8# mono is my preference.  Maybe it's old school.  It's what I like.  No brand preference.  I spend the middle road.

5 years ago I tried a braid.  Learned that it really needs a sacrificial mono leader.  Super durable, this stuff doesn't break.  I lost a lot of line on a deep water snag.  Cut myself fairly deep trying to yank it free.

All spinning tackle.

4# trilene xt (it doesnt kink as bad as the other styles, but brand probably doesnt matter much) on the spinning rod for jigging walleyes and the past few years ive been using 14# fireline on the baitcaster. i got some 15# power pro a little bit ago and the stuff seems to really be a good line. casts a bit nicer and doesnt dig in the spool as bad, but then again im comparing 4 year old fireline to fresh from the spool power pro. the p-pro is a smaller diameter and is round (opposed to the flat fireline) which i prefer.

I've become a big fan of Berkeley Fireline Tracer Braid in 10 lb for my spinning gear.  I used it last year for a 3 week trip in the Q with great success.

I would like to fish against someone with the fireline just to see how things stack up. I have never fished it although I have fished power pro for a long time.

There is no question as to the sensitivity factor with braids. Yes, you will feel every little pebble that you bump up against. You can also troll deeper as the thinness of the line catches less water and thus your lure travels deeper. You can also run lures WAY back and still feel the bite AND set the hook with nothing more than a flick of the wrist.

Braids have some disadvantages as well. Power pro can be a bear to untangle if it gets a birds nest IMO. I generally start cutting rather than spend ten minutes getting it untangled only to have it do it again 5 casts later. Braids are also much more visible to the fish. That's probably the biggest reason I don't use it in the clear water of canoe country. The lack of stretch can also mean pulled hooks as well because there is no shock absorbing action that the stretch in mono has. The addition of leaders adds another layer of complication although it can be very effective. You must tie the FC with absolute preciseness to the braid however. It can be a royal pain in the rear at times especially if the wind is blowing you across the lake and tangling your sewing thread braid. Can you spell H-A-S-S-L-E? Lastly, All (myself included) have likely shared Preachers fate and had a good cut before the respect was developed.

One year I brought the castable FC only to have every spool fail after being exposed to an all day downpour. It was P-line FC and P-line is usually top of the line stuff. No more castable FC for me although many of the bass pros and guides I know use Bass Pro shops castable FC. They despise Vanish FC BTW.

I'm with Jaximus when I use 4lb..... Green trilene XT is tops in my book and I have beat some very big fish with it. I use it infrequently however and only on those sunny still days when the bite is tough. My go-to line is Gamma mono in 6 and 8. I always spool fresh line before a trip.

The mono is certainly less sensitive and a 6th sense is helpful. I set the hook on just about everything. Bump a weed and I'm likely to flick my wrist. Get a bit of slack and I'm reeling like mad to catch up. It's surprising how often those are fish.

My suggestion is to have a backup spool of what your used to in case the new stuff isn't all it's cracked up to be.  

All different answers prove it doesn't make a diff.  Just put something on and start fishing.

Those who choose to use Fireline Crystal or any of the braids remember to use a layer or two of mono backing on the reel spool. This is very important. These lines are very slippery and will spin on the spool if you don't.
Also, avoid the temptation to use any thing more than 10lb test as it is really overkill in canoe country. The thinner line is less visible to fish, allows lures to dive deeper and is easier to break when absolutely necessary. It is very dangerous to wet skin however.
On one trip last year which happened to be my third in 7 weeks my hands were so beat up from handling fish that I decided to wear gloves and found that mechanic's gloves work really well for handling fish and operating reels. I had them along for bushwhacking which they work really well for also BTW. They also provide sun protection and prevent getting cut when snagged. I've got them on in this video.

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I do not use any kind of "invsible" leader like mono or fluoro. I don't think these park fish are pressured enough to make tying leaders worth the effort. I do use steel or titanium leaders always when trolling, can't afford to lose too many baits cuz I don't bring that many along.

I also carry a spare spool loaded with 8lb mono but rarely use it.

I think you should use a line that you like and can tie good knots with. Then get the bait to the fish. They don't care what kind of line you're using.

