canoe_junkie wrote on Mar 11^th, 2007 at 2:27am:

This link died.  Here's the new one:
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"access your oven from behind."  Every time I read that it gives me the giggles.

canpaddle wrote on Feb 19^th, 2009 at 7:35pm:

If I understand your question, the top depth (narrow top) is simply a design option.  In my opinion, having a thinner top piece that then joins with another angular piece is an unnecessary complication (although, it would result in dropping the overall height by a couple of inches).   This adaptation could also result in slightly better stove performance.  However, from my experience, the single piece, V-shaped top produces reasonably quick cooking times.

Ultimately, it just a matter of establishing enough overall depth to be able to accept the cooking pan you are using.

dd

canpaddle wrote on Feb 22^nd, 2009 at 4:32am:

I started out building one of these ... kind of a box wrapped in aluminum foil. It worked very well.  I generally used it to bake things using a camp stove as a heat source.  But then, that took a fair amount of fuel.  What actually spurred me on to look at a reflector-type oven was the amount of time it took to assemble/disassemble the unit.  Then there were all the small parts.  I knew eventually I'd loose something critical and then I'd be without.  So the erector set model made one trip before being retired.

My current stove uses a very similar design to that show as the "Old Scout" model.  However, it differs in that (a) it uses no fasteners and (b) I added a rear-access port.  The parts are held together only by friction of the parts themselves.  The slots are not cut in a straight line, but rather with a slight wavy pattern.  This gives the pieces enough bite to stay together on their own.  (So no parts to loose here.)  After using it in the field the first time, and having a few things over-cook, I decided to add the rear-access panel.  The back panel is a bit smaller, but taller than the original back panel.  The extra height was then rounded/folded to make a lip that hangs on the original back panel,  which now has a hole cut in it what is approximately 1/2" narrower than the access panel and about 1" shorter.  I then cut outward 1/4"+ at each corner of the back panel and bent/rounded the metal to make a guide for the two sides of the access panel.  This arrangement means that you should have almost no heat loss out the back.  I figure I can use an extra metal skewer (also used for the baking rack) under the overturned top lip to raise/lower the panel for inspection.  But the good news in all of this is that all the parts lay flat for storage.

dd

Puckster wrote on Mar 27^th, 2009 at 3:31am:

I made (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) (from plans I got from QPassage) before Old Scout started manufacturing them.  My version doesn't need fasteners.  

There are several threads about buying and/or making them.  I'll see what I can find.

You can see what I did by looking at the beginning of this thread.

dd

Puckster wrote on Mar 27^th, 2009 at 3:31am:


I swear by this (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) light weight comparably speaking. Seems to have gotten a little pricey since I bought mine.