[size=12]Kerry, it's not high-tech but I have some electrician's tape plastic discs with lids that I scavenged out of my carpentry toolboxes. I can place 3 or 4 jig spinners in there (1/4oz jigs with #2 colorado blades if I remember correctly). 4 or 5 dollars at my local hardware store and I get the electrican's tape thrown in! Probably can get them cheaper at a larger retail hardware store or retailer, Another option that I have is a CD case that I picked up for a buck at a local dollar store. The inner sleeves work well enough to slip several jig spinners in. There are probably many better options out there but it works for my budget

My tacklebox is actually a bigger version of this idea that I bought from BWJ years ago but they no longer offer/make.

I like the versatily/packability of a "soft" tackle box for all my lures.

If I was looking for a replacement for my beloved tackle pack, I'd look at this item.

My pack has an adjustable shoulder strap that has a snap buckle in the center. Great for lashing in canoe or on canoe pack.

I'd make one if I bought this pack.

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TomT wrote on Jan 23^rd, 2014 at 3:42pm:
I'm pleased enough with my tackle storage system which is comprised of individual tray boxes layered in a fanny pack. BUT those pike leaders are somehow always a hassle. Last year I used zip lock bags, but this circle box idea is nice.  up

I use a little trick an old fishing guy showed me.

Take your pike leader and make a loop on one end and wrap the line around the loop until you end up with a small circle. Wrapping leader over/around loop, keeps it from unraveling. Do it right, you can snap swivel end to line end. Nothing to snag if you use a flat pouch or even keep a rig in shirt pocket.

Electricians tape box is a clever idea too.

By all means, Ranger, let's see a pic.

That's genius what you did to the tray to accomodate the spinners.  I could never do that though and give up space for the crankbaits that I take.  You exhibit much discipline by limiting what you bring. I'm too much of a fake minnow guy and need a few from each presentation ie: surface, medium, and deep runners.

I am a recovering tackle addict.  I've been tripping since the 1980's and cutting back my fishing tackle has proven to be the toughest challenge for me.  Every year I narrow it down a little more.  I used to take a big double sided plastic box but these days it's a small plano and small foot long duffel for misc. gear.  If it don't fit I can't take it.

*This policy could change if the focus for my trip is fishing.

If fishing is your focus on a canoe trip then a variety of tackle is certainly helpful. I found that out this past summer as I had one outfit and 1 style of lure......that being large deep running cranks (after all it was August). But fishing was not my focus but rather good old fashioned survival. No regrets.........

The problem I see in fishing jig spinners or spinnerbaits in deep water, especially if your intention is to lift and drop and sort of "jig" them is the distinct possibility of missing most bites. They will likely hit it on the drop and with the blades the drop will be slow.........I see them nailing it and spitting it out without being detected, especially in deep water. The exception would be the spinners that are mounted underneath the jig, these act a bit more like an ordinary jig IMO but with the added advantage of a bit of flash......plus the blade style is usually a willow leaf which allows for a bit more streamlined drop. Braid would be helpful in deepwater jigging applications and help you feel that tick......be quick on the draw and your line would get tight.

Puckster wrote on Feb 4^th, 2014 at 9:34pm:


Prouboy, my tackle pack was once offered thru the BWJ store. I guess it wasn't a big seller because they no longer carry it.

It's a little different than the item from Cabelas, but pretty close. When it's unsnapped it lays flat and you turn the "pages" to find what you need. Some pages have single compartments, others have 2 smaller ones. All close with a zipper.

It has an adjustable shoulder strap that you can unsnap and wrap around thwart so you can't lose it if you dump.

It's not as hard as you think to carry stick baits/jigs as you would think, although I do things a little different than many.

All my stick baits only have the rear treble hook. I use Cabelas hook bonnets to keep them from tangling/ snagging vinyl pocket face but like those NeverSnag hooks even better.
Jig heads I put in small plastic bags or 35 film can.
I take way more than I need so with any planning you can easily set one up for the type of fish you might encounter.
My pockets are sewn on, I believe the ones on the Cabelas bag are removable which would make it easy to add/subtract for different trips.

It's very quite laying on the floor of canoe as I paddle. I set it on a small foam pad I use for sitting in camp. Out of bilge water, easily accessed and because the pockets zip close, you don't have to worry about accidentally dumping them like you can with a hard plastic box if your not careful.

