Do you use them? Any DIY on best way to construct them? Thinking of branching out my walleye arsenal. Stop laughing.

My question is where and how you would use it? It’s mainly a live bait rig. When live bait was outlawed in the Q, it was culled from my tackle. I still use it in other lakes.

I use them every trip on the BW side, tip them with a leech.  Its a handy way for the stern paddler to get some action and locate fish while the bow paddler casts a different kind of bait (say for bass or pike).  I like the rigs that have a spinner blade with beads and a floater ahead of the hook.  Whether they are more effective than plain hook, can't say.

solotripper wrote on Feb 9^th, 2018 at 4:12am:


Thanks! That's handy. I'm sorting through all of the advice and I appreciate everyone's input on this. I have some colorado blades, 8# mono and worm hooks of a certain size as well as flourescent and gold fly-tying beads. I need a few more items to complete the set-up but I figured I would get ideas for several different set-ups. Mostly, I need something to do up until Copia time. 

Lindy Rigging  and Bottom Bouncing are my "GO TO" presentations for walleye in Quetico.

In early spring walleye relate to shallow back bays especially where rivers and creeks come in. I early summer they begin to move to main lake shorelines off shore humps, long flats near deep water and island shorelines.

I like to fish for walleyes over last 2 weeks of June over the 4th of July as walleyes will tend to group in their summer haunts. However, water temps will determine how quickly they migrate to their summer homes.

I use Lindy Rig and Bottom Bouncer setups to FIND walleye then if they are grouped I will JIG them. If they can't be found in a group then stick with a Lindy or Bottom Bouncer setup as you can cover lots of water and catch scattered walleye. Just forward troll in your canoe around 1.5 - 2 mph near rock ledges near deep water basins and you will find fish normally in 10 to 20 ft. of water from mid June through July. Come august when the water warms the most, walleye can be in 30 ft. of water so you will need heavier weights like a 3 oz. Bottom Bouncer or 3/4 to 1 oz. Lindy weight.

I like to pull  4 to 6 inch Gulp/Powerbait worms/ 2 hook harnesses behind 1/2 -3/4 oz. Lindy Rig weights as my 1st choice. If the bottom is very rocky I will go to a 1.5 - 2 oz.  Bottom Bouncer set-up as it is more snag resistant. 

I like to use 10 lb. Trilene XT on my main line. Sometimes I will use 20 lb. Braid. I like to use pre -tied worm 2 hook floating harnesses. I really like a glow Colorado blade setup that Cabelas offered to use in stained water but they don't make them anymore. You can use 3 inch Gulp Killer Crawlers too behind a Slow Death Hook setup too to entice walleyes to bite if they are a bit lethargic.

Just position your Bottom Boucer or Lindy Rif lead weight to angle 45 degrees from the rod tip to water surface for best hook set and bottom control.  The Lindy Weight just drags on the bottom but you want to skim the Bottom Bouncer 6 inches off the bottom for best results.

I like to use a shorter worm harness snell ( 20 inches) if I am stained water as walleyes will normally stick more to the bottom in stained water and a longer (40 inch) snell if I am in clear water as walleye will often be a bit higher off the bottom.

I would just GOOGLE  " BOTTOM BOUNCING and LINDY RIGGING WALLEYE"  and there is a ton of info out there on these 2 methods for catching eyes. I just scratched the surface.