Snap Weight Rigging (Read 3792 times)
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Inukshuk
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Snap Weight Rigging
Jun 19th, 2012 at 9:10pm
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This is a great method for fishing waldos and lakers. Could also be used for giant northerns in deep water.

All of us are familiar with Lindy Rigs or live bait rigs. Some use 3-way rigs with a weight on a dropper line.

I've found an easier, more versatle rig that works well for canoe trips. Snap weight clips are sold by Off Shore Tackle. I use the OR16 size. Use is simple. Attach the provided split rings to the clip.

Now here's the fun part. We all know how crucial it is to keep our tackle weight and bulk low enough so that we aren't tempted to empty the tackle box in the middle of a long, tough portage. Grin

I can use any combination of weight from 1-5oz and only carry 5 oz. I carry 1 1oz, and 2 2oz teardrop sinkers. The snap can go whereever you want to attach it on your main line.

For 3oz, attach both 1&2 oz sinkers.
For 4oz, attach both 2oz sinkers.
For 5oz, attach all 3 sinkers.

I actually seldom use more than 2-3 oz as many fish will come up for a bait better than go down for a bait. I will attach the 1oz to one snap and the 2oz to the other snap. I attach the two snaps next to each other, so that the weights will bang together, creating the noise to attract fish. The sinkers are usually 4-6' ahead of the lure. A great lure to use are flutter spoons w/ mylar. You can also use Rapalas or any deep diver.

If I want to use live bait (I know all about the ban in Canuckland), use Gulp minnows or leeches. They work just as well. Just slowly paddle or wind-drift likely looking spots (or where you just hooked a fish using above method. The sinker banging the bottom will call waldo home for dinner. Wink

Anyway, try it on your next trip! Smiley
  
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moonman
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Re: Snap Weight Rigging
Reply #1 - Jun 19th, 2012 at 9:40pm
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Couldn't agree more on the snap weights. I've mentioned them a bunch of times on various forums, not that they are new, having come out in the 90's. Still, a lot of people seem reluctant to try them. We all are used to our own techniques and seldom try new things (I'm as guilty as everyone else on that score) . Besides that, other methods like dipseys and 3 way rigs do work, just I have found that snap weights are by far the best system for getting deep fast, they cut through the water, easily un-clip to fight the fish with no weight on the line, and as you mentioned take up hardly any space in your tackle box. The only thing different I do, especially when trolling for lakers, is cast out my lure before attaching the weight. I find I get more hits with the weight further away from the lure.

Moonman.
  
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mastertangler
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Re: Snap Weight Rigging
Reply #2 - Jun 19th, 2012 at 11:44pm
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Beautiful.......

I couldn't agree more on fish coming up for a bait before they will go down for one.

Hadn't really thought of the sinkers banging together.......rather crafty!

I'll be bringing these into Basswood (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

Sort of like a snap weight but without the flexibility (I'm lugging quite a few different weights Tongue )....... I was looking at hooking 2 of the larger models together. They look so much like a fish though I'm worried a little pike is going to deprive me of them!

And yes I have rather large flutter spoons already packed! Great minds think alike Roll Eyes  Grin  Cool
  
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Kerry
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Re: Snap Weight Rigging
Reply #3 - Jun 20th, 2012 at 10:23pm
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Up until now I have never heard of snap weights but then I’ve only been fishing in earnest for the past 2 or 3 years.  My big canoe trips are typically for the month of August and as I go further north, to be successful fishing I have to be able to go deep.  This summer I’ll be headed to WCPP for most of August and that means Walleye and Lake Trout.  In the past I’ve mostly used deep diving (15 – 30 ft.) jerk and stick baits – Pointers, Stayzees and Taildancers – and I’ve had pretty good success.  But I’ve often imagined something like these snap weights (even though I didn’t know they existed.)  When I read this post I immediately Googled snap weights and was pretty impressed – they look inexpensive, easy to use and effective which sounds like a good formula to me.  Anyway I’ve got some questions and I hope you all will bear with me.
Just so you know, I fish with a baitcaster lined with 30# 832 braid which I love.  I don’t carry a depth finder or use a line counter but I will be trying out a Scotty rod holder for the first time this trip.
Okay, so a few questions.
First, is Off Shore the brand to use, are they all pretty much the same or is there some other brand(s) that you all would recommend?
Second, as I say, up until now I’ve fished for both Walleye and Lake Trout (though I’ve done a lot more Walleye fishing than Laker) exclusively using deep diving stick and jerk baits (or shallow divers around outflows.)  I’ve had pretty good success but I’m always up for something different and hopefully effective.  My reading suggests that I can still use jerk baits with the snap weight system.  But, given the snap weight, will I want to switch from deep (15 – 30 ft) to shallow divers (3 – 5 ft?)
Second, I haven’t used spinner baits much at all but it sounds like they would be very effective with snap weights.  What size and type of spinner bait would be most effective here – a Mepps in-line type or an overhead safety pin type?  I imagine the latter would be less likely to snag on the bottom.
Third, as I’m using braid, will the snap weights tend to slip?  Although I’m thinking that wrapping the line around the snap before clipping it on would probably solve that problem.
Thanks for the info and whatever else you can offer.
  
