I'll have to double check the directions, but it seems like some of the lanterns I've purchased recently allow the use of plain gasoline vs. white gas.

starwatcher

Coleman makes it's own super fuel- runs about $5-6/ quart, main advantage is that the volume is closer to what you might need on a trip. I've had good luck with the regular Coleman fuel in my MSR stove with the exception of a very cold late fall trip- where a waxy deposition clogged my intake filter on the pump. I transport the pump inside the fuel bottle I'm using, seems like a good way to keep it clean.

I've always used the Coleman stove fuel in the gallon metal can.
I'm on the same 20+ year old Coleman Peak 1 multi-fuel stove and have never had a fuel problem.

I do use a fine mesh fuel filter when filling stove, and you should take in consideration how old your fuel is and where you live IF your filling from a metal can?

I live in MI, so condensation in metal fuel cans is a issue. Never store your metal fuel can on a concrete surface as you'll get condensation in the fuel eventually. Keep it on a shelf, or switch to plastic fuel cans.
I've used fuel that has been in storage for at least a couple of years, never a problem. I do add a few drops of fuel stabilizer to can if it's sitting in the outdoor shed over the winter, especially if it's in the gallon metal can.

Coleman also makes a Premium stove fuel that comes in a red plastic bottle. Quart/litter size? More expensive than the stuff in the can, BUT it is it's own fuel bottle, so you don't have to use other fuel cans to carry it, only one to attach to your particular stove of choice.

I think dd is right. I believe most contaminates come from the filling/fueling process, not from the original source. A little fine mesh lined fuel filter will take care of that.

Another good idea is to add a few drops/ cap full of auto carb cleaner to say a 1/4 bottle of fuel and let the stove run until it's empty. Do it before your first trip and maybe after your last one. Will clean out the sludge and keep your stove running great

Well I don't have a fancy new stove, my stove is an old Optimus Primus stove that I've used for 25+ years.  I've never replaced anything on it and there is very little to clean.  It has it's limitations, but what a great piece of equipment. 

That being said, the only fuel I've every used in it is Coleman White Gas.  The last time i bought fuel, I did buy the premium Coleman Fuel only becase I use so little of it.  I just didn't want that much extra fuel sitting around.

Quote:


Must be my day for respectfully disagreeing
I worked building/piping gas stations for about 5 years after I got out of the Army. I also set and removed gas pumps and took them in to be re-conditioned and re-sold.

We serviced Mobil/ Texaco/Shell/ among others and also many independent dealers who bought their gas from the big boys wherever they could get their best price.

I can tell you as a fact, that depending on the additives, the internal plumbing of the gas pumps, and in turn your carb/fuel injectors can be significantly affected with buildup that will effect fuel economy/ fuel filter life and overall performance.

I don't know what the " cleanest" fuel is nowadays, but then, Texaco had the best gas period. You open up the vital of a gas pump, and it was a clean as could be, others would have varnish/sludge deposits that we would use a carb/injector type cleaner to clean when we re-conditioned them.

Another thing is that on a 20 thousand gallon underground fuel tank, especially metal, you would easily get 500 gallons of water from condensation from tank and gas lines running to gas islands. We regularly serviced gas stations and pumped the water out keeping it below the suction line that is about 6" or so off the bottom of tank for this reason. If you ever read about or had water in your gas from service station, it's becasue they didn't check and keep the water below that line. Tandem gas delivery trucks especially in cold climates will have significant water in them due to condensation which ends up in the underground storage tanks.

I if you've ever seen guys with the long wooden " ruler" checking the fuel level in the tanks, you might not be aware they put a gel on the end of stick that turns purple ( at least back then), which tell the operator that the water is getting high enouhg it needs to be pumped out.

You also get particulates in the gas from various sources. On your car, the in-line fuel filter deals with it. Ever cut into a old fuel filter? You'd be amazed what you might find. Cleaner the filter, better the quality of gas your using.

Depending on your stove, fuel quality may or may not be a problem. I guess experience will tell you if your stove runs well on the cheap stuff, but why find out the hard way, when a little TLC will eliminate all doubts

I'm guessing on the newer " hi-tech" stoves that wring the most BTU'S out of the smallest amount of fuel, the purity of your fuel choice can make or break your cooking experience.

Adding some carb cleaner as I recommended may not make a difference in your stove of choice, but it won't hurt it either. Stoves are like people who gradually get out of shape. You don't even realize how your performance is affected until you go up against a " fit" model

As a chemical engineer with 35 years experience in the oil & gas business (including some refinery design), I am quite comfortable with my knowledge of gasoline chemistry.

All liquid fuels can get contaminated, with dirt, condensation, whatever. Camp stove fuel filters are light and cheap, and are a good idea regardless of which fuel you choose.

Still, the fuel requirements of a camp stove are not even close to those of an internal combustion engine, even one in a brand new 10-year old Pontiac. Camp stove fuel gets squeezed through a little hole (an easily cleanable hole) and burns at atmospheric conditions. That's all there is to it. There is no rocket science involved, no fancy fuel specs to meet, just the opportunity for someone to get you to part with your dollars faster than you would otherwise. (Sort of like selling tap water in plastic bottles - some people will pay for it).

A while ago, db suggested two litres (or so) would be enough for a two week trip. If you take two trips a year, and save $5 per quart by buying regular unleaded, then you can buy a new stove every five years with the savings. But of course your mileage may vary.

Correct me if I missed that someone might have mention the differences between regular unleaded gas and white gas. The biggest difference becomes apparent in really cold weather I'm talking about -0 and below, regular gas will tend to gels up more at these extreme temps then white gas.  I learned this the hard way while winter camping a few years back, coleman stove wouldn't light, chain saw wouldn't start bought fuel and chain saw had to be pre-warmed up in order to operate correctly. Don't ask me why I like camping out in that extreme low temps (record low of -37), fire starters won't even burn at that temp. I will only use white gas in my coleman stove and a little in the chain saw during winter camping trips.

Happy camping

//Windsailor

db wrote on Mar 30^th, 2011 at 6:22am:



It depends on what your cooking.

I had some trouble in cold weather with a White Gas stove. My local outfitter told me there's a bit of paraffin blended into the gas as a stabilizer. Said Mountainers regularly refrigerate their gas and strain out the paraffin with a coffee filter before cold weather camping trips.
Also said I could put my fuel bottle in my sleeping bag with me to keep it warm.

I haven't tried either yet. 2nd hand knowledge to me, but I thought interesting.

You make a lot of sence Mr W.
I always buy fresh gas before I go into the woods and it still won't start if its really cold -10 or lower; mined you M&M I only used a small portion of white gas along with mostly gas and oil mix, didn't seem to cause any long term damage though.

//Windsailor

I use coleman fuel in the gallon tin. I would suggest that many  of the problems folks run into come from contamination, dirt and what not that gets into the fuel tank. These things will happen, the thing to do is be familiar with how to work on your stove. Maybe carry some spare parts for field repairs and of course the tools that will fit your stove. Kind of a neat independent feeling "by dab, I can fix that!"
Best Wishes, Rob