I do think that set-up is worth a look see.
I see more and more tackle accessory companies making soft-bags, so maybe BWJ was just ahead of their time.

If I get a chance I'll take a few pics of my tackle pack and post on my Photobucket site.

ST -- getting to look at a photo of your tackle "bag" would be great.

prouboy

Puckster wrote on Feb 5^th, 2014 at 5:09am:


Here you go p-boy.
The more I see other soft-side tackle bags, the more I wish I would of bought 2 of the BWJ's.

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Quote:


IF your going to do that, might as well go for the "Rolls Royce Silver Cloud" of tackle packs. 

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I think it comes with a "Portage Monkey"
For that price they should offer a "Nubile" option.

The Duluth pack looks to be well constructed and will probably last 2 lifetimes. Plus its made in America by expert craftsmen who are proud of what they do and want to get paid.

There is nothing quite like the orvis pack.......it is the ultimate. Not to big, not to small. The front pouches fit worm binders where you can slide all sorts of hard to store lures and plastics in the zip lock sleeves. The front pouches can also be employed to carry big lures encased in lure wraps. Super shad raps fit and I can usually get 4 or 5 big lures per pouch if pike is my target.

The pouches are fastened together via a buckle while you are traveling so they don't flop around. A front D ring is an ideal place to clip my boga.

There are 2 back compartments. The larger fits 2 plano boxes in descending size. Wire leaders can be stored in a plastic tube of sorts and remain straight as they are stood upright in the back of the pack.

There is also a waterproof pocket.......nice added touch for permits etc.

The back of the pack also has webbing. This is where I store my collapsible aluminum net (made in finland where people know fish  ).........very handy to net walleyes.

If fishing is your thing and you carry a fair amount of gear then this pack is tops. Slap it on while you carry your boat........perfect!

Au contrair' (thats french) on the Cabelas pack........

Shall I be nitpicky? Ahem.......what is so great about the Orvis pack is the front pouches balance everything out so perfectly. I have weight off the rear and the front.......nothing to throw me off balance while I portage the already unbalanced boat. I absolutely loathe falling while in the woods and take pride in my ability to have a reasonable pace while rarely biting the dust. The Cabelas pack looks sort of big and clunky and heavy as well.........but I could be mistaken.

-stuff made in China is cancer.   (live by the sword,   die by the sword...)

Puckster wrote on Feb 7^th, 2014 at 12:10am:


What are you thinking  .

The thing looks huge......."hey gang, I can take everyones fishing stuff" 

If any of you are fans of the HILDEBRANDT
brand spinners, I found a source that carries the complete line.
I ordered a bunch of the safety spinner jigs, and some single/double Idaho spinners. A few June Bug one's as well. Good quality, decent price.

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solotripper wrote on Feb 27^th, 2014 at 2:20pm:


Hey ST -- are the prices listed below each lure the price you pay?


prouboy

Puckster wrote on Feb 28^th, 2014 at 1:27am:


p-boy, yes they are. They come in packages of 2.
I believe there was not tax on my Internet order, but they charged a $10 shipping fee, which since it came via the postal service seemed high?

If you can get 3 for a buck that KF thinks are serviceable then you can't beat that.

Betts spinners he linked to look like the HILDEBRANDT Spinners but maybe a little cheaper price wise.

I bought the Hildebrant spinners based on their reputation for quality. I guess you could get similar products from Betts, and decide which is better for the price.

Let's help Prouboy!

Very interesting KF! 

I'll definitely try it.  May even try it down here in Florida, where I'm fishing for sea trout and redfish. 

Thanks for the tip.

prouboy

Quote:


I don't jig for Lakers, but sometimes in warmer weather I'll troll while paddling using a 1 oz Maribou jig sans spinner.

Have done well without much effort on my part.
Now I know that KF who's a serious fishing guy uses jig spinners, I'm going to attach one of those Hildebrant 3.5 blade size jig spinners I just bought to one and see how that works.

While were at it, gold or nickel?

This is my go to rig for walleyes when I am jigging and sometimes even trolling:

#3 Gold Betts jig spinner with a wide gap 1/4 oz jig and dressed with a 4" Kalin's grub either Bright White or Chartreuse Copper
The wide gap hook is important because of the size of the dressing. Hook ups are better with more hook exposed.