Kingfisher wrote on Feb 16^th, 2011 at 6:22am:


KF brings up one of the most important points relating to the use of braided line......and that is to have gloves. It makes it much easier to tie knots and to be able to test the knots safely.

Where I part company with him however (and it certainly is not my intent to "one up him"......I would be the pupil in most things relating to canoe camping) is the type of gloves to use. I would not venture salt water fishing without my fish fighting gloves. They are light, tough, and fingerless. You don't know you have them on. Glacier gloves used to make the Dr. shade fingerless stripping gloves and I bought 7 pair after I knew they would be discontinued. The new Dr. shade gloves look to be OK....... (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

What is nice about fingerless is you still have superior motor skills. Wrap the braid around your wrist while wearing the gloves 2 or 3 times and snug your knots. You can also paddle all day with these on. Very light yet ample protection.

The question I always have for those who are less concerned with presentation even in less pressured areas is "how do you know"?

How do you know if using straight braid isn't costing you the big ones? If your main goal is to just get something to grease the skillet then fine. But just how do you come to the conclusion that it doesn't make any difference? You have no way of knowing if Mr. Big is veering off unless of course you fish side by side over an extended period of time with someone who is fishing a more subtle presentation.

The example I am going to give may not prove my point but then again it may. Just something to consider is all.

I learned to offshore bottom fish via headboat (party boat). It was common to go out 75 to 100 miles. These fish see very little in the way of pressure as it is out of range for the average boater. It was common to have 30 or 40 anglers on the boat. Surprise, surprise it was always the same 6 or 7 guys that came back with unbelievable catches. Some were even making a living on the boat by winning the jackpots and selling their catch. The fellow I admired most took me under his wing and taught me a great deal about tackle and presentation.

I still go out on the party boats but not as often and have moved up to a somewhat legendary Captain who only takes 6 guys at a time (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links). Much better......no cigar smoke and no F-bombs every 10 minutes. I have seen it time and again where one fellow is smackin them while everyone else is just sitting there. Often it has to do with the line test. To thick and to visible and no bites....period.

The point I'm making is had I not been with other people who were catching fish while I just stood there I would of thought they were not hungry or there was none around. Presentation matters no matter where your at especially for the larger fish. That is my thinking and until someone is able to put a whoopin on me out on the water I'm stickin to my guns.

last year was the first year I used braided line in canoe country. Previously it was always mono. We had a great year and half way throught the trip the mono was just plain wore out from too many fish . That won't happen again.

I use 6# mono Maxima and Stren are my brands of choice.

My son has used braided every year and fishing out of the same canoe there has been no noticible differnece between who catches more or less.

If you do get snagged use your pliers to break the line off.. Just wrap the line around one of the handles 2 or 3 times (pull) and then you won't dice up your fingers.

So MT am I correct in assuming that you do not use a leader? Because for anyone using a steel or titanium leader as I do then line visibility is of far less importance.

Like Jaximus I use my spool of 8lb mono for finesse fishing only.

Kingfisher wrote on Feb 17^th, 2011 at 7:51am:


I spent last summers trip trolling and was never nipped off once. I know it can and does happen but usually only once or twice per trip. If large walleyes are my goal you will likely find me running 6lb even with the deep divers. That puts a lot of strain on the line and all has to be perfect from fresh line to not tying to a split ring to having the 8' steelhead rod which loads very nicely and gently to protect the line.

If traveling is more my goal then I up the lb test as to not spend so long in landing the fish. I will not have any 6lb test in WCPP as I don't want to get bogged down.

