wasn't floating around, footing on it was somewhat reasonable. Another party traveling with us elected to exit Badwater via Bee, Brown, Lynx & Robin. I think it's fair to say that turned out to be a far worse choice.
I suspect Jim J. Solo and maybe Solotripper have been down in that general area more recently. If so, maybe one of them will chime in.
Good luck with your trip planning.
Jimbo