It's important to remember that this rig must be kept moving to take advantage of the flash of the blade except when in current and that's where they really shine (pun intended).

A deadly technique is to cast out as far as possible and let the jig spinner sink and then reel it in only fast enough to just tick bottom occasionally, called slow rolling. Especially good in pools below rapids and falls.

solotripper wrote on Mar 5^th, 2014 at 2:34pm:

I've definitely had more success with gold blades than silver but when it comes to the dressing color is not super important. I'm sure if you use this rig some you will find your own favorites. If you already have 3",4", or even 5" grubs use what you have. Make sure though that with the 4" and 5" grubs you use the wide gap hooks or you will lose alot of fish.

Kerry you are a bad influence on me. My therapist thinks I should drop you and is still trying to convince me that the purchase of fishing equipment that I am to busy to use is not conducive to happiness in life. I'm considering a new therapist 

You talked me into the Kahara jig spinners. Made in Japan with very fine wire indeed and ball bearing swivels. Extremely nice set up..........for outsize crappie and 4lb line. The first big toothy predator that comes along is going to straighten the wire and leave a mangled mess.

These are probably quite a bit different. The wire looked thin but if they take reds they are tough stuff for sure but without being the usual extra thick wire most of these kind of baits are made from when fishing the salt.

In other words they look perfect and I will have to drop another $25 on more jig spinners that I probably will use sparingly........"get thee behind me thou foul tempter"........

On the other hand > Good work and thanks for sharing   /hey, the price is not so bad.....2 per pac/

MT, definitely get a new therapist.  However, don't use mine 'cause you and me are in the same boat.  I have my eye on those weedless jigs as well.  I'll probably buy a bunch of stuff from these guys.  Their jig heads look pretty nice and the swim baits and ... Yoiks!  I haven't been at this for more than 5 years and I've already got more stuff I'll never use than I know what to do with.  But hey, it's Made in the USA so I'll be doing somebody's economy some good (though definitely not mine!)

A few thoughts on these products.......

Note the "R" bend on the safety spinners. This means you must tie directly, no snaps or snap swivels as they will be running up the line on occasion and causing the dreaded "hassle". And since this is salt water application that means thicker, beefier wire. Which in turn means using a thicker mono or some sort of braid.

Remember that when using mono it likes to tie to things of similar diameter or smaller. So if using mono I'm thinking Minimum 12lb test and feeling even more comfortable with 14lb. Kind of thick line unless your thinking straight fluorocarbon. If you are still desirous of using lighter mono (say 10lb) with a little bit thicker tie off like what might be found on the safety spinners in question >  the tie fast tool ties the gryp knot which absolutely excels in tying mono to larger diameters.

So I say proceed with caution. Get a pack........see how well the connections are made keeping in mind that no snap should be employed. I would venture that at least 10% of your casts will result in the snap in a different place than you want if you decide to employ one.

The in-line is likely equipped with at least a 5/0 hook and that means plenty of muscle and a rod with backbone to drive the weedless rig not only through the plastic lure but into the fishes boney mouth. Braid would be helpful and so would a bait caster as the whole set up is likely to be a bit weighty and tiring to use with a spinning set-up IMO. But it looks like a winner to me with a big fat swim bait and the right rod/reel.

The jig heads are a no go for fresh water. The wire is just way overkill. Thick, thick, thick..........There are lots of choices for premium fresh water jig heads. Have you checked out the cobra jigheads? Fairly big wide gap hook........a musky/pike application but in the smaller sizes and a 5" grub behind the spinner jig it just be be a winner on the bigger walleyes. Check them out.......Killer combos.
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I have the feeling that this summer is going to go my way.......but then again I always think that 

Fishing deep in late summer is a given.....or is it? I had always thought so having spent a week for many years on Lake Minitaki by Sioux Lookout Ontario at a fish camp. We caught walleyes as deep as 40ft and often caught bigger ones of up to 8lbs speed trolling 20 down over 40ft of water. But my education continues.........This past summer I fished a lot of 28ft/32ft, fast and with big cranks. It seemed that the majority of fish were shallower and wanted things slower and smaller (as per KF's tendencies). So, I will take a bit more notice of water temps, even in August and try and be more flexible.