If big Pike are the goal I will run one of 3 kinds of leaders. Either a 100lb FC leader or I will build a single strand leader myself. Very stealthy the single strand with a minimum of hardware. If the fish are abundant however they will bend the single strand and I will go to the titanium especially if I need to make time. I had the bass pro shops titanium leaders fail BTW  

when it comes to braids it matters which rod you have quite a bit. i have a fast action tip rod with a medium action backbone. the rod is nearly as sensitive as my jig rod and loads real smooth and fast. the rod tip makes up for the lack of stretch in the braid. also when trolling i have the drag set pretty light so when a decent fish hits, the drag gives a little line back. when i set the hook i thumb the spool which gives a little play, but not as much as the drag would normally allow. its not that i need to compensate for the braid, its just the way i fish suits it perfectly.

also, im the lucky and unlucky kind of guy at the same time. i seem to find the hot lure, but i have the bad luck of always hooking into pike no matter where i am or what im doing. they just love to eat my lures, and with that i run an 8" leader. usually south bends invisaleader. people that are lucky and can avoid the pike can get away with not running a leader, but something about me must draw them to my stuff. i just cant afford to not run the leader, and because of that, i tie the braid straight to the wire.

with that said, however, i went to gander yesterday and picked up a small spool of the P-line flourocarbon and some tiny barrel swivels. i tied a 2 foot section of flouro as a leader. i ended up getting 12# stuff because it was in the clearance bin. i had some trouble tying the polomar knot, which is what all the internet sources recommended. i dont know if it was just because it was 12# test or if all flourocarbons are that hard to tie? any advice would be great. took me 15 minutes and 2 pairs of pliers to get 2 good looking knots...

what kind of swivel snaps do you guys use?

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i tend to avoid #2 and #3 like the plague. i try to stick to #5 because that one has always worked well for me. i had to use #1 this last trip and didnt have issues with it, but i dont really trust it. #3 is the worst design in my opinion because when you put tension on it, the angle of the force pulls the swivel open.

after a bit of research, the bass pro shops titanium leader seems to have the #5 clip on it. is that the model that you had issues with?
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or is that a modification from the model you dislike?

Nice pics.
The BassPro leaders were #2 (runny crap)
I've had probs in the past with #3 too
besides, both are bulky and I can't help but think they mess with the action of some lures.
Have used #1 most frequently (pretty good)
Replaced the leader snaps with #4 (i like so far)
#5 looks good (except not symmetrical) never used

BWCABlogLady wrote on Feb 17^th, 2011 at 7:06pm:

I've had this problem, but it has always been due to using cheaper line & overfilling the spool.  Once I upgraded to mid-cost or higher line & filling to about 1/4" of the spool it went away.


Re Snap Swivels.  I avoid them unless I'm targetting toothy fish, then I'll use a wire leader.  I do run a barrel swivel to control line twist.  My preference is to tie directly to the lure.

jaximus wrote on Feb 17^th, 2011 at 3:58pm:


I use a lot of FC but usually don't mess with it in canoe country although I am definitely a believer. I like the seaguar brand FC. I have also used Gamma FC with good results. I am suspicious of what you have being in the clearance rack. One might ask why? Perhaps it is really, really old. See if you can return it would be my suggestion.

Some thoughts on FC. You must snug your knots slowly and they should be wet. I like to alternately tighten and relax and then tighten some more. FC has a tendency to get hot real fast when you tighten a knot. That will ruin your chances. Take your time snugging it down.

I have had some "issues" tying FC to very small diameter wire like tiny spro barrel swivels. I dislike the polamar under any circumstances although it is a darling of some very good fishermen including tournament pros. I have seen a study where the polamar does not do well under sudden loads. Steady pressure good......sudden load bad.

If you are set on using the tiny barrel swivels try this. Double your line and tie a 3 turn improved clinch knot. Make sure all the loops stay organized. With the line doubled it will be actually 6 turns. You must have enough tag end to be able to tighten the tag and the running line together at the same time. This is an excellent knot and is usually 100% although it is a little bulky. This knot was tested as one of the very strongest for mono. I was surprised to say the least.

Have you considered a solid ring instead of a barrel swivel? I use that connection quite a bit. Works very nicely and the slightly added thickness of the wire makes for a little better tie and it is still fairly discreet.

Mostly I use a tie fast knot tool with FC. Works very well. If you are still having trouble even with the tie fast (use the gryp knot) then vary the amount of loops. More loops for thin line less for thick.

If after all this you can't get one to stick throw it in the trash and get some seaguar from some place where you know it is fresh. Yes FC can be frustrating until you get it down but when it's right good things can happen for you.  

Anybody have experience with Suffix mono?

