Quetico Solo
June 11 - July 2, 2003
Photos and text by Doug Clark
Up
early again today. It was still spitting, but that didn't last. The stove handled
the oatmeal while I did the tent. Left camp at about 6:30. A breeze already
picking up from the west. Met 2 guys from Green Bay at the end of my first pass
over the Deux Rivieres portage. They were just landing so I grabbed a couple
of rods and net to take over for them. I met them again as I was on the way
back with the canoe. I took the canoe about halfway and then went back for the
other pack.... and here they came with it. WOW. Those cheeseheads. So, my first
portage of the day is a double. Thanks again guys. We shared stories on the
way back over, which also gave me a boost on the canoe carry. Twin Lakes. Next
time it will be high on the list of 1st nite sites. As I come through the pinch,
a Loon is nervous but not giving ground. The nest must be close. A course change
of a few yards, and it seemed to relax. Deux Rivieres approaches. It's been
dry and the showers of yesterday won't have raised the water levels.
I
wonder how deep I will sink in. Well, I knew there had to be some advantages
to a large canoe for a solo trip, and here came the first. Less body weight
in the canoe. Less pack weight. I was drafting so little that I could cruise
the shallow sections without getting out to wade and pull. I smoked that puppy.
I think the beaver was having a tough morning, or maybe he got up on the wrong
side of the dam... stayed about 20' in front of me for most of the journey with
the occasional tail thwack. I am in one of the narrow sections when he turned
and came straight at me. My neck hairs got an immediate stiffy. Now I know it
was less than a foot deep there, and he made it under the canoe -- almost. Clunked
the underside of the canoe pretty hard. Wow.
As
I neared the end of the run, I began to hear voices with a distinct drawl. 6
canoes of southerners are having an especially good time. (No, I didn't ask
if they'd had a couple of pulls from the jug for breakfast). I don't think the
journey up Deux Rivieres was going to be quite as easy for them, as several
in the group were in the 300 lb+ range. I hope the beaver is back in good spirits
before they reach him, because he sure won't be swimming under those canoes...
At least he'll hear them coming.
As
soon as I made the turn south toward Sturgeon Narrows it was mostly behind me.
I stuck to the west shoreline and did some trolling past Blueberry Island. No
strikes until an eater size walleye just before the Narrows. Ahhh.... Dinner.
I stopped to clean and ziploc, and when I got back on the water, the wind was
on the rise. Talked briefly with a couple of guys from LaCrosse taking a break
as I made the turn toward Russell. I gave some thought to how the canoe would
handle the combination
of
strong tailwind and opposing current in one of the areas I will soon be passing
through. It should be ok, but not much experience with this new canoe setup.
Took it to the inside of the bend, and with the water levels down there was
no need for concern. The run down Russell with the 3/4 tailwind was too easy
(May I remember this). Found one of my favorite sites not in use, so I pulled
in. Camp up and flying early afternoon except for the fire pit.
The
previous campers must have had stormy weather, and moved the fire pit down near
the tent area... too near the tent for me. Paid some sweat dues moving the stones
to rebuild it in the old area. By the time I finished, I was trying to stay
downwind from myself... Bath. Laundry. While that was drying I got out a lighter
rod, tied on a jig, and tipped it with a preserved minnow.
It
survived the first cast, but not the second. The walleye in the ziploc is about
to have company. Combined the cleaning with a firewood run. Now I can truly
have a feast for my first fish meal, and with the addition of some hashbrowns,
that's exactly what I did. I could hardly wait for the first piece to cool off
before wolfing it. And they kept coming. Difficult to get up to do the dishes.
It was even harder to get up after the toddy down on the point. And the day
was over too soon. Fell asleep to the sound of loons, Chatterton Falls, and
the sight of a beautiful full moon.