As per the jig heads........note the thinner wire on the Cobra jigs. They are a finesse style pike bait and are just fine for bigger walleye. Note that 1/2 ounce is the lightest size but add a 6" reaper or Kalin mugumbo grub and a reasonably slow fall could be achieved and 20ft of water fished well. Add some wind and 3/4oz or more might be needed. These jigs are tops in my book.

Jig heads and their shape........your a smart guy Kerry just consider the physics. Football shaped jigs go through the water with much in the way of variables due to their shape. But set them on the bottom and twitch the rod and they will "roll" back and forth and side to side. Add a plastic crayfish with floating claws and you have a very realistic presentation indeed for smallmouth bass. Then there are the "gliding" style heads. Flat bottoms so they do not tend to plummet straight down but rather glide. Charlie Brewers "slider" jigs do this very nicely and if you are fishing finesse shallow they are exceptional for a slow drop. The cobra jigs are also a slider type jig and with the tapered nose fairly snag resistant especially in weeds and timber (less so in rock). Round is all around (pun intended ) a good choice.

Premium jigs are commonplace these days. Abundant choices are at Bass pro, Cabelas and Tackle warehouse.  It used to be that jigs were super cheap. Not so much anymore as the companies have figured out we are willing to pay for quality (just ask Owner Hook co where hooks can be as high as $2 a piece.) Look for black nickel premium hooks.....some manufactures will also boast about their paint finishes. Paint is less important than you might think......I have caught plenty on unpainted jig heads and a few chips probably is not going to hurt much. I do like that little bit of sheen that a paint gives however.......think about water critters, they usually have that protective slime which gives a little sheen. Am I overthinking? Maybe, maybe not .

My philosophy is basically that little fish will eat big lures more often than big fish will eat little lures. I am not interested in driving 2 days to catch 16" walleyes all day. I can do that at home. So I upsize my baits and generally fish deeper during summer to target bigger fish.......but guess what? I still catch plenty of little guys anyway.

(But Mr Big hit in 15ft last trip so keep an open mind << My internal argument continues  )

Cabela's Fisherman Series Wide Gap Round Jigheads are currently on sale.
1/4 oz.  Reg:$6.19      Sale:$4.49  (qty 10)

Glad to hear the quality's there.  I won't pick up my order until my friend brings it back across the border (shhhh) in May.  He'll also be bringing back a bunch of those good looking jig heads you talked me into (well you didn't exactly talk me into it, all you had to do was show me a picture - oooh, sparkly!)

Why do you put a "limit" at 20 feet?  Is it because deeper would make the drag overly taxing?  If I were to use, say a 1 ½ oz jig head and maybe swap the blade for something slightly smaller, say a 2.5 willow, i should think I could get down quite a bit deeper.  Interested in your experience around this.

Some more thoughts about fishing spin jigs at depth,
(yes I still think about fishing while working even with sports talk radio or political talk radio on in the background)

If I were aiming to fish spin jigs deep I wouldn't opt for the "safety arm" type spinners at all but rather a rig where the spinner was in the rear (underneath) the bait. Like these........note they are available in weights as heavy as 1.5 oz.......plenty good enough to fish deep even in a decent drift. These are btw of excellent quality I have several and can vouch for their effectiveness.

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I am also a fan of these type of heads.......again, excellent quality (scroll up)

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The hooks are terrible but the strikes are productive.

Question on the Su-spins.  What do you use with them -grubs, flukes, paddle tail swim baits?  If swim baits, what size works best for you?

Just went and seen "Heaven is for real"> pretty good.

On the way there I gave some more thought to Kerrys question. One thing to keep in mind Kerry are the paddle tails cause water resistance.......great for action on a drop but not so great if depth is important and your thinking about trolling....or drifting quickly in deeper water.

You could keep it simple and do what KF suggests. Pretty hard to miss with a 3" to 5" white curly tail grub. Bada-bing.......I have a tendency to overthink things, once in a while it does pay off however and I hit it out of the park with some off the wall specialty set up. I don't like fishing other peoples spots and I don't like fishing with what some one else is using. Doing things your own way is a big part of what makes fishing satisfying and challenging IMO.