Quetico Solo
June 11 - July 2, 2003
Photos and text by Doug Clark

Post game
Here I sit at a hotel in Brookings. Should make it home tomorrow afternoon barring problems. I'm surprised how sore I am. Mostly from the shoulders to the fingers. I'm honestly having trouble holding the pen. The fingers are falling asleep after a couple of lines. Whoa. I've got a pinched nerve in the neck that I aggravated a week before this whole adventure started. It was wishful thinking to hope that the trip would help it heal. It's going to take a couple of trips to the chiropractor. The rest of the body has toughened up some during these weeks. Was really surprised when I caught the first glimpse in the mirror. Will have to weigh myself the next time I pass by the scales. I ate like a pig, and it looks like I dropped about 10 lbs.

And I can't believe it went so fast. I thought maybe 3 weeks would be a bit much, and the time would drag toward the end. Not the case. I think it was early on day 3 that I started to feel "in sync"... Don't know how to explain that feeling. I guess it is a combination of things... The issues of "normal" life are still present, but occupy a different place inside me. I still thought about family, friends, home, work... but the stress that is usually associated with those thoughts was gone for the most part. It also takes the body some time to remember the rhythms of the paddle and the saw. The sights and sounds and smells of Quetico never become routine for me, but it takes a couple of days in the park before they become "normal" and begin to speak to me.

I'm a little surprised that I was such a morning person, but if I'd have thought about that more before starting it would have been logical -- no one to enjoy the evening fires with. Dinner was usually happening around 6 pm, and only a couple after dark. I went through one set of batteries for the headlight. Wow. Usually would go through 2 sets in a week. I really enjoyed the pre-dawn through early morning hours of the day. My comfort zone was to travel early to avoid the winds, and was on the water by 7 for most of the travel days. Casual travel. Fish on the way, and be at the next camp by mid-afternoon. Get camp set up and still have some good fish time before or after dinner. Spend the next day there and then do some prepacking that evening for traveling the next day. I enjoyed this pace of travel/relaxing. The negative of that pace was that it was kind of a "tweener" for setting up a camp. Not long enough to put up a base camp, but still wanting to have the luxuries.

I had some of the best walleye fishing I have experienced in the park. Smallmouth and lake trout fishing were also good, but more along the lines of what I was expecting. Some lures sacrificed to the northerns and rocks. Ran a little low on 1/8 oz. jig heads, but not a real problem.

The spirit that is Quetico held me close. It spoke to me through the quiet voices of the wilderness and water (well, not all were quiet). Being solo, there were less distractions, and it was easier to listen. Each trip has its "lessons". How can these lessons extend to my "REAL" life? In that way, perhaps I will not miss the park so much, because it will be with me.

Portages...
Are these only the path to the next lake? Are they not every bit as much the adventure as the water between them. It was early in the trip and I was on a difficult portage. I found myself thinking that there was some kind of "intent" to this nastiness as I was grinding my teeth (and knees) trying to force myself up the next step on a steep slope. When I realized what I was thinking I had to struggle to hold the canoe up until I found a couple of friendly trees to jam it between while I crumbled to the ground in laughter. There were very few moments wasted in frustration after that.

In REAL life, portages will represent the things I am not looking forward to doing. These are also a part of the journey.

Wind in your face...
Another obstacle. Perhaps. Perhaps the wind that I am paddling hard to overcome is behind you, making your stroke lighter. The same gust that blows my hat off may, a few minutes from now, blow a mosquito away from your face as you sit on a point 10 miles from here.

In REAL life, I will remember that something which makes it difficult for me, may make it easier for you.

Saw stress...
I notice that I tend to get into a 'body lock" position when sawing, and the shoulders really tense up. This trip I tried to develop "Zen sawing". I found 2 things to concentrate on. First, to have the log in a stable place so I didn't have to hold it with a spare hand or foot. Second, before I made a push with the blade, I tried to relax the shoulders. I found that if the shoulders were relaxed, the rest of the body followed.

In REAL life, I will remember the shoulders. I guess I am not always aware of things that cause stress. I think I need an alarm to go off every 15 minutes to remind me to take a reading on the shoulders... If they are not in a relaxed way, it's time for Zen sawing.

Packed to the limit...
I ruled out double portaging on this trip, and that opened up alot of possibilities for luxury items to bring. And if I was going to take 2 packs, then I was damn sure going to fill them up. I drew the line at keeping one hand free on portages.

In REAL life, I will not pack to the limit. Keep space open, even though I am tempted to "pack" one more thing in.

Importance of rest...
I can get away with 5 hours of nightly sleep on a 1 week trip, but this was pushing it, and I'm sure that contributed to the mental fatigue and the toll on the body.

In REAL life, I will try to keep a better balance. I will not try to stay up for the "northern lights" and then get up for "dawn smallies". I will let go of the fear of missing something.

Courtesy...
I was blessed with people along the journey who showed courtesy. Help with packs, and the canoe, and taking time for conversation.

In REAL life, if I don't have time for courtesy, I'm moving too fast.

The campsite rush...
I had hopes of spending my first night at a familiar site. I wondered if that group coming up behind me would get there before me. "If I can get over the portage before they do, I'll be sure to get it". Hmmmm.... that attitude doesn't fit. Stop racing. They were Rangers and had no intention of stopping so early in the day. They were almost out of sight when I reached the campsite... only to find it occupied. LOL Later that evening I sat on the shore and enjoyed a toddy as I watched the glow of the campfire coming from across the lake

In REAL life, the grass may be greener on the other side... I will enjoy the view.

Loneliness...
I was lonely at times. Especially around the evening campfire. One day I thought about moving up to the front of the canoe for awhile to take a break from myself. Yes, I spent alot of time laughing at... to... and with... myself.

In REAL life, I will still be alone in the crowd. LOL

Music...
I listened. I sang. I wrote. If I have the opportunity for another longish solo I will certainly bring a pocket tape recorder. Some good material was lost... at least it was left there.

In REAL life, I will not lose the spirit to write.

Costs...
My body is still sore. That too will pass, and I will begin to forget the costs of this adventure. But it is paying the cost that gives the adventure value. One of the reasons for the journal is to remember the costs... not only the good days of fishing, the meals that turn out perfectly, and a stack of welcome wood. But also the times of struggle... the physical and mental fatigue, the aches and pains. This fee is gladly paid.

In REAL life, I will remember that value costs. I will try to pay the cost with a smile on my face. I will remember that others will not find the value if I pay the cost for them.

Spending time...
The thing that made this trip different was time. It was a great gift. By having the time not to have to rush, I was able to let loose of trying to control the pace. I did not have to be at Lake B by the end of day 2 for things to be going well. What does Lake B offer that is really important to me that Lake A does not have? The most important goal was to appreciate each minute, and spend it in a way that would bring the biggest smile when I look back on it.

In REAL life, I will remember that time is the gift. How to spend it in the best way? That choice is the responsibility.

And if you have found your way to this ending, then I thank you for choosing to spend this time with me.

I can't believe it's over.

I can't wait to go back.

Doug Clark