New member catching up on old discussions and thought I'd throw in my 2 cents.
For trolling cranks, my standard set up is a med. action baitcaster loaded with 10# fireline crystal and a 24"-30" length of 12# FC leader material using a uni to uni knot.....no barrel swivel.
Counting wraps on the baitcaster allows me to take the guesswork out of line length / lure depth and quickly puts me back in the zone.
For the spinning outfit when fishing topwater or casting cranks I've always been an 8# XL guy however, 2 years ago started using 8# Vicious (low vis) and don't think I'll go back. If I'm finesse fishing clear water for eyes I'll switch spools and go back to 4 or 6# XL. This year I may try out one of the new flouros from P-line.

MA, thanks for the heads up.

The last thing I want during my treasured time in the Q is downtime or lost fish. I think I'll stick with my tried and true XL or XT as it's rarely (if ever) let me down.

I can't help but wonder if P-line has reformulated around the water absorption issue / tensile issues with their new FC offerings since your bad experience a few years ago. With all the improvements in the past several years to reduce memory, improve castability, etc., something tells me you weren't the only person to have knot strength issues related to waterlogged line, and maybe they've addressed that as well.

Regardless, I think I'll leave my evaluations to the trout streams until I know for sure.

first off, welcome aboard! its always nice to expand with new people! 

i am an XT guy through and through and this year i changed it up a bit. i moved up to 6lb from my usual 4lb and changed from clear/low vis green over to red. this is mainly because at the end of may i will be graduating college and moving to my new home with my lovely new wife (in august) along the wisconsin river. the red line really blends into the water well because the red spectrum disappears first because of the lack of light penetration in the stained waters of a river. first outing there with the new line i pulled in a 44 1/2" muskie on my ultralite rod. was quite the adventure!

one of the lakes my group frequents up in the Q, jesse, is quite stained as well. our favorite lake, oriana, is a bit more clear but i feel the red line wont really hurt me there either, seeing as most fish we pull out of that lake are in the 8-12' deep range.

i know a lot of guys that change their line all the time and use different stuff for different lakes, applications, etc. i usually go 2-3 years on one spool of mono and i just replaced the fireline on my baitcaster after 9 years and i still catch lots of fish. i never really have an issue with breakoffs, even at the 4lb test level. if you use the same line, you have a better knowledge of how it reacts in certain conditions whereas if you are always changing lines, you have to be constantly changing how you fish it.

my personal opinion has always been and always will be that if you have to change line for every application, then you arent fishing right. if you break your line off in big fish, you arent doing your best job. im a huge backreel kinda guy and i really dislike the drag, so its a style thing maybe. all the new lines that are coming out that are better for this style or that style, remember that people used to catch huge numbers and big fish back in the day with super thick mono/braids. if you are using the right lure and presenting it properly, im a huge believer in the fish will bite no matter what line you have.

so the bottom line is, use what you are most comfortable with because then instead of worrying about your line, you can worry about which lure and how to present it. but up in the Q, in the famous words of our own solotripper, "For the casual/meal fisherman, just keeping a line in the water as much as possible will do the trick 99% of the time. " you cant catch fish if you are always changing spools of line or tying new stuff on because you listened to someone else and used line that you arent comfortable with.

i always carry two rods. the jig rod with mono for any sort of finesse stuff and a baitcaster with 15lb fireline/powerpro. anything that costs more than a few cents (your chatterbait, topwater, or cranks) goes on the baitcaster where im not afraid its gonna break off if i get snagged. i have a tight budget. all the finesse stuff gets done with the mono.

mastertangler wrote on Apr 22^nd, 2011 at 3:19pm:


Good to know you're not seriously considering reducing your meds. Keep on keepin' on.

I'm heading to WCPP and giving 8-lb. P-Line a try for the first time. I went with the FloroClear, with the idea that it has a bit of the FC's invisibility but the strength of a copolymer. I'm bringing a short baitcaster with a few big baits to go after a toothy critter or two.

Mad_Birdman wrote on Apr 24^th, 2011 at 12:44am:


I like co-polymers in general and I like P-line but I'm picking out a few items that don't seem to go together that well;

8lb test
baitcaster
big baits

Just trying to help........just my opinion
want to talk it through?

MT