Quetico Solo
June 11 - July 2, 2003
Photos and text by Doug Clark

Day 1 - Wednesday
Got up about 2:30 and packed cooler food and last misc. stuff. After a shower I hit the road about 4 am. I was so excited that I THOUGHT I had driven past the exit for Nym and turned around. Of course I hadn't... it is well marked. Oh well. No problem with the parking, unload, canoe prep. Pushed off about 5 am - just in time for the sunrise. Ahhhh..... The feeling that comes with pushing the canoe away from the dock

and taking that first stroke. The release from thinking that something will prevent the trip from becoming real. The end of second guessing what I have chosen in a hurry to bring... and what not to. Those concerns slip away. Paddle across Nym no problem, other than the usual wonderings about which islands to paddle between. LOL. The load seems to be pretty well balanced -- a little front heavy. I had debated trying to cram everything into one pack... hoping for the double portage. That debate lasted about 30 seconds.... I am triple portaging. I will be eating my share of fish dinners, but it still takes alot of food for 3 weeks. At least with the triple portage the load is manageable, even at the start, and I am able to drag along some luxury items as well. Paranoid about the bears on that first portage, I took the food pack about half way and then stashed it out in the woods. Took the gear pack beyond that, and then back for the canoe. At least I won't be leaving the food pack unattended for long, and it will not sit at the beginning or end of the portage at all.

Met a pair of guys from Indiana bound for Walter/Draper/Lonely. They offered a hand as the canoe came off my shoulders. Thank you. We shared the excitement of the first day, and they were off. I finished retrieving the packs, and decided to set up for trolling before I pushed off. Just a little chop on the water as the sun makes its way over the trees. A beautiful first sunrise. I am on schedule and pretty much rested. Would it be too much to ask for a trout? NOT... It didn't take long. And then again. I paddled a strong stroke for most of the journey down Batch, with occasional breaks at nice looking spots to slow down, relax, and troll for a bit. Catch a fish. Laugh out loud. Back to paddling. Coming through one of the pinches I saw a bear working a stretch of shoreline and was able to maneuver into a position where I could watch in relative obscurity. I admired his/her thoroughness, and am reminded that they do not have to go out of their way to find our campsites. We camp right next to the highway... I imagine we're kind of like a Gas and Shop for them. LOL. After a minute he nosed me out and disappeared.

Took a lunch break at the pinch into Pickeral. Leftover snacks from the drive up washed down with day old McDonald's strength coffee. What a pretty area. I try to imagine what it would be like without such hard use. Chatted with a father/son combo from Menominee, WI. who were heading toward Mosquito point. The elder had spent time in Lincoln years ago, and I also had lived in Milwaukee. Small world. They said the walleye bite was on the shy side. I had noticed the mayfly hatch and wondered if that could be a factor. On to the Narrows. Paddle/Fish/Enjoy. Wind in my face now, but not ugly. SLAM. Nice laker, and great battle. I was concerned they would already be deep, but these have not been, and they have sure been battling hard. A quick pic, and back in the water. Straight down. Good for you. An eagle has been pacing me... sometimes he seems to be taunting. He is not oblivious to the fish action, and drops back to eyeball the situation. Eventually he realized there would be no shore lunch for him and went on about his day.

Chatted with a man from Minneapolis at a campsite along the way. Said the other half of their group was out on a fishing day trip. I'd planned on stopping for the first night toward the end of the Narrows, but here already was Pine Portage Bay. Another canoe coming over the hop portage. No gear. Day trippers... Yes, the other group from Minneapolis. They have been having a great trip. Wind picking up from the southeast now. Trolled across the bay, and as I passed the half-way point I hear a cadence call from behind -- power paddlers-- Sure enough, it is a pair of rangers, and they will be seeing my permits at the landing. I pulled in the trolling rig, and decided to try to catch them before the portage. Surprised myself by almost doing it. Really nice young man and woman. They smiled at the canoe modifications I had made and soon left me alone with my mess... I really hadn't planned on portaging again today. Packed up the fishing stuff and headed off. Met another

group coming out of Dore' but didn't stop to chat. One said in passing that they had been kicking smallies on crank baits. And still no bear sign. Good. My campsite of choice was in use, so I stopped at the island by the pictographs. UGH. Leave that one off the list. I've nicknamed it butt-wipe island. Enough said. Also left behind were several restaurant size plastic bottles with the last of the peanut butter, syrup, etc. Camp set-up went smoothly. One of my pretrip concerns had been the plan for hanging the food pack by myself. Decided to go with one double and one single pulley. I coughed up the extra for a 75' length of quality rope from a climbing shop. I'm impressed with the ease the pack went up. Should have done this a long time ago. And I think it will be strong enough that if a bear makes a successful launch onto it, I should have enough time to get out of the tent for a photo op before it all comes down. LOL. On to a dinner of Famous Dave's BBQ slathered over a couple of hoagies. Yum. Not sure if it was the right call, but I stoked up a white man fire and burned the bottles with food remains left by the previous group. Got the clock out for the first time. 8 pm. Off to a great start. Did a little maintenance and enjoyed a toddy by the evening fire. I slipped (literally) down to the shore to appreciate the dark sky. Full moon soon. Asleep by 11.