This early warm weather has had me getting anxious to start planning for the upcoming fishing season.

For the past several years I have used a block of closed cell foam with a cutout for my transducer to keep it in position and hold some water to transfer the signal through the hull of my canoe. This worked well, most of the time.  However, sometimes the transducer would dislodge which I would notice right away as my depth reading would start flashing to indicate no signal.  Other times I would notice that my transducer was leaning left or right, but still transmitting fine.  Probably not a huge deal, but I feel that this would cause the depth readings to be off just a bit, depending on the angle.

I decided to take out my foam block cutout and affix something a bit more elegant and precise.  This is what I came up with the aide of my 3D printer. I call it a transducer well.

It will hold a Lowrance HST-WSBL or HST-WSU transducer in place in an upright perpendicular position. Like the previous foam block, I used 100% silicone as an adhesive to install.  Then I just insert the transducer, friction pin, and add a small amount of water.  The transducer will be fixed in place until I remove it. 

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Thanks.  Here is a picture of my previous setup of foam block(s). The white one is what this replaces.  The black one was for a HDI transducer with traditional and downscan, though I found that downscan frequencies do not transmit through a hull like traditional sonar.
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I probably could have solved my intermittent dislodging issues by simply using a taller piece of foam, such as the black one, which would cradle the front fin of the transducer, keeping it upright.  The other issue I had with the foam is that I found that silicone does not adhere well to closed cell foam and through the flex produced by inserting and removing the transducer multiple times over the years, I lost the water tight seal this vessel was meant to provide.  It still worked though as it's position under the stern seat is where water naturally collects, so there is typically a small puddle there anyway.  The four holes in the foam around the transducer cutout were filled with silicone and that is what actually held the foam to the canoe long term.   I found the foam peeled away easily from the silicone, but it took a bit of effort to remove the silicone from the canoe. 

The transducer well has a groove designed into the base to act as a gasket and add surface area for silicone adhesion.  So far it feels really solid and since there is no flex or movement, I expect it hold up and perform well.

Your method looks like it would work quite well as long as there is no air gaps between the container and the hull.

I have seen/heard of many methods used accomplish a temporary thru hull transducer setup and they all really only differ in the type of container used to hold some water to transfer the signal.  Plumbers putty, Ziplocs, foam cutouts, food containers....lots of vessels doing the same thing. 

I haven't really created something new, just maybe my version or take on it.  The use of a 3D printer opens up more possibilities and instead of repurposing something to make it fit my needs, I can design something how I feel it should be.  This transducer well will only work with the two specific Lowrance transducers mentioned as it is designed around their specific shape and uses the bracket mounting hole for secure attachment.

Those downspouts are for rod protection I assume?  Do you just use a short section to protect the rod tip or are they longer?  Great idea and lightweight too.

ST, I've used pile insulation foam for rod holders.