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moonman
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Re: Snap Weight Rigging
Reply #4 - Jun 21st, 2012 at 1:44pm
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Hi Kerry,

I can answer some of these questions. First yes, the snap weights will want to slip more on the braid. Just move it back a bit to  the rear of the release pad, like setting a down rigger release for really big fish. Also, the heavier the braid the less slippage. Also, Offshore tackle is the brand I use. They were big planer board manufacturers before they came out with the snap weights so I think their releases work well. Plus they are nice and small, a perfect match for the job. I'm sure other brands will work as well though, although I haven't seen many with such a small release. If thinking lakers, I would definitely use flutter spoons instead of spinnerbaits. Lakers love flutter spoons. Also, spinnerbaits will have way more resistance on the troll and want to raise up a bit. However, you can also use snap weights for mid depth trolling, say down 10-12 feet over a 15 foot breakline, in this case a spinnerbait could be good. I've actualy done quite well over the years on spinnerbaits for walleyes fished at that depth and situation, although just casting and counting down, not use snap weights. As for jerk baits, they work extremely well but I never use deep divers, just regular floating raps. the lure will be a bit deeper than the snap weight and you want to 'know' where you bait is, so a deep diver would be that much harder to control depth wise and snags would be more of an issue. If you want to go deeper, just lower the snap weight and use a heavier weight. Once you use them you will love them. Just being so easy to clip on, moving from using a shallow diving rap above the weedline, to putting on a snap weight and fishing down 15 feet, to moving even deeper to 30-35 feet for lakers. All using the same lure and not re-tying. BTW, I would start your laker hunt no deeper than 35 feet. It really helps if you have a finder, but try that depth where a point or reef comes up from deeper water. I catch lots of lakers at that depth in summer. Sometimes though they are deeper, so don't be afraid to experiment. Good luck.

Moonman.
  
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Old Salt
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Re: Snap Weight Rigging
Reply #5 - Jun 21st, 2012 at 2:41pm
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To try to answer your questions: I've got an Eagle Cuda depth finder mounted in my canoe. The head is Ram mounted to the thwart in front of my stern seat. The battery pack is in a thwart bag hanging from same thwart. The transducer is silicone mounted under the bow seat. Wiring is run under the gunnel held with zip ties and clips. Easy system to install, and at the portage, all I have to do is turn it off, and rotate the head. The primary advantage this provides is that I can find and follow contours, staying in productive areas easier. I'm sure you'll find fish without one, I just think you'll find more fish with one.

I've never used spinnerbaits with this system, so...

I use this system two ways. One is to contact sspended fish over deep water (lakers). The other is to use it like a bottom bouncer in 15-25' of water. I think the sinker banging rocks invite waldos to dinner.

Also, as a correction to my original post, I meant 'banana weights' instead of 'teardrop sinkers'. I think either will work, but the banana style has less drag.
  
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Snow_Dog
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Re: Snap Weight Rigging
Reply #6 - Jun 21st, 2012 at 3:21pm
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With superlines, I wrap the line once around one side of the pad of the snap weight (so the line goes thru the pinch-pad twice) to keep the weight from sliding around due to the slipperiness of the superlines.
  
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