after another 20 minutes of hold and no answer and another failed attempt to purchase it, my mother-in-law, the saint that she is, told me to try her credit card... worked flawlessly, must be some issue with the debit card/exchange rates or something.

it worked now

you can just go buy one in Atikokan at Canoe Canada outfitters (they open early, well before the park office opens at 8:30), or Voyageur Bait and Tackle, or at any of the outfitters along the way, at the Mine Centre Store etc.

could be a debit card won't work online - that happens often enough

Cool! In that case, can anyone recommend a decent tavern in Fort Frances to stretch my legs at before the final push? Someplace on the way near that bait shop before that scary bridge